Given all the expert advice received from a recent post regarding the removal of my 406 SBC and T-10 tranny , which is now, today, located in my 'winter months' mini-shop with heat, mounted on engine-stand and ready to be disected to eventually determine long-term reliability or if the thing has been 'trashed' based upon past history ... again I'll be posting many questions about how to ensure the integrity of this engine once and after I get into it . I'm determined to resolve the best functionality and performance it is able to provide .

In the event this engine is reliable and without basic mechanical problems, I am ready to define the nature of another winter project . You know, a 'back-up' project if needed, before Spring in June weather shows up here .

I'm looking to determine the long-term function and reliability of the '63 differential . Obviously, I must remove it from the car along with replacing all bearings, seals, u-joints, etc. Rather than sending it in to a differential rebuild service with possible questionable credentials, I'm thinking I may be able to do the rebuild work myself . I've got lotsa time, have the tools and inclination to follow-through with the help from the members of this forum .

What do I need to know about rebuilding the differential? Or, is it better to send it off for a 'professional' rebuild?

Please, your counsel and advice ...

 

"I've got lotsa time, have the tools and inclination to follow-through with the help from the members of this forum ."

I'd say go for it. Search for instuctions... center of gears,backlash,chrushing shims,etc. No guts-no glory. Just make sure you have your AAA card with you when you drive it.:-)

 

How mechanical are you? Do you have a full set of tools? Feeler gauges torque wrench etc? It is not a simple job, but if you are patience and willing than go for it.

You will need a few tools that do not necessarily come in a basic set.

I believe that these guys have a good rep. http://www.vansteel.com/index.cfm?fu...&SubGroup=1929

There is a good shop in Portland, but I can not remember the name off the top of my head. If you are interested, I can find out for you.

oWEN

 

I'm good to go with the automotive and machine-shop tools I have which is much more comprehensive than a basic tool set . As far as myself being mechanically inclined, I have hands-on experience with building a '64 Vette Convertible from scratch with many used and new parts. All the work was performed by my son and I, except the engine and differential which we had farmed out to professionals .

Other than that, I have accomplished a total body-off restoration of a 1930 Packard Sedan to include assemblying the engine after the engine block and head had been re-machined. I fabricated many bronze sleeve bearings for various parts of the car using my South-Bend 10" Thread-Cutting Lathe ... also have two milling machines, drill presses, 40-ton hydraulic press, MIG and TIG Welders, Plasma Cutter, gas welding/cutting, etc.

So I believe I have the tools and ability to do the work to successfully and reliably rebuild the differential in my car .

My only issue is that I have zero knowledge and familiarity in this area. It will definitely be a learning experience for me ... and I do not wish to screw-it-up .

Of course, I can only take on this project with the help and guidance from the experts here on this forum . Without your resource I should likely not get involved in such an undertaking

So, I'm gonna do it I'll begin by removing the differential from the car so it can be moved into my mini-shop where there will be plenty of heat to keep my tush warm throughout the long and cold winter months .

Thanks oWEN for the tip regarding VanSteel ... I just received their catalog last week ... I haven't really had a chance to read it yet :o .

Thanks everyone

 

Check this out.....

http://forums.corvetteforum.com/show....php?t=1236684

You probably will not have any questions after you read this....

 

Thanks beto !! I've just gotten into studying this thread in full detail ... looks like the best information available .

I'm gonna go for acquiring a copy of the paper Gary wrote ... that coupled with the photo's from his thread makes me think I can successfully tackle and complete rebuilding my rear-end . Oops, I don't mean my own personal rear-end ... ya know what I mean ... the one from my car .

Sheesh!! ... a couple of too many beers for me this afternoon . Oh well, a few more shouldn't hurt

 

Pete,
I ran a post on the 63-64 diff's a few months ago here,not sure where it is? With the 63& 64 the distance between the carrier bearings is tighter then the 65-79's because they used Dana carriers. The Eaton carrier of the 65-79 vintage will fit and is a better unit. You will not be able to use the 65-79 carrier shim kit though. You will need a special shim kit I made up to be able to set up the Eaton. The shims should be set up with a surface grinder to get the best result. You may be able to set them up in the South Bend but it will not be as accurate.

Gary

 

Garry,

After reading your tread (for the third time) I remembered that you mentioned that you wrote a paper on this job...I sent you an email yesterday regarding this. It is a long one.....I am not as brave as Pete and don't feel up to the task so I will likely require your services in the near future (maybe not so near). Meanwhile I would appreciate if you could spare a softcopy of your paper (or papers). Although I am usually reluctant to tackle jobs that may get me in trouble, I at least like to know what it is all about..

Thanks,

Beto (Luiz)

 

Pete,

Don't forget to post your own pics when doing the job....we that are not so brave enjoy looking at them......

Regards,

Beto

 

Luiz,
I did email the paper to you yesterday, did you get it?
Gary

 

I think the pictures I posted on the 63 rebuild were lost a while ago? Here are some that should compliment the other post referenced.

Gary



The early housings are tighter across the pads due to the Dana carrier used. When the Eatons were used then the distance opened up a bit.





Here the 63 diff is done, notice the rough cast bearing caps compared to the later one. The posi is a tuned and blueprinted Eaton, the other mods are HD yokes and socket head cap screws in place of the weaker hex heads that were in there.




Here are the shims used in the kits, they will not work with the 63-64 housings.







The shim size for the 63-64 range from about .080"- .090" +/- .010" you have to get them in snug but not preloaded to set the pattern. Then when you get the shims correct for backlash and pattern you have to fit new ones .005" over the setup size. Some guys may just add in a .005 shim but I like to grind one shim per side on these, just like the GM guys did way back then. The 65-79 are about .250" so they can be shimmed.






You can see how thin the shim is here.

 

Gary,

It did not come in .....let me give you another address just in case

larend@signal1.net



Thanks,

Luiz

 

They rebuilt one on Two Guys Garage this morning. Dunno' how much you can trust them for real information though. When it comes to dealing with
.000 and .00 clearances, dial indicators, etc... I farm it out to someone that has done plenty of them before like Gary.