radiator
Thread Starter
Pro
Joined: Dec 2006
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From: Austin Tx
radiator
I have a car that has been sitting for a long time (16yrs). I have been in the process of replacing all of the "soft" parts in the engine (belts, hoses) and fluids. Upon closer inspection of the radiator I saw some crystalized anti-freeze a the drain plug.
I have removed the raditor for a pressure check and cleaning. It was found there were some minor "high pressure" leaks in the ends and main center body of radiator. The ends can be repaired, but can the radiator be dismantled and this center area repaired? What are your experiences?
I thought it was the original "Harrison" radiator due to finding a sticker under some black paint which clues me to a preivous repair, but it appears to be copper and brass. I thought the original radiators on these were aluminum? Should I proceed to get this repaired? Is it worth it? I don't know the quality of repairs this shop does, but they have been around for a long time. It will probably run around a $100 to $150. I saw the price of a resto replacement from Dewitts...and well I would like to get thing on the road to assess what else it needs before dropping $800 for a radiator.
Thank you in advance for suggestions.
I have removed the raditor for a pressure check and cleaning. It was found there were some minor "high pressure" leaks in the ends and main center body of radiator. The ends can be repaired, but can the radiator be dismantled and this center area repaired? What are your experiences?
I thought it was the original "Harrison" radiator due to finding a sticker under some black paint which clues me to a preivous repair, but it appears to be copper and brass. I thought the original radiators on these were aluminum? Should I proceed to get this repaired? Is it worth it? I don't know the quality of repairs this shop does, but they have been around for a long time. It will probably run around a $100 to $150. I saw the price of a resto replacement from Dewitts...and well I would like to get thing on the road to assess what else it needs before dropping $800 for a radiator.
Thank you in advance for suggestions.
Race Director
Joined: Jan 2002
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From: Close to DC
C2 of the Year Finalist - Modified 2020
FWIW, If your comfortable spending 100-150 in order to get everything up to par, that's not a bad idea. I had a copper/brass unit center section repaired and it was fine until I got my new DeWitts. The real pleasure and true performance of the cooling system will come with the DeWitts unit. In your efforts make sure your vacuum diaphram in the distributor advance it working, it's a system function related to cooling the engine at idle. Check the archives on the forum for additional ideas and tips. 
Dennis
Dennis
Melting Slicks
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 3,117
Likes: 19
From: Portlandia Oregon
I would have it repaired. The radiator shop should tell if they can fix to run correctly or if the fix is simply a band aid. I suspect that if the rad is simply repaired and not recored then it will look like a repair with the spots where the leaks were covered in solder.
I have rads repaired whenever possible, (subject to price, ie the 100-150 vs 800).
oWEN
I have rads repaired whenever possible, (subject to price, ie the 100-150 vs 800).
oWEN
Thread Starter
Pro
Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 592
Likes: 3
From: Austin Tx
radiator
Thanks for the input. I'll talk to them about getting recored. I didn't know the stack units could be recored.
I'll check that vac diaphram, never even occurred to me. I got a hold of an aluminum cross flow, but I really would rather have the original in place, not to mention they are very efficient.
It's funny I used to poke fun at my Dad for being a "Purist" with regard to restoring cars, but as I get older I begin to miss the simplicity and originality of it all. I now find myself learning "numbers" and looking for matching stuff. Just funny how it works.
I'll check that vac diaphram, never even occurred to me. I got a hold of an aluminum cross flow, but I really would rather have the original in place, not to mention they are very efficient.
It's funny I used to poke fun at my Dad for being a "Purist" with regard to restoring cars, but as I get older I begin to miss the simplicity and originality of it all. I now find myself learning "numbers" and looking for matching stuff. Just funny how it works.
Team Owner
Joined: Oct 2000
Posts: 38,897
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From: Washington Michigan
Thread Starter
Pro
Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 592
Likes: 3
From: Austin Tx
radiator
This is the "stack" style. I thought it was copper brass. I could easily be mistaken. There are no side tanks. It must be aluminum. I don't know where I got that thought. So, it sounds like a new Dewitt. Guess I will use my other aluminum until I save my change...
Former Vendor
Joined: Jan 2000
Posts: 5,593
Likes: 631
From: Brighton
I feel there is really only two good choices when it comes to midyear radiators and that is #1 the resto rad or #2 the Direct Fit.
The A63M is a real nice piece, all aluminum, and affordable at $525.
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Melting Slicks
Joined: Nov 2002
Posts: 2,460
Likes: 5
From: Wheaton IL
I have the direct fit pictured above and had Tom paint it black. I have a stock SHP motor and don't care about judging so it was the best choice for me. IN true poser fashion I slapped a repro Harrison sticker on it. 95% of the people who see the car will not know the difference and best of all IT WORKS VERY WELL.
Brian
Brian
Safety Car
Joined: Nov 2001
Posts: 4,424
Likes: 619
From: northern CA
I was all set to go with Tom's Direct Fit replacement radiator for my driver '64. .. .. In the end it was a Restoration unit that fit the bill. The stacked plate look of the Restoration style radiator has always appealed to me as being 'Corvette', in my mind. I guess I just couldn't get past that nagging thought! .. 
