4spd Removal
Thread Starter
3rd Gear
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 3
Likes: 0
From: TRENTON KY
4spd Removal
Ive inhierited a 1963 coupe. Its a 327 4 spd. Im in the process of removing the trans but it appears that you cannot remove it in the same manner as lets say my 72 442. I have a assembly manual but it really doesnt help me on how it comes out. It looks like the bell housing may need to come out first. This is my first vette resto. I did a complete ground up on my 72 olds 442 w-30, but honestly this is a totally different animal
it's a different animal (smaller and faster
).
Le Mans Master
Joined: Nov 2000
Posts: 7,246
Likes: 21
From: Going too fast over the hill. Iowa
Besides the above, I have found it's easier and faster to also do the following:
Unbolt the exhausts and disconnect the tach drive cable.
Remove 2 of 3 engine mount bolts and loosen the third (front-most bolt)
Using a U shaped wood support straddling the oil pan to support the engine at the starter and oil filter engine casting pads, lower the rear of the engine until you can easily unbolt the clutch housing.
Remove the clutch housing with (hanging on the input shaft) the trans.
Note that you take a chance on cracking the rubber in the engine mounts if you dont remove the bolts. (Ask me how I know)
I have removed the trans without the clutch housing, and without loosening the motor mounts. I found it takes me longer, and I swear instead of enjoying working on an old Corvette.
IMO mechanical jacks (sizzors or screw type) provide better (fine) control under the engine support while lowering the engine.
When these cars were new, and the bodies were stiff and the body mounts hadn't sagged, there was more room between the crossmember and floor to pull the trans back.
Unbolt the exhausts and disconnect the tach drive cable.
Remove 2 of 3 engine mount bolts and loosen the third (front-most bolt)
Using a U shaped wood support straddling the oil pan to support the engine at the starter and oil filter engine casting pads, lower the rear of the engine until you can easily unbolt the clutch housing.
Remove the clutch housing with (hanging on the input shaft) the trans.
Note that you take a chance on cracking the rubber in the engine mounts if you dont remove the bolts. (Ask me how I know)
I have removed the trans without the clutch housing, and without loosening the motor mounts. I found it takes me longer, and I swear instead of enjoying working on an old Corvette.
IMO mechanical jacks (sizzors or screw type) provide better (fine) control under the engine support while lowering the engine.
When these cars were new, and the bodies were stiff and the body mounts hadn't sagged, there was more room between the crossmember and floor to pull the trans back.
Last edited by magicv8; Oct 2, 2006 at 11:03 AM.
Thread Starter
3rd Gear
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 3
Likes: 0
From: TRENTON KY
Originally Posted by magicv8
Besides the above, I have found it's easier and faster to also do the following:
Unbolt the exhausts and disconnect the tach drive cable.
Remove 2 of 3 engine mount bolts and loosen the third (front-most bolt)
Using a U shaped wood support straddling the oil pan to support the engine at the starter and oil filter engine casting pads, lower the rear of the engine until you can easily unbolt the clutch housing.
Remove the clutch housing with (hanging on the input shaft) the trans.
Note that you take a chance on cracking the rubber in the engine mounts if you dont remove the bolts. (Ask me how I know)
I have removed the trans without the clutch housing, and without loosening the motor mounts. I found it takes me longer, and I swear instead of enjoying working on an old Corvette.
IMO mechanical jacks (sizzors or screw type) provide better (fine) control under the engine support while lowering the engine.
When these cars were new, and the bodies were stiff and the body mounts hadn't sagged, there was more room between the crossmember and floor to pull the trans back.
Unbolt the exhausts and disconnect the tach drive cable.
Remove 2 of 3 engine mount bolts and loosen the third (front-most bolt)
Using a U shaped wood support straddling the oil pan to support the engine at the starter and oil filter engine casting pads, lower the rear of the engine until you can easily unbolt the clutch housing.
Remove the clutch housing with (hanging on the input shaft) the trans.
Note that you take a chance on cracking the rubber in the engine mounts if you dont remove the bolts. (Ask me how I know)
I have removed the trans without the clutch housing, and without loosening the motor mounts. I found it takes me longer, and I swear instead of enjoying working on an old Corvette.
IMO mechanical jacks (sizzors or screw type) provide better (fine) control under the engine support while lowering the engine.
When these cars were new, and the bodies were stiff and the body mounts hadn't sagged, there was more room between the crossmember and floor to pull the trans back.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Nov 2000
Posts: 7,246
Likes: 21
From: Going too fast over the hill. Iowa
I'm sure there are SB sidepipes available, but my understanding is that stock versions diminish the torque and horsepower while damaging the body panels, and increasing the smell and noise level.
I have 2.5 inch exhausts routed through (see through) Borla turbo mufflers with 2.5 in outlets. I can still hear Wolfman Jack on the stereo at 85mph with the top down - of course my headrests have speakers.
I thought you might be interested in reading this web page:
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/show...ferrerid=17138
I have 2.5 inch exhausts routed through (see through) Borla turbo mufflers with 2.5 in outlets. I can still hear Wolfman Jack on the stereo at 85mph with the top down - of course my headrests have speakers.
I thought you might be interested in reading this web page:
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/show...ferrerid=17138
Last edited by magicv8; Oct 2, 2006 at 09:18 PM.
