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My 64 won't start after getting warm!
Note: rebuilt 383 engine with new dist,points,coil And high torque starter.
Could it be that the starter does not have the R terminal wire to the coil? or could the ballast resistor be going bad?
The engine will crank but not fire after warming up, but if I jump 12 volts to the coil while cranking it will fire up.
Could it be that the starter does not have the R terminal wire to the coil?
Steve
Yes.
"high torque starter" is not needed unless you are running 12:1 compression and a short cam. My 427 (180 psi cranking compression) uses an off the shelf reman starter from the FLAPS.
Last edited by 67L36Driver; Mar 24, 2007 at 10:02 AM.
Could it be that the starter does not have the R terminal wire to the coil? or could the ballast resistor be going bad?
The engine will crank but not fire after warming up, but if I jump 12 volts to the coil while cranking it will fire up.
Steve
If that's one of those goofy hot-rod starters that doesn't have an "R" terminal, put the 18-ga. black/pink bypass wire on the same terminal as the purple "start" wire; you're not getting power to the coil when cranking. Your resistor is fine.
Next time its hot remove Pink/black wire from + side of coil and measre voltage at that terminal.
Also measure ballast resistor ohms Opitmal is 1.2 ohms. Get a new one
at Napa Standard Ignition part number RU4.
Get rid of the pionts setup. From M&H Fabricators WWW.Wiringharness.com get the points eliminator setup and a new coil
I fixed it today I found the fix from another starter mfgs. troubleshooting tips.
You can simulate the R wire with a diode (10a/250 volt) wired from the motor side of the solenoid to the + on the coil.
It worked like a charm!
Oh Im using the oldschool points due to a pertronics quitting after about two weeks af use.
IMO Pertronics is JUNK. The M&H unit is a 1 wire and highly reliable. I've installed over a dozen on several different cars not one with a failure.
Call them up and talk to Tom if you have doubts