'63 emissions question
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Heel & Toe
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 21
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From: Niceville FL
'63 emissions question
I'm replacing my intake manifold and carb this weekend, and am looking for recommendations on how to set up the emissions. My current set-up has the road draft tube connected to the bottom of the carb, and a breather cap on the oil fill tube. My new intake will not have an oil fill tube, so I'm using new valve covers with oil fill holes. After researching other threads on the board, my plan is to put a breather in one valve cover, and a PCV in the other, connected to the bottom of the carb. My question is what to do with the road draft tube? Should I tee it into the PCV connection to the carb, or just remove it? If I remove it, can you tell me if the hole is threaded or do I just use a plug, and what size? Also, if the hole is plugged, should I remove the oil baffle in the lifter valley? If it makes a difference, the engine is a 340 SHP, the new intake is a Weiand 8120, and the new carb is a Holley 4150 DP. Appreciate your advice.
Race Director
Joined: Oct 2005
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From: Camp Verde AZ
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Plug your road draft tube hole.
There is a long bolt that goes down the middle of the tube into the block.
have a local machine shop spin you up a piece of aluminum that fits in the hole, has a recess in the underside for an o-ring (or use a gasket sealer), and a hole in the middle for the bolt.
No tight tolerances needed on the plug, just a shoulder and reduced diameter to center it in the hole.
Shouldn't cost more than $15 from the right shop, as it is about a 5 minute job.
Doug
PS: leave the oil seperator in the lifter valley. Take the road draft tube to the machine shop.
There is a long bolt that goes down the middle of the tube into the block.
have a local machine shop spin you up a piece of aluminum that fits in the hole, has a recess in the underside for an o-ring (or use a gasket sealer), and a hole in the middle for the bolt.
No tight tolerances needed on the plug, just a shoulder and reduced diameter to center it in the hole.
Shouldn't cost more than $15 from the right shop, as it is about a 5 minute job.
Doug
PS: leave the oil seperator in the lifter valley. Take the road draft tube to the machine shop.
Last edited by AZDoug; Jan 18, 2007 at 01:23 AM.
