Getting ready to slow down the working part of my life soon, never really had time to vacation much or go to distant car shows. But always wanted to. Long story short, I've ordered a new enclosed car trailer from Pace and intend to trailer my 66 up to Reno this August for Hot August Nights from SoCal for my maiden voyage. It's about a 10 hour drive. My question is this. Where are the best points to attach hold down straps to the car. I'm keeping in mind that I've just finished a refinish of the car and that includes my chasis and it's pretty. I don't want to mar it up if I can help it. I have the spare tire carrier out of the car and it looks like that cross member would be good to attach to in the rear. The front is the quandary, I'm not really wanting to strap anything to my powder coated A-Arms and the like. If anybody has experience with towing their C2 I'd appreciate any expertise that you might be willing to share. Regards, Marv

 

I strap my cars at the lower a arm, and around the half shafts - the straps I use have padding that so far hasn't made any marks on the car. But I keep thinking there may be a better way to do it.

 

Your best bet is to get these hooks from Northern Tool Co. They will fit in slots at the front and rear of your C2 that are specifically made (and reinforced) for tie down use. Check this forum thead for additional information and pictures of the slot locations. I use them in my trailer and they make the tie down process a breeze.
Roy

 

Thank you Roy. The info you supplied was everything I could have asked for. Regards, Marv

 

That is how the factory towed them. I had my 66 towed last week and the driver had the hooks and they worked great.

 

Please don't strap to your halfshafts