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I recently installed a new headlight switch on my dash cluster. I haven't completed the re-wiring process yet, but last night I noticed that the headlight **** doesn't pull out as far as it used to. What could be wrong?
I recently installed a new headlight switch on my dash cluster. I haven't completed the re-wiring process yet, but last night I noticed that the headlight **** doesn't pull out as far as it used to. What could be wrong?
do the lights work correctly? if so, don't worry about it...
Bill
From: Park City to SoCal - according to the map it's all down hill. No bad days in Indian Wells, California
I did the same thing and noticed that the new one seemed to have less total travel from off to headlights on. I compared the old to the new switch and they looked the same. Actually measured the travel distance and it was less than 1/8 inch, but the feel was much firmer with new switch. Old switch was worn so much that I think it was more a perception and some wiggle room than actual difference in the travel.
If all the lights work as you know they should...... the job is done.
I really don't know if the lights work or not. I'm haven't finished the new harness yet. The **** only comes out to approximately where the parking lights would be (one click).
I was ordering a few parts from Ecklers today and their Tech person told me the same thing. Take it out and put it in again. Hope it works. Thanks guys!!
I was ordering a few parts from Ecklers today and their Tech person told me the same thing. Take it out and put it in again. Hope it works. Thanks guys!!
we are still talkin about the headlight switch? right?
Now I'm having the opposite problem. I was able to press the release button under the switch and I reinserted the pull switch for the lights. Now I get no resistance. It pulls completely out. If I turn the cluster upside down it falls out. Please don't tell me that I broke the new headlight switch!!!!
I had a new switch that broke just that way - won't hold the headlight **** in anymore.
The one that broke was from LectricLimited. I purchased it when we thought my epic wiring issues in my 65 were all tied to my headlight swtich. After installing the LectricLimited switch, my wiring issues persisted and this new switch failed to capture the headlight **** after about a dozen insertion/removal events (keep it clean fellas)
After it broke, I put my original "new" switch back in - it was from Long Island Corvette Supply and still works fine.
Thanks Jeff. Crap!!!! Looks like I order another switch. I think I got the last one from Paragon $16 or $18. Does LIC have a better product?
One other quick question. During the course of your project, did you try to restore anything else in your interior? I ordered new bezels for the radio and heater controls from Paragon. They were pretty cheap and the look cheap too. Does anybody else offer bezels that look good and don't cost $200.
From: Park City to SoCal - according to the map it's all down hill. No bad days in Indian Wells, California
I got my headlight switch at a local shop. GM used the same switch for many years and it was an easy over the counter deal - $22 bucks.
Also, I got bezels and spacers for my radio and heater controls from Corvette America. They are a little less than perfect chrome wise - just a tad bit duller, but they look really close to original - 64 orig that is. The pictures in the catalogues do not always reflect the actual product.
One other quick question. During the course of your project, did you try to restore anything else in your interior?
I replaced the following items in my interior while I had my dash apart for wiring:
A/C vent hoses
A/C and Heater seals
Firewall insulation
Little green covers on heater control light bulbs
Glove box liner
Speedo and Tach cables
Heater core
Headlight switch (twice)
Radio speaker
Vacuum hoses on A/C system
I also had the instruments, clock, and radio restored.
Jeff, I really appreciate your replies as welll as everyone elses. You have been very helpful. It sounds like you have encountered many of the frustrating problems that I have. It was almost 75 here today. I was pumped. I couldn't wait to get home and start to put the dash back together. I was dreaming about fiing up the car this weekend. BUT NO!!! Another glitch. I guess that's why they make beer.
The headlight switch is a pretty simple affair internally. You might be able to remove the switch, and whack it a few times on the work bench and see if it will properly capture your headlight **** again.
The switch may not be broken. The piece that latches the ****/shaft in the switch assembly slides back and forth with the shaft. When you pull the ****/shaft out to its fully on position, that piece slides forward and lines up under the release button. You push the button and can remove the ****/shaft. If you then happen to push the ****/shaft back in too far without pushing down on the button, you can push that latch piece out of alignment with the button. I would guess that jarring the switch assembly hard enough could do the same thing. This happened to me once -- I took apart the switch assembly, pushed that latch piece back forward in alignment with the button, put it back together, and it all worked just fine.
After looking at it again, I really think that it's broke. When I first installed it, it would only pull out about 1/2 inch, no further. I gently depressed the release button and pulled it completely out. When I put it back in, it slid in completely, with no resistance. No it just pull out completely and as I said in an earlier post, it falls out when I flip the cluster over. Even though I'm pretty sure that it's broken, I don't see how I could have done it. Make it was defective. I bought it from Ecklers, not Paragon.
The saga continues. I went to work today fully prepared to call and order a new headlight switch. I just kept thinking, how could I have broken the other one.So I didn't order a new one. As soon as I got home, I took the switch out of the cluster and re-inserted the ****. It worked perfectly. Put in back in the cluster and it would only pull out 1/2 inch. Took it out again, it worked perfectly. After repeating this processs about five times, I think I've narrowed it down to the switch bolt that holds it into the cluster. Is it possible that it isn't seating properly? It has to be the correct part, I think that they only made one switch bolt for all 63-67. Any suggestions?
Whoa!!! I think I figured it out. It's the ****. My car is a 63. The cluster as well as the **** are from a 65. I think that the 63 **** is slightly longer than a 65. I'll order it tonight. Stay tuned.