Lars
had a great write up about adjusting mechanical lifters, can any one remember the topic it was on, I can't find anything in search and I am having valve slap bad. :cry

 

Over the years I've tried different methods. This is what I use now and found is the easiest:

1. Adjust your Intake when the Exhaust begins to open.
2. Adjust your Exhaust when the Intake is almost closed.

Basically, you want to make sure the valve is completely closed (on the base circle) when adjusting it. If you are aware of the chevy firing pattern, 1-8-4-3-6-5-7-2, then you know what valve to look to adjust next.

 

Propwash;

I think what you're referring to is the sequence one would use when adjusting the valve lash other than just following the firing order.

I remember Lars recommending something to the effect of placing the #1 cyl. at TDC and adjust several cylinders at once. (Various intake and exhaust valves) Then turn the engine over 180 degrees and doing the remaining valves. Since the "bandwidth" is fairly wide, you don't have to turn the crank over to every cylinder to adjust. Adjusting the valves this way saves you a considerable amount of time. Problem is I can't remember the sequence.:(

Calling MagicMachines!

 

Propwash. You have mail. Bob W http://members.kos.net/willisb/

 

The firing order is the sequence which you would adjust the valves!

If you are sure the grind of your cam will result in the lifter being at the absolute base of the circle, you can adjust the valves at 360 degrees rotation of the crank (180 degrees camshaft rotation). If you have a wild cam, double check. I do it the other way and it takes me about 20 minutes once a month.

In any case, I think this is what you are looking for:
Remeber the firing order 1-8-4-3-6-5-7-2

Rotate to TDC on #1 (look at the rotor position or to be dead sure I put a wad of paper in the #1 spark hole and watch it blow out)

Adjust:
1,8,4,3 Exhaust
5,7,2,1 Intake

Rotate the Crank 360 degrees (Should be #6TDC)

Adjust:
6,5,7,2 Exhaust
8,4,3,6 Intake

Hope this is what you need!!

 

Prop -

Because you have the "30-30" cam, with VERY long clearance ramps, you can't set the clearances cold with the normal method, as both the intake and exhaust valve on any cylinder are still on the ramps when that cylinder is at TDC; that's why the Service Manual is very specific about only setting them "hot and running". There is a better way, however, to set them cold, that will give you better results. Use the link below and go to the last post in that thread for a full explanation of how to do it (and why).
http://www.camaros.net/forum/Forum9/HTML/004077.html

 

JohnZ,
I have owned many solid lifter cars and have always
adjusted them hot with the engine running.
There have been many, many posts on this board
discussing adjusting them cold?
Unless you are building new engine,
why would anyone set them cold?
Just curious.
(I have a few methods that contain the oil, creating no mess) :seeya

 

396 Rat;

I don't think you went far enough down the thread on the Camaro Forum to see JohnZ's post explaining and answering your questions. Look for his post.

The thread is discussing hyd and solids. John's post addresses solids.

 

396Rat -

I've adjusted them hot and running for 40 years too (using cut-up valve covers and rocker arm clips to contain the oil) - all my toys have solid lifters. However, thanks to careful cam lift/crank angle research by SWCDuke, he developed the method outlined in the link I posted, and we used my '69 Z/28 with the "30-30" cam as the "guinea pig" for the procedure. It works great, no mess, no hot oil to contain, more accurate adjustment, runs better, sounds better too. The very long clearance ramps on the "30-30" and the ACTUAL 1.37:1 rocker ratio at the lash point (vs. the design ratio of 1.5:1, which is not there at the lash point) makes this an unusual case, and the procedure works VERY nicely. I shared it with the Z/28 community several months ago, and got lots of positive feedback from other Z/28 owners who also found it to be a superior method to "hot and running" for the "30-30" cam.

 

Bob W.
I can only get 3 letters at a time on my screen from your E-mail.
John Z
Thanks for the web site. Lars E-mailed me his paper on adjusting Hydrolic lifters stating the difference in solids which turns out to be almost word for word as your way. I first set intake and exhaust at .030 and they rattled louder than ever and idoled like an RV, I called Lars and he looked up the specs confirmed the .030 and said that sounds like to much and offered alternatives.
I ended up setting the intake at .024 and the exhaust at .026 .
Bottom line is that works and I can see where with practice I can do this in 30 minutes with a little practice.
Thanks guys for all the responses. :seeya


[Modified by propwash, 4:37 PM 9/17/2001]

 

Rat,
Explain your method of adjusting your valves with the engine running. Ive never adjusted solids with the engine running?
thanks Jeff

 

Its not rocket science, And others may have a better way? I use old valve covers split and bent up at the top to control splashing. Also use those little rubber wire clips things on the 396.
(they are used on hyd lifters normaly)
Get engine up to temp, remove cover, install split cover, start engine and adj using specified size feeler guage as a go no go guage. Call it good when it barley
slips in. Then tighten lock nut & re-check.
Thats it. It has worked for yrs and yrs. I hope someone dosent tell me
Its a bad method! LOL LOL as its worked fine for many yrs.........

