I am doing a "frame off" restoration and am having difficulty installing the front springs. I have tried two different types of coil spring compressor tools with no success (cannot remove compressor once spring is in place). Any ideas would be greatly appreciated.

 

I just did a pair of springs last summer they go in real easy Use one compressor inside the spring. The type with two hooks and a rod. tighten the comp. until the spring bends into a slight c shape. at this point you should be able to push spring into place. Pe shure spring aligns with notches in frame

 

Here is a procedure I copied from a post some time ago (slightly modified by me). Reverse it to remove the spring. I've used this general technique, modified slightly by using parts of an internal ("finger" style) spring compressor.

1. Assemble the spring into the lower A-arm, and prop the A-arm up to place the spring into it's upper socket, taking care to orient the spring properly. (note: see the shop manual for instructions on proper radial alignment of the spring in it's perch)

2. Insert a long threaded steel rod, 3 ft x 1/2 in or 3 ft x 5/8 in dia through the frame shock mount hole on top, and drop it down through the shock mount hole on the bottom A-arm, with about 2 inches extending beyond the lower A-arm. The rod diameter will be determined by what size rod you can fit through the shock mount hole on top; you can purchase threaded rod at any hardware store.

3. Install a couple of large thick washers on the rod, atop the upper shock mount, followed by three nuts (Lock the top two nuts together as a safety factor). Grease the rod just below the locked nuts for about 3 or 4 inches, and grease between the washers.

4. Find something with a hole in it (large enough for the threaded rod to pass through) to cover the shock hole in the lower A-arm... I've used a 3 inch pipe flange for that. So now the threaded rod extends down through the upper shock mount, through the spring, through the lower A-arm, and through the pipe flange, with perhaps 2 inches of rod showing below the pipe flange. Place a couple of large heavy-duty washers and two nuts on the portion of the rod extending out below the pipe flange; lock the two nuts tightly together with a pair of wrenches.

5. Tighten the lowest (loose) nut on the top of the rod against the frame shock mount to lift the lower A-arm and compress the spring until you can install the ball joints.

6. Install the ball joints, then loosen and remove the threaded rod, and install the shock.

 

Here's what you need. Borrow one or make one. The clamp types are almost impossible to use. Chuck

 

Chuck,

Is that one of those precision extractions tools you use on wisdom teeth?

 

I've done the same thing by taking an internal spring compressor apart and removing the non-threaded block and two hooks. Put a couple of very heavy washers below the hex head, lubricated with anti-sieze and feed the rod down through the top shock mount hole. Thread on the lower block and hooks, set the spring in the upper pocket and hook the hooks in the spring. Then just crank it up at the shock mount to compress it. The only trick is to be sure to set the hooks about 3 or 4 coils from the bottom of the spring so that the lower control arm spring pocket won't prevent disengaging the hooks after tightening the ball joint bolts. Then unthread the bolt out of the block and slip the hooks and block out of the lower shock mount hole in the a-arm.

Dan

 

That's the Pat Kraus, Bel Air Corvette Club, Mason Dixon NCRS custom spring "tool". Chuck

 

Thanks for the great ideas! I ended up using the all thread with plate on the bottom and had one done Sunday night. I have another question for piece of mind though - when placing the spring into the perch or socket, should the end of the spring be 3/8" from stop up in the socket (or perch) or 3/8" from stop on lower A arm? Does it matter?

 

It sounds like you've been reading from the shop manual. The manual procedure is to clamp and compress the spring first to the lower control arm then rotate it up into the frame pocket. Then it says to fit it for 3/8 inch clearance so I believe they mean at the top. I may be wrong (again) but I believe JohnZ answered this last year and said to fit it for 3/8 in. clearance at the top.

Dan

 

The spring is seated only at the top, 3/8" from the stop in the frame pocket, as shown in the assembly manual; the hole in the recess in the lower control arm is only for water drainage, and is unrelated to spring seating.