New engine start up
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Aug 2004
Posts: 3,078
Likes: 101
From: Riverhead New York
New engine start up
Can anyone post the a good thread for instructions on a first start up on a new engine. I'm particularly interested in the correct way to wear in the Camshaft. I've done my best but to no avail. Thanks, Al W.
Safety Car
Joined: Mar 2002
Posts: 3,780
Likes: 442
From: Southwest MI
Some tips/advice (I'm sure you'll get more):
- put cam lube on all lobes, the dist gear, and the face of the lifters, just use oil on the OD of the lifter.
- pour some EOS over the rocker arms.
- prime the oil system with drill motor, till oil flows from the top of each pushrod, it take s a while, so be patient (may have to hand rotate the engine somewhat to get flow from each rod)
- fill the carb with fuel, make sure your accel pump to primed, have enough fuel in the tank for a 30 min run.
- have a helper or 2 handy....nice to have one to watch coolant level, and keep it full...another to adjust the distributor a touch if needed to make her start immediately and look for leaks, abnormalities.
- keep an eye on oil pressure, temp and RPM's, vary RPM's as noted below for the first 30 min. & do NOT let it idle
- use a good grade of dino oil (Rotella 15-40 would be good), plus a can of GM EOS..... i like to overfill by a quart to get a little extra oil splash on the cam lobes
- make sure you have good ventilation, 30 minutes is a long time.
- if there is an issue, leak, etc, stop engine, correct, then resume, again, do NOT let it idle.
- change oil and filter after initial run..... i do it again after 100-200 miles
The below may be of help (from the Crane website, check the other cam makers as well, they usually all have advice)
NOTE: Do not use synthetic oil during the break-in period. .......
B) Correct break-in procedure.
After the correct break-in lubricant is applied to the cam and lifters, fill the crankcase with fresh non-synthetic oil. Prime the oil system with a priming tool and an electric drill so that all oil passages and the oil filter are full of oil. Pre-set the ignition timing and prime the fuel system. Fill the cooling system. Start the engine. The engine should start quickly and run between 1500 and 3000 rpm.
If the engine will not start, don't continue to crank for long periods, as that is very detrimental to the life of the cam. Check for the cause and correct. The engine should quickly start and be run between 1500 to 3000 rpm. Vary the rpm up and down in this rpm range during the first 15 to 20 minutes, (do not run the engine at a steady rpm). During this break-in time, verify that the pushrods are rotating, as this will show that the lifters are also rotating. If the lifters don't rotate, the cam lobe and lifter will fail. Sometimes you may need to help spin the pushrod to start the rotation process during this break-in procedure.
- put cam lube on all lobes, the dist gear, and the face of the lifters, just use oil on the OD of the lifter.
- pour some EOS over the rocker arms.
- prime the oil system with drill motor, till oil flows from the top of each pushrod, it take s a while, so be patient (may have to hand rotate the engine somewhat to get flow from each rod)
- fill the carb with fuel, make sure your accel pump to primed, have enough fuel in the tank for a 30 min run.
- have a helper or 2 handy....nice to have one to watch coolant level, and keep it full...another to adjust the distributor a touch if needed to make her start immediately and look for leaks, abnormalities.
- keep an eye on oil pressure, temp and RPM's, vary RPM's as noted below for the first 30 min. & do NOT let it idle
- use a good grade of dino oil (Rotella 15-40 would be good), plus a can of GM EOS..... i like to overfill by a quart to get a little extra oil splash on the cam lobes
- make sure you have good ventilation, 30 minutes is a long time.
- if there is an issue, leak, etc, stop engine, correct, then resume, again, do NOT let it idle.
- change oil and filter after initial run..... i do it again after 100-200 miles
The below may be of help (from the Crane website, check the other cam makers as well, they usually all have advice)
NOTE: Do not use synthetic oil during the break-in period. .......
B) Correct break-in procedure.
After the correct break-in lubricant is applied to the cam and lifters, fill the crankcase with fresh non-synthetic oil. Prime the oil system with a priming tool and an electric drill so that all oil passages and the oil filter are full of oil. Pre-set the ignition timing and prime the fuel system. Fill the cooling system. Start the engine. The engine should start quickly and run between 1500 and 3000 rpm.
If the engine will not start, don't continue to crank for long periods, as that is very detrimental to the life of the cam. Check for the cause and correct. The engine should quickly start and be run between 1500 to 3000 rpm. Vary the rpm up and down in this rpm range during the first 15 to 20 minutes, (do not run the engine at a steady rpm). During this break-in time, verify that the pushrods are rotating, as this will show that the lifters are also rotating. If the lifters don't rotate, the cam lobe and lifter will fail. Sometimes you may need to help spin the pushrod to start the rotation process during this break-in procedure.
Last edited by 66427-450; Sep 14, 2006 at 11:06 PM.
Team Owner
Joined: Oct 2000
Posts: 38,897
Likes: 1,926
From: Washington Michigan
Originally Posted by 67L36Driver
The General never used a 'cam break in procedure'. 
Maybe the aftermarket cam makers are not as confident in their product as GM.
Maybe the aftermarket cam makers are not as confident in their product as GM.