 

This may sound like a dumb question, but shouldnt you know the piston to valve clearance before using this method? Will the valve lift increase when you slip the feeler guage under the rocker arm with the engine running, because your rocker arm will be pushing on the gage plus the valve?
Jeff :confused:

 

Yes, it will increase valve lift by the thickness of the feeler gauge inserted between the rocker and the valve stem. This is not a problem on any production engine, as most production designs, even with dome pistons, have a minimum of .100" piston-to-valve clearance. Aftermarket buildups with higher compression, larger domes and less clearance need to take this into consideration (which is why Pro-Stockers are set cold, not hot and running, as they generally have .040" or less clearance).

 

I've found I only get good results if I set the valves with the engine hot & not running. I warm the engine, connect a jumper, with a push button switch, from +12V to the stater solenoid. With the valve cover removed, transmission in neutral, I turn the engine over setting the lash when each valve is fully closed. I typically do one side, than run the engine again to keep it warm and do the other side. This works really well, you do not get hot oil everywhere, and the lash is as good as it comes.

 

JohnZ

Just wanted to throw out a thanks for the post. I had tried to find the archives for the older posts with no luck. I did not think my solids were that far out, but after going through them useing your method, I was surprised by a much smoother idle, and instant throttle response. Happy tire chirps through all the gears!

 

Just like everything else, there are many correct ways to do it.

I have used the "set intake when the exhaust is opening" and "set exhaust when the intake is closing" method for years with great results.

I also set mine with the engine dead cold. I don't like messing with the oil slop everywhere, and at times I have that close PV clearance issues. I subtract a few .000's depending on the types of heads I'm using (iron or aluminum) and go from there.

The system of running it, pulling the cover and setting them, then re-running engine and then doing it all again on the other side works fine, but for me it leaves a few variables on some cars.If it takes longer to pull one cover than the other, or someone walks up and talks to you, the phone rings, you drop a tool or whatever, all allow the settings to potentially be different. I know when setting them on a dyno after the engine warms up, you better be fast because the valve temps move around alot quickly when the engine is off.

Hot and running is by far the most consistent IF you can keep an accurate feel on a gauge bouncing around like that. As picky as I am doing this stuff, that is too big a variable for me. Smoke in your eyes, hot oil on your fngers, slippery gauge etc. Too much work, but a great system if you can pull it off.

Setting them dead cold eliminates all those variables. I KNOW that there is no doubt they are all set at the exact same temp. I can set one today and another tomorrow and not worry about it.

To determine what the cold setting should be, you can pick a number and set them. Run it till the oil temp is up and then quickly pull a cover to see if it is at the running clearance you want. They will all be at that clearance. Once you determine how much things move around on your motor you have a good baseline to work with. Mine is currently .006 less cold than what I want to end up with hot. Every engine can be a little different. My 427 was .003 less. It had iron heads and steel shim gaskets vs aluminum heads and composition gaskets. They both have stainless valves.

I just start at one cylinder and go from there. I don't have to remember sequences ( sometimes I work on Non-Chevys!) and I can just check any cylinder I want at any time by using the method outlined.

Hope this helps,

Jim

 

Adjusted mine Fri.
(Needed new valve over gaskets) Used cork this time,
the rubber one's I was using were too stiff & leaked a little)
Could not crush 'em with the thin covers.
But I did adj. Hot & NOT running. Farthest one out
was about .001
Only about 2000 miles since last adj.
2 yrs ago.
:cheers:

 

I'm sure your method also works well. I gave up long ago trying to set the valves with the engine runniung. During my younger years I road raced my vett and had two separate L88 crate engines in the car. With cams as wild as the L88's or even my stock 425HP cam, which is the engine back in the car now, I could never set the valves with the engine running. Or to be exact, I could set them but .024" and .026" felt just the same to me. That is when I decided to set them with the engine warmed, but not running. Works for me.

Joe G.

 

John Z
Thanks for the post and the info. I printed it out, I will play with it to get more proficent with setting the lifters, I am still having trouble with the carb after using a generic rebuild kit I finally sent it to Holley for the full monte so The car is down for 6 weeks.