Help!! Starting problem.
Thread Starter
Le Mans Master
Joined: Feb 2001
Posts: 7,226
Likes: 399
From: Northern CA
Help!! Starting problem.
You guys are usually pretty good at troubleshooting problems like this... so here goes.
I've been battling with a 66' - 327/300. I've got a newer model Holley 600 on it that's drawing about 16.5 vacuum pressure. I have good spark. New plugs, rotor, cap, wires, coil etc.
It's got pertronix ignition that seems to be be fine.
The problem is: When I turn the key... it cranks fine... but won't turn over until I release the key. And then sometimes it won't "catch" and actually start the engine.
Cranks fine.... but will only start when I release the key.
I replaced the ignition switch last night.... and checked all the connections. Everything checks out.
I had a mechanic friend tell me he's only seen this happen once... and it turned out to be a bad solenoid..... but how can that be? The car cranks fine.
Any guesses would be helpful at this point.
Thanks.
I've been battling with a 66' - 327/300. I've got a newer model Holley 600 on it that's drawing about 16.5 vacuum pressure. I have good spark. New plugs, rotor, cap, wires, coil etc.
It's got pertronix ignition that seems to be be fine.
The problem is: When I turn the key... it cranks fine... but won't turn over until I release the key. And then sometimes it won't "catch" and actually start the engine.
Cranks fine.... but will only start when I release the key.
I replaced the ignition switch last night.... and checked all the connections. Everything checks out.
I had a mechanic friend tell me he's only seen this happen once... and it turned out to be a bad solenoid..... but how can that be? The car cranks fine.
Any guesses would be helpful at this point.
Thanks.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Jan 2000
Posts: 8,918
Likes: 27
From: New Hill NC
The wire that bypasses the old balast resistor is probably not hooked up to the positive terminal of the ignition. When the key is in the start position there is no fire to the ignition. Only when turned back to run is the fire there. It is starting when you return the switch. Look for the wire from the solinoid. It should be pink. Hook it up to the positive connection at the distributor and it should start.
Thread Starter
Le Mans Master
Joined: Feb 2001
Posts: 7,226
Likes: 399
From: Northern CA
Originally Posted by wombvette
The wire that bypasses the old balast resistor is probably not hooked up to the positive terminal of the ignition. When the key is in the start position there is no fire to the ignition. Only when turned back to run is the fire there. It is starting when you return the switch. Look for the wire from the solinoid. It should be pink. Hook it up to the positive connection at the distributor and it should start.
The purple wire from the ignition switch runs to the solenoid.
The engine doesn't "fire" in the run position. It only fires when I release it from the "start" position.
The spring action of the switch "releases" the key but doesn't send it to the "run" positon.
Only then does it start.
Weird.
Thread Starter
Le Mans Master
Joined: Feb 2001
Posts: 7,226
Likes: 399
From: Northern CA
Originally Posted by knight37128
Bad starter (the armature), when the starter disengages it speeds up.
Ask me how I know this?
Ask me how I know this?
O.K.... I'll bite. How do you know this?
Racer
Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 384
Likes: 0
From: Nova Scotia
Two questions- do you need a ballast resister with a Pertronix (can't remember, but check the directions)? Second, I had this problem when I hooked up a high torque starter on the 59 and it was an issue with the wiring. The high torque used a different solenoid and I had to run an extra wire- are you using a stock solenoid? I'm betting it is a wiring issue. My 59 were roll over easlity while in "start" but didn't fire until you released the key.
Don
Don
Team Owner
Joined: Mar 2003
Posts: 26,118
Likes: 1,874
From: Greenville, Indiana
Put a test light on the switch side of the coil with the key "on". Should be a steady bright light. Then crank the engine with the test light on the distributor side of the coil. Should be a flashing light. On off on off. Not bright dim bright dim.
What happens when you do this?
What happens when you do this?
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Le Mans Master
Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 6,048
Likes: 5
From: "cutesy" TN
Originally Posted by KENS78SILVERANNIV
I think you may have something there. That sounds like a possibility.
O.K.... I'll bite. How do you know this?
O.K.... I'll bite. How do you know this?
It just seems like the same simptom. Acts like it needs more timing, but it is the starter dragging.
Get your starter rebuilt and it will start so much better.
Team Owner
Joined: Oct 2000
Posts: 38,897
Likes: 1,926
From: Washington Michigan
Originally Posted by KENS78SILVERANNIV
The problem is: When I turn the key... it cranks fine... but won't turn over until I release the key. And then sometimes it won't "catch" and actually start the engine.
Cranks fine.... but will only start when I release the key.
Cranks fine.... but will only start when I release the key.
Thread Starter
Le Mans Master
Joined: Feb 2001
Posts: 7,226
Likes: 399
From: Northern CA
It's been a busy weekend. Didn't have time to pull the solenoid and starter. I'll be under there in the next few days inspecting wires again and see what I come up with.
Thanks for all the help! I'll keep you updated on this one.
Thanks Again!
Thanks for all the help! I'll keep you updated on this one.
Thanks Again!
Drifting
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 1,645
Likes: 65
Ballest resistor should be in the circuit with a stock coil so you do not fry it. When starting the drain through the starter drops the voltage to the coil, after cranking is done, the resistor is used to drop the voltage. If you want to get rid of the stock coil and ballast resistor, Pertronics has a coil with a heavier winding and increases voltage to plugs. I have this setup in my 66 and it works great.
Last edited by tentuna; Oct 3, 2006 at 07:52 AM.
Team Owner
Joined: Mar 2003
Posts: 26,118
Likes: 1,874
From: Greenville, Indiana
Originally Posted by KENS78SILVERANNIV
It's been a busy weekend. Didn't have time to pull the solenoid and starter. I'll be under there in the next few days inspecting wires again and see what I come up with.
Thanks for all the help! I'll keep you updated on this one.
Thanks Again!
Thanks for all the help! I'll keep you updated on this one.
Thanks Again!
The quick check I outlined will check your solenoid and wiring integrity at the starter. Takes about 30 seconds.
Thread Starter
Le Mans Master
Joined: Feb 2001
Posts: 7,226
Likes: 399
From: Northern CA
Wanted to give you an update on this.
Have a friend who's a mechanic for Chrysler tell me the only time he saw this same symptom....the solenoid was acting up..and causing it.
(Car cranks forever...but won't light off until you release the key from the start position)
I put a new Delco starter/solenoid combo on the car and..... BOOM!... Starts with just a tap!
Finally tracked it down.... in time for Northern CA's first rain of the season.
Thanks to all who offered suggestions. The help was much appreciated!
Have a friend who's a mechanic for Chrysler tell me the only time he saw this same symptom....the solenoid was acting up..and causing it.
(Car cranks forever...but won't light off until you release the key from the start position)
I put a new Delco starter/solenoid combo on the car and..... BOOM!... Starts with just a tap!
Finally tracked it down.... in time for Northern CA's first rain of the season.
Thanks to all who offered suggestions. The help was much appreciated!
