clutch pedal adjustment????
12-09-2006, 08:55 PM
#21
Safety Car
Originally Posted by Mr D.
Ken, this is where your problem starts. You need to start at ground zero and reset everything back to a neutral position and start from there. Pay close attention for worn parts and elongated holes at this will cause problems also.
One thing in particular in addition to a careful visual inspection for worn parts, is the pin where the clutch rod attaches at the pedal mechanism. Pull the clutch rod off and take a close look at that pin. This probably has little if anything to do with your current problem, but if that pin is worn and snaps off when your out cruising it could cause problems. Also, check the weld that fastens the pedal lever to the mounting shaft.
Dave
12-09-2006, 10:06 PM
#22
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Originally Posted by rongold
I think that this is what most people are trying to describe. My clutch grabs about 1" off of the floor, and I have about 2" of free play at the top. The adjustment is at the forward end of the rod, allowing adjustment as the clutch wears.
I haven't had to adjust it since it was installed back in 1989.
I haven't had to adjust it since it was installed back in 1989.
RON
That is EXACTLY how mine looks. And acts!
Ken
12-10-2006, 07:56 AM
#23
Race Director
My BB car was originally adjusting out at the very end of the rod, requiring that my pedal be pushed hard to the floor to shift into reverse usually without grinding. Forward gear shifting wasn't too bad but as the clutch would wear it would get worse because I was effectively out of adjustment room. I have my pedal set in the normal release adjustment. I swapped the BB lower rod out for a SB lower rod, which is longer and my geometry ended up looking like KenSmith's picture. I will tell you that it definately works better as the arms on the Z-bar are positioned to where they are not being pushed overcenter the entire stroke as those in Rongold are. I can adjust it so I don't have to push it as hard towards the floor and the pedal effort feels a lot more balanced over the whole stroke.
That is probably not what Stingrayl76's problem is right now. Shounds like his pedal is adjusted to quick release and then there may be a pressure plate problem.
Dan
That is probably not what Stingrayl76's problem is right now. Shounds like his pedal is adjusted to quick release and then there may be a pressure plate problem.
Dan
12-10-2006, 09:18 AM
#24
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Originally Posted by Kensmith
Ron,
That is EXACTLY how mine looks. And acts!
Ken
That is EXACTLY how mine looks. And acts!
Ken
This picture looks "normal".
The less free play you have in the linkage, the further off the floor the clutch will engage. I've always adjusted mine to as little as possible to get a better clutch pedal feel.
When the engine torques over in the mounts it will move the clutch linkage a little. If you adjust less than spec, touch the pedal with your toe to check free play while under full throttle to make sure you still have some.
12-10-2006, 12:23 PM
#25
Safety Car
Seems a fairly common occurance with the clutch rod adjustment nuts being 'adjusted' all the way out to the end of the upper clutch rod thread travel. That's how it was on my car, too.
A new clutch rod swivel nut and lower fork/throwout bearing release rod replaced the original worn out pieces. The 'wear points' on the pin extensions that connect through and into the cross-shaft holes on both the swivel nut and lower rod extension were worn through to about 1/3 of their original diameter. The holes in the cross-shaft were a bit elongated but seemed reasonably ok. The original cross-shaft was reused.
Replacing the swivel nut and lower clutch rod made a significant difference. The clutch pedal free play is set to roughly 1 1/4 inch and there is now about 3/8 inch of thread showing on the upper clutch rod.
A new clutch rod swivel nut and lower fork/throwout bearing release rod replaced the original worn out pieces. The 'wear points' on the pin extensions that connect through and into the cross-shaft holes on both the swivel nut and lower rod extension were worn through to about 1/3 of their original diameter. The holes in the cross-shaft were a bit elongated but seemed reasonably ok. The original cross-shaft was reused.
Replacing the swivel nut and lower clutch rod made a significant difference. The clutch pedal free play is set to roughly 1 1/4 inch and there is now about 3/8 inch of thread showing on the upper clutch rod.
12-10-2006, 03:24 PM
#26
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Originally Posted by mrg
Seems a fairly common occurance with the clutch rod adjustment nuts being 'adjusted' all the way out to the end of the upper clutch rod thread travel. That's how it was on my car, too.
A new clutch rod swivel nut and lower fork/throwout bearing release rod replaced the original worn out pieces. The 'wear points' on the pin extensions that connect through and into the cross-shaft holes on both the swivel nut and lower rod extension were worn through to about 1/3 of their original diameter. The holes in the cross-shaft were a bit elongated but seemed reasonably ok. The original cross-shaft was reused.
Replacing the swivel nut and lower clutch rod made a significant difference. The clutch pedal free play is set to roughly 1 1/4 inch and there is now about 3/8 inch of thread showing on the upper clutch rod.
A new clutch rod swivel nut and lower fork/throwout bearing release rod replaced the original worn out pieces. The 'wear points' on the pin extensions that connect through and into the cross-shaft holes on both the swivel nut and lower rod extension were worn through to about 1/3 of their original diameter. The holes in the cross-shaft were a bit elongated but seemed reasonably ok. The original cross-shaft was reused.
Replacing the swivel nut and lower clutch rod made a significant difference. The clutch pedal free play is set to roughly 1 1/4 inch and there is now about 3/8 inch of thread showing on the upper clutch rod.
12-10-2006, 04:32 PM
#27
Race Director
I wouldn't worry to much with trying to get it even with the brake pedal the bigger concern here is to get the adjustment right. The spec is about 3/4" to 1" of free play from when you first press the pedal. Could it be that you have one of the following that can be forcing the travel all the way to the floor? Check and see what Z bar that you have as they are different and if you have the incorrect length push rod from the Z bar to the release fork. Also do you know if the actual push rod from the clutch pedal is the correct one. I was over at a friends house the other day and he was having a hell of a time getting his clutch adjusted. After looking at it I discovered that the rod had been broken previously and some thread stock welded on. I didn't look but have you posted a pic up of your linkage? Dave
12-10-2006, 05:47 PM
#28
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Originally Posted by youwish2bme
I wouldn't worry to much with trying to get it even with the brake pedal the bigger concern here is to get the adjustment right. The spec is about 3/4" to 1" of free play from when you first press the pedal. Could it be that you have one of the following that can be forcing the travel all the way to the floor? Check and see what Z bar that you have as they are different and if you have the incorrect length push rod from the Z bar to the release fork. Also do you know if the actual push rod from the clutch pedal is the correct one. I was over at a friends house the other day and he was having a hell of a time getting his clutch adjusted. After looking at it I discovered that the rod had been broken previously and some thread stock welded on. I didn't look but have you posted a pic up of your linkage? Dave
12-10-2006, 07:06 PM
#30
Drifting
Originally Posted by Kensmith
Ron,
That is EXACTLY how mine looks. And acts!
Ken
That is EXACTLY how mine looks. And acts!
Ken
Then, your clutch is acting normal.
12-10-2006, 07:14 PM
#31
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Originally Posted by rongold
===================================
Then, your clutch is acting normal.
Then, your clutch is acting normal.
12-10-2006, 07:18 PM
#32
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I think what you and Ron are missing in my statements is that there are a couple of different Z bars available from 63-67. If you have one that is not the correct one for your car it will have the effect you are discribing. Okay, maybe it's just the linkage and everything is working right. Why then is it not disengaging until you press it to the floor?
12-10-2006, 09:37 PM
#33
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Originally Posted by youwish2bme
I think what you and Ron are missing in my statements is that there are a couple of different Z bars available from 63-67. If you have one that is not the correct one for your car it will have the effect you are discribing. Okay, maybe it's just the linkage and everything is working right. Why then is it not disengaging until you press it to the floor?
12-11-2006, 07:27 PM
#34
Race Director
Originally Posted by youwish2bme
I think what you and Ron are missing in my statements is that there are a couple of different Z bars available from 63-67. If you have one that is not the correct one for your car it will have the effect you are discribing. Okay, maybe it's just the linkage and everything is working right. Why then is it not disengaging until you press it to the floor?
Dan
12-12-2006, 12:15 AM
#35
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Originally Posted by DansYellow66
Related to the Z bars is where your linkage adjusts on the upper rod. If your adjusted all the way forward at the end of the rod - study for a minute what happens when the clutch pedal is pushed in. The upper Z bar arm is already positioned over center at the start. As the pedal is pushed in it is pushed further overcenter. The same thing is happening on the lower arm hooked to the lower rod. The further the pedal is pushed down, the the less rear movement is transmitted to the throwout bearning arm because the movement of the ends or the arm are mostly just down (upper arm) and up (lower arm). Little movement is being tranmitted to the clutch. All this is doing is slowing down clutch action and lengthening the pedal movement needed to disengage the pressure plate fully. This is why the linkage works better with the adjustment further back on the upper rod. The upper clutch arm starts off in an under-center positon, works through the vertical axis of the Z bar shaft and then starts to go over-center, but not a lot. This results in much more direct pedal to throwout bearing arm linkage and linear movement.
Dan
Dan
That makes good sense. Will try that. I was trying to get the play out of the pedal travel but I see what you are saying. Thanks!
12-24-2006, 01:15 AM
#36
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Related to the Z bars is where your linkage adjusts on the upper rod. If your adjusted all the way forward at the end of the rod - study for a minute what happens when the clutch pedal is pushed in. The upper Z bar arm is already positioned over center at the start. As the pedal is pushed in it is pushed further overcenter. The same thing is happening on the lower arm hooked to the lower rod. The further the pedal is pushed down, the the less rear movement is transmitted to the throwout bearning arm because the movement of the ends or the arm are mostly just down (upper arm) and up (lower arm). Little movement is being tranmitted to the clutch. All this is doing is slowing down clutch action and lengthening the pedal movement needed to disengage the pressure plate fully. This is why the linkage works better with the adjustment further back on the upper rod. The upper clutch arm starts off in an under-center positon, works through the vertical axis of the Z bar shaft and then starts to go over-center, but not a lot. This results in much more direct pedal to throwout bearing arm linkage and linear movement.
Dan
Dan
I tried what you said. Made it worse. Gave me way too much pedal travel before even pushing on the clutch. Had to go the other way to take out all that pedal play. Nut is now at the very end and clutch works fine. It may be a wrong position on the pedal itself. I will check that next but all is well at this time. Can actually get it in reverse which was a little tricky before.
12-24-2006, 09:30 AM
#37
Race Director
Dan,
I tried what you said. Made it worse. Gave me way too much pedal travel before even pushing on the clutch. Had to go the other way to take out all that pedal play. Nut is now at the very end and clutch works fine. It may be a wrong position on the pedal itself. I will check that next but all is well at this time. Can actually get it in reverse which was a little tricky before.
I tried what you said. Made it worse. Gave me way too much pedal travel before even pushing on the clutch. Had to go the other way to take out all that pedal play. Nut is now at the very end and clutch works fine. It may be a wrong position on the pedal itself. I will check that next but all is well at this time. Can actually get it in reverse which was a little tricky before.
Dan
