My son's home for Spring Break, so we got the hood off to refinish the underside. Most of the paint is bubbled and flaking off. Under the paint is a purple, maybe primer? Anyway, this is a definite driver, so I am not concerned with a perfect finish, but want it smooth. Am considering sanding as much of the paint off as possible, but don't want to get into the glass. There are some spots were the paint is not bubbled and considering sanding, but not removing. Is it o.k. to use glaze to feather the edges of the paint I leave on? I know to use a semi-matte black for the under side, but should I use a high heat paint, or special paint? Do I need to use a primer? I have a nice large decal of my logo to put on when I'm done! Almost forgot, how do I remove the pins?

 

Did my '67 BB hood last year and found out that years of greese and grime was embeded into the glass. I started out using a good soap (dawn) and lots of water. Thought it was clean but no way would paint stick. I then tried a auto paint degreaser and it got most but not all. Next I tried lacquer thinner and still had some left. Sooo! I finally sanded it down with 180 until it was all gone. Next I applied two coats of spray polyester. Then block sanded with 360. Next came another coat of urathane primer and a wet sanding with 600. Surface is jet slick smooth and now ready for final painting. Maybe this is overkill but I will stick by the fact that it must be squeeky clean before any paint is applied or it will never stick long term. Maybe others have a better cleaning method and will chime in with tips.
Note this is over retoration and will cost you points at a NCRS judging. They like the rough texture of the glass as the factory did very little other than get it covered with semiflat black and overspray.
PS. Just did the back of my "62 yesterday. Power washed it first then went to the sanding steps. Sorry for the long post but the end result will please you.
To remove the pins get a big screw driver put it in the slot and turn the base ring counter clockwise and it will screw out. I use a block of wood and a hammer to turn the ring. Hope this will help.

Earl

 

The still adhering primer is probably a good sign that you may not have oil contamination in the fiberglass. Probably just poor adhesion between the primer and finish coat. You can use a glazing putty to level transition areas and flaws but I would not be afraid to give it a good sanding even if you get down to fiberglass. I would try to get as much of the old black paint off that you can. Then I would use a primer coat since you will have a mixture of bare fiberglass, old primer and putty surfaces that will possibly show up slightly different when covered with paint. If anything shows through the primer, you can go over it with sandpaper again and the finish coat will probably hide it.

 

Thanks for the advise guys!

 

 

Started sanding and wasn't getting very far in most areas, except on the back ledge and went right to the glass! Decided to try the razor trick and it's working great so far. Most of the paint is dry and flaking off with the blade easily. The black paint seems to have penitrated the primer in some areas, leaving a slight shadow if you will. Some areas of black paint are fairly permanant and won't scrape or sand off easily. Didn't want to get too aggresive in these areas. Found a lot of scraps and dings under the paint, which I'll glaze. Should I just feather the paint that is not cooperating, or get more aggresive with the blade? I am not going to refinish the outside, so no strippers!

Since I am going to have some areas where the glass will be raw, do I need to treat this with anything before priming?