Was it JohnZ....Solid Lifter Valve Adjustments
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 393
Likes: 1
From: Long Island, New York
Was it JohnZ....Solid Lifter Valve Adjustments
Was it JohnZ who put out a paper on how to set the valve last cold for a solid lifter motor?
Either way, please post it if you got it. I've done my hot and it is just a PITA.
The specs for my cam are .018 for exhaust and intake. What should I use cold? .020
Either way, please post it if you got it. I've done my hot and it is just a PITA.
The specs for my cam are .018 for exhaust and intake. What should I use cold? .020
Safety Car
Joined: Aug 2000
Posts: 4,148
Likes: 642
From: Bandera Texas
The Bill "grumpy" Jenkins Way
.008 and .018 intake and exhaust. Warm engine, and then remove valve covers and coil wire. If possible have a friend 'bump' the starter to get # 1 to top dead center
As suggested bring #1 cylinder up to TDC. Either # 1 or #6 will be at center when the timing mark on the dampner is at "0" on the timing marker. Feel both rocker arms to see if both valves are loose. IF both are either #1 or #6 is at TDC.
WITH #1 UP
ADJUST
EXHAUST- 1,3,4,8
INTAKE- 1,2,5,7
ROTATE ENGINE ONE FULL TURN AND BRING # 6 UP TO TDC
WITH # 6 UP
ADJUST
EXHAUST- 2,5,6,7
INTAKE- 3,4,6,8
It will take a little practice to feel the feeler gauge 'pull' between the valve stem and rocker. You will however, discovwer a loose valve will be very sloopy. Tighten the rocker nut until snug and the push rod will not spin, then reverse the nut to loosen until the clearance is snug on the .008 and .018 feeler gauge.
Old Grumpy taught me years ago how to do this. He used to adjust his valves between each race at the drags. Still works today.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 6,048
Likes: 5
From: "cutesy" TN
Team Owner
Joined: Mar 2003
Posts: 26,118
Likes: 1,874
From: Greenville, Indiana
Bryan:
The method Ironcross described will work fine for you. That's the way I do it. I'ts easier for me to keep track of what I've done and what I haven't. It'll work for the 30-30 too. You just have to be more careful about where the valves are and their relative positions.
Race Director
Joined: Nov 2002
Posts: 12,142
Likes: 54
From: Taylor Michigan
The original DUNTOV solid lifter camshaft had adjustment settings of
.008 and .018 intake and exhaust. Warm engine, and then remove valve covers and coil wire. If possible have a friend 'bump' the starter to get # 1 to top dead center
As suggested bring #1 cylinder up to TDC. Either # 1 or #6 will be at center when the timing mark on the dampner is at "0" on the timing marker. Feel both rocker arms to see if both valves are loose. IF both are either #1 or #6 is at TDC.
WITH #1 UP
ADJUST
EXHAUST- 1,3,4,8
INTAKE- 1,2,5,7
ROTATE ENGINE ONE FULL TURN AND BRING # 6 UP TO TDC
WITH # 6 UP
ADJUST
EXHAUST- 2,5,6,7
INTAKE- 3,4,6,8
It will take a little practice to feel the feeler gauge 'pull' between the valve stem and rocker. You will however, discovwer a loose valve will be very sloopy. Tighten the rocker nut until snug and the push rod will not spin, then reverse the nut to loosen until the clearance is snug on the .008 and .018 feeler gauge.
Old Grumpy taught me years ago how to do this. He used to adjust his valves between each race at the drags. Still works today.
.008 and .018 intake and exhaust. Warm engine, and then remove valve covers and coil wire. If possible have a friend 'bump' the starter to get # 1 to top dead center
As suggested bring #1 cylinder up to TDC. Either # 1 or #6 will be at center when the timing mark on the dampner is at "0" on the timing marker. Feel both rocker arms to see if both valves are loose. IF both are either #1 or #6 is at TDC.
WITH #1 UP
ADJUST
EXHAUST- 1,3,4,8
INTAKE- 1,2,5,7
ROTATE ENGINE ONE FULL TURN AND BRING # 6 UP TO TDC
WITH # 6 UP
ADJUST
EXHAUST- 2,5,6,7
INTAKE- 3,4,6,8
It will take a little practice to feel the feeler gauge 'pull' between the valve stem and rocker. You will however, discovwer a loose valve will be very sloopy. Tighten the rocker nut until snug and the push rod will not spin, then reverse the nut to loosen until the clearance is snug on the .008 and .018 feeler gauge.
Old Grumpy taught me years ago how to do this. He used to adjust his valves between each race at the drags. Still works today.
Not bad if you have until next Sunday to get ready for the next round that you should be ready for with in a hour.. This will take you all day and into next week to finish a lash job. No racer would ever use this proceedure more that once!
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Racer
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 346
Likes: 2
From: Bellevue WA
The way you described is the way I was taught by Jerry "The King" Ruth. Ever heard of him?
You are right about getting ready for next round. On our blown alcohol car, if the guy was spending more than 5 minutes on the valve lash checking / adjustment, we sent him back to tire wiper status.
Team Owner
Joined: Mar 2003
Posts: 26,118
Likes: 1,874
From: Greenville, Indiana
Edit: I guess I should add that "the all day, and into next week" method would be very accurate. Especially for somebody that doesn't quite understand the relationship between the valves opening/closing and piston position.
Last edited by MikeM; Mar 7, 2007 at 11:30 AM.
Safety Car
Joined: Aug 2000
Posts: 4,148
Likes: 642
From: Bandera Texas
You must admit that you don't have to bump 16 valves to get each to its open and close.
Oh well, I got the message..........I will just shut up.
