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Distributor Advance Stop Bushing...

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Old Jan 22, 2007 | 02:43 PM
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Default Distributor Advance Stop Bushing...

So...it turns out that the advance stop bushing in my 327 distributor (dist # 1111069) was pretty well hammered out. A friend gave me a brass bushing and said "use this". Before I tried to press it on, I measured it...it would have been about a 15 thou interference fit...way too tight...probably would have bent the pin.

I can make one pretty easily. Anybody have the specs on them ? The stop bushing pin in my distributor is ~.185" OD. The piece handed me was ~.265" OD, and .168 ID.

The only thing that really matters is the OD of the bushing...I can make anything fit on the post, but want to get an idea of what the OD should be, rather than just have somebody hand me something from "Dirty Pocket-istan". Just want to get it right the first time. Shooting for ~ 24 deg. of mechanical advance before it hits the stop.

Any info out there ? Nothing in the shop manual or the '65 supplement.

Last edited by Don Keefhardt; Jan 22, 2007 at 03:05 PM.
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Old Jan 22, 2007 | 03:10 PM
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I don't know what the "friend" supplied you or if your little pin is the stock size, but these bushings are available in brass and rubber in a size that does fit (if anything, you need to deform it a bit to make sure it does not come off and fall down into the advance weights). Although originally rubber, most recommend going with metal.

LICS cat Section 48, item 06B is the metal sleeve - $2.00
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Old Jan 22, 2007 | 04:06 PM
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Yup...going to the brass/bronze bush, but .015 is too much of an 'interference fit'. With brass, something like .005 interference is enough to keep it from falling off and falling into the wood chipper.

Since the bushing handed to me didn't have the right ID, I started thinking that it might not have the right OD either...and it might be the 'mongrel bushing from another planet'.

I know that MSD supplies a couple of different bushing sizes for the 'stop bushing' in their distributors (have one in a Ford race car), and they're color coded by size/degrees of 'stop limit'. (black = 28 deg max, silver = 24 deg max, etc). Just sorta wondering what the 'stock' size is on a Delco 1111069 distributor.
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Old Jan 22, 2007 | 04:08 PM
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Originally Posted by Don Keefhardt
Yup...going to the brass/bronze bush, but .015 is too much of an 'interference fit'. With brass, something like .005 interference is enough to keep it from falling off and falling into the wood chipper.

Since the bushing handed to me didn't have the right ID, I started thinking that it might not have the right OD either...and it might be the 'mongrel bushing from another planet'.

I know that MSD supplies a couple of different bushing sizes for the 'stop bushing' in their distributors (have one in a Ford race car), and they're color coded by size/degrees of 'stop limit'. (black = 28 deg max, silver = 24 deg max). Just sorta wondering what the 'stock' size is on a Delco 1111069 distributor.
I dunno, but for $2.00 I'd spring for the LICS part (that's below their Credit Card minimum, however) unless you have a real McGuyver need burning inside of you to create one.
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Old Jan 22, 2007 | 04:21 PM
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Not really a "McGuyver moment"...prolly about 5 minutes on the lathe, including a coffee break.
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Old Jan 22, 2007 | 05:25 PM
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Originally Posted by Don Keefhardt
Not really a "McGuyver moment"...prolly about 5 minutes on the lathe, including a coffee break.
Rather than spinning the lathe, pop the bushing into boiling water and the distributor into the freezer. Prepare the workbench to allow quick removal of both before joining the two with some pliers.

On the potential to get a true 24 degrees of crank advance the choice of bushing diameter is a crap shoot unless you know the wear limit of the timing slot. You can use a distributor machine to check the final movement, or get close with a simple compass. My eyes are no longer good enough to get an easy fix on rotor plate movement, but 12 degrees of rotor plate movement = 24 crank degrees (it used to get me real close if I scribed the rotation range out on a bench).

Always make a final check of the total centrifugal advance and opening rate (degrees advance per rpm curve) with a dial-back timing-light or with an indexed crank balancer.

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Old Jan 22, 2007 | 07:00 PM
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does the pin have a groove cut in?

Some of the old dist kits had slip on bushings then used a "C" clip to hold it on the pin. The pin had a groove cut in to accept the clip.
those were nice because you can change the bushings trial and error tuning.
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Old Jan 23, 2007 | 10:42 AM
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Originally Posted by joe58
does the pin have a groove cut in?
Bingo. When I first pulled it apart, I was trying to figure out what the groove was for. Then it dawned on me....DUH.

Couldnt' find a source for 'slip-fit' stop bushings...so maybe I'll just turn up an assortment and fiddle. It's 15 degrees and snowing...not like I'm going to be driving it any time soon.
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Old Jan 23, 2007 | 11:38 AM
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My advance spring is the only thing holding my pin and bushing in. If I take off the spring the bushing, pin and clip fall out. I should just replace the bushing? The car has 36 degrees total timing and seems to be advancing normally. Could this be where my miss above 3200 rpms is comming from? Does anyone know if the bushing is the same size for a 73 l48 vette? That is where the distributor came from.(other car)
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