If you have new radials installed, make sure that the tech installs the tire so that the white(normally, but some time a different color is used) dot stamped on the side wall is aligned with the tire valve. If they are aligned then the out of roundness of the rim is offset by the out of roundness of the tire. If they happen to install the dot 180 degrees from the valve stem then the out of roundness is compounded. Surprising how many tire techs don't know what the purpose of the ink dot on the side wall is for. Even Walmart knows what it's for. The last set of Goodyears I had installed, they had all four lined up perfectly, so I know it wasn't by chance, since all four were lined up and they use anti-seize on the studs, use a torque wrench with a second tech double checking the first with another torque wrench.

 

Could not agree more...I put a set of the DB's Firestone Supreme redlines on my 67 and the difference was astounding. The ride was so much improved and the low speed steering was amazing (non p/s car here). So save the bias tires for when/if you ever decide to do an NCRS show but get the DB's for every day driving....you'll be glad you did.

 

Interesting information. . . .

Pulled out the shop alignment specs and compared that to the Factory Assembly Manual. Looks like the caster goal in the shop computer is a bit negative. Best I can tell it is using the caster from the 66-67 (1 degP) instead of the 63 (1.5 degP). That should make the car a bit more stable overall. I'll take it back to the shop next week.

I also found that there is quite a bit of play between the steering column collar and the dash. It looks like there is supposed to be a rubber edge seal around the dash to help reduce vibration and take up some slack? That might explain my "ringing" steering wheel. Got that on order. . .

Next steps:
- adjust caster 0.5 deg more positive
- check wheel trueness
- replace rag joint
- try and tighten steering column mounting
- look at exhaust mounting.

The BFG Silvertowns in the car don't have a DOT stamp. Also the blue gunk is quite a bit different than todays stuff. It is more like a grease (still wet) than a dried paint on todays tires. The previous owner bought the car in 66 with less than 8000 miles. Forgot the pictures . . .

I'm hearing you guys on the radials, but I guess that is not the answer I was hoping for. I kind of like the idea of having the car as close to the day it rolled off the factory floor as possible. Not garage queen, but of the period. Anybody else running bias plys on a driver or am I the oddball?

Thanks everyone, keep em coming.

 

Try these specs from JohnZ and I have used the advanced search function for this and other comments from him.

http://forums.corvetteforum.com/show...post1548849543

- Good Luck

Andy

 

Why deny yourself the enjoyment of driving the car without having to make steering corrections every second? Originality is a great goal, but 40-year-old bias-ply tire technology is NOT. You will tire VERY soon of driving the car on bias tires.

 

edited

 

I think i have seen these dots before.

Are they ever anythign else?

i just ahd a couple tires put on a trailer, and I don't see any dots, just a painted/stamped BH and somethign different on the blackwall side of other tire.

What about mag wheels, those shouldn't have any out of roundness?

Do steel wheel manufacturers locate the valve steM hole on the high spot as a marker?

I would think with modern manufacturing techniques, that wheels wouldn't have high or low spots.

Doug

 

From my Wheel Vibration article in the March, 2006 issue of "Corvette Enthusiast" magazine:

"RADIAL FORCE VARIATION issues are addressed on new cars by “match-mounting”, where the OEM wheel manufacturer marks the wheel at its lowest point of radial runout, the OEM tire manufacturer marks the tire at its point of highest radial force variation, and those two marks are automatically aligned in the plant when the tire is mounted to the wheel in order to minimize the radial force variation of the tire/wheel assembly when new. Aftermarket wheels and tires are a whole different ball game, as various schemes and markings are used by different wheel and tire manufacturers, and some don’t mark them at all."

When you're ready, take your tires/wheels to a shop that has a Hunter GSP-9700 balancer (shop locator at www.gsp9700.com); no other machine comes close.

 

Todd, I just realized I had a message from you, but for some reason I can't reply by that method.

I am running radials. Let us know if the exhaust hanger resolves the problem. If it does that would be the second one I've seen.

Thanks
Harry

 

I think I am the only guy on the forum who likes his bias plies.......

 

Well enough that I can raise my arms above the windshield header bar when cresting hills on Power Tour. It's "straight as an arrow".

I have never seen my car without radial tires, and I keep them inflated to the max.

 

it doesn't, , rear end assy is out. However, before I removed it for restoration it drop flawlessly

 

Radials. Fat ones.

 

"I'm hearing you guys on the radials, but I guess that is not the answer I was hoping for. I kind of like the idea of having the car as close to the day it rolled off the factory floor as possible. Not garage queen, but of the period. Anybody else running bias plys on a driver or am I the oddball?"

JohnZ is right for a daily driver.

However my questions are:
What do you use your Corvette for, and
How many miles do you drive per year?

IF you are an "aggressive driver", and drive less than 5000 to 7000 miles per year (sunny weekends)...and NEVER in the rain, then my recommendation is to buy Hoosier Street TD tires in the appropriate size to fit your car. NOTE: these are RACE tires, and must be warmed up prior to sporting driving.