Clutch Rod Problems
Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 1,060
Likes: 19
From: Ocean Springs, MS
St. Jude Donor '07
Clutch Rod Problems
In restoring my '64 convertible I decided to store the original #s matching engine and PG transmission and install a built 327 and Muncie 4spd. I bought a set of pedals from a forum member who said it was for a '64. I ordered the '64 clutch rods from Paragon but the clutch will not release.
The '64 clutch pedal rod is 18" and they offer another rod that is 19.25" long for 66-67 models. They also offer different bellcrank rods but do not list the measurements.
I am inlined to think the pedal assembly I bought may actually be from a later year. Should I just order the rods for the 66-67 BB applications?
What are your thoughts?
Gordon
The '64 clutch pedal rod is 18" and they offer another rod that is 19.25" long for 66-67 models. They also offer different bellcrank rods but do not list the measurements.
I am inlined to think the pedal assembly I bought may actually be from a later year. Should I just order the rods for the 66-67 BB applications?
What are your thoughts?
Gordon
Melting Slicks
Joined: Oct 2001
Posts: 2,740
Likes: 4
From: Marblehead MA
I had a similar problem many years ago. What I did was to remove the rod from the "Z" to the throw out bearing connection. Then went to the hardware store and bought a section of threaded rod (same size). Then I installed it through the "Z" end with ample amount left over, then attached it to the throw out pivot arm. This allowed me to "adjust" for proper length. Once that was determined, I cut the rod, then removed it for measurement and ordered the "correct" rod I needed.... 
Warning: do not use the rod from the hardware store.... it was for measurement and adjustment purposes only...... it will break quite easily...... ask me how I know..... 
Good Luck..... 
Warning: do not use the rod from the hardware store.... it was for measurement and adjustment purposes only...... it will break quite easily...... ask me how I know..... Good Luck.....
Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 1,060
Likes: 19
From: Ocean Springs, MS
St. Jude Donor '07
Thanks for the quick reply. I have been ignoring this problem while I work on other areas of the car but I would like to get it resolved. Was the rod from the hardware store sturdy enough to disengage the clutch? And, did you just replace the clutch pedal rod and not the bellcrank rod?
Team Owner
Joined: Mar 2003
Posts: 26,118
Likes: 1,874
From: Greenville, Indiana
Originally Posted by 64roadster
Thanks for the quick reply. I have been ignoring this problem while I work on other areas of the car but I would like to get it resolved. Was the rod from the hardware store sturdy enough to disengage the clutch? And, did you just replace the clutch pedal rod and not the bellcrank rod?
It's not clear how you're determining the clutch is not releasing. Can you get the proper free play adjustment? Is there any chance your cluctch disc is stuck to the flywheel?
Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 1,060
Likes: 19
From: Ocean Springs, MS
St. Jude Donor '07
This is all new hardware. It is obvious that when I depress the clutch pedal there just isn't enough travel to release the clutch. I admit, I have not tried putting the car into gear with the engine running.
I am not new to 4spd, I also have '68 Z28... hmmm, maybe I'll measure the Z28's rod to see if it is longer than 18".
I am not new to 4spd, I also have '68 Z28... hmmm, maybe I'll measure the Z28's rod to see if it is longer than 18".
Melting Slicks
Joined: Oct 2001
Posts: 2,740
Likes: 4
From: Marblehead MA
Originally Posted by 64roadster
Thanks for the quick reply. I have been ignoring this problem while I work on other areas of the car but I would like to get it resolved. Was the rod from the hardware store sturdy enough to disengage the clutch? And, did you just replace the clutch pedal rod and not the bellcrank rod?
and he came up short..... Again, do not use the hardware rod as a substitute, it won't stand up....
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Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 1,060
Likes: 19
From: Ocean Springs, MS
St. Jude Donor '07
Originally Posted by JohnZ
Do you have the matched upper and lower rods? '63-'65 takes the 18" upper rod and 10-9/16" lower rod, and '66-'67 takes the 19-1/4" upper rod and 8-9/16" lower rod.
I'm going to measure the rod on my '68 Z28 and if it is 19-1/4" I will borrow it for a test fit.
Race Director
Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 14,984
Likes: 185
From: CT
Also check the following:
1) Correct fork ball
2) Correct fork
3) Correct throwout bearing
4) Correct placement of throwout bearing on fork
Any/all of the above if not correct can create a release problem
1) Correct fork ball
2) Correct fork
3) Correct throwout bearing
4) Correct placement of throwout bearing on fork
Any/all of the above if not correct can create a release problem
Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 1,060
Likes: 19
From: Ocean Springs, MS
St. Jude Donor '07
Clutch Issue Resolved but I have a Question
Originally Posted by 64roadster
John, I do have the matched upper and lower rods that are correct for '64, the 18" and 10-9/16" but since they don't seem long enough I suspect the pedal assy is not correct for '64. Everything seems too short.
I'm going to measure the rod on my '68 Z28 and if it is 19-1/4" I will borrow it for a test fit.
I'm going to measure the rod on my '68 Z28 and if it is 19-1/4" I will borrow it for a test fit.
Does anyone know the application for the top hole?
Also, even with the return spring in place on the firewall the pedal does not return to full "up" position. Is there a second return spring?
Appreciate the help.
Gordon
Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 1,060
Likes: 19
From: Ocean Springs, MS
St. Jude Donor '07
Originally Posted by magicv8
Are you sure you have the correct Zbar (pivot shaft)? 19 years ago, I had gotten one for a BB car by mistake, and when I swapped to SB Zbar everything worked fine.
At least now the car can move under its own power, so I guess I better add brake fluid and the steering coloumn.
Safety Car
Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 4,142
Likes: 704
Originally Posted by 64roadster
I had the correct clutch rods but I couldn't resolve my issue until I change to the lower pivot hole in the clutch pedal. It is only 1" or so lower but it now allows the clutch to operate normally.
Gordon
Gordon
.
Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 1,060
Likes: 19
From: Ocean Springs, MS
St. Jude Donor '07
Originally Posted by buns
This statement is confusing. To the best of my knowledge there are no "pivot" holes in the clutch arm. There is a bracket with a "pin" that goes thru the clutch rod, which is adjustable. Anyone else have any input? Picture of my '66 assembly below.
.
.
Team Owner
Joined: Oct 2000
Posts: 38,897
Likes: 1,926
From: Washington Michigan
Originally Posted by 64roadster
The location you circled is the one that resolved my problem. I was connecting the clutch rod to the pin that is slightly higher on the pedal assembly. By any chance does a returm spring attach under the dash? I don't see one in the AIM, except for the one attaching to the engine side of the firewall.
Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 1,060
Likes: 19
From: Ocean Springs, MS
St. Jude Donor '07
Originally Posted by JohnZ
The pedal pushrod goes over the pin, not on either of the bolts that attach the bracket to the pedal arm. The only return spring is on the engine side, from the hook on the steering column bracket on the dash to the top of the Z-bar.
Team Owner
Joined: Oct 2000
Posts: 38,897
Likes: 1,926
From: Washington Michigan
Originally Posted by 64roadster
John, with the correct linkage and clutch fork, can you see any reason why the clutch would not operate properly with the linkage attached to pin on the pedal arm?
Does your diaphragm clutch pressure plate have flat or bent fingers?
Throwout bearing installation:
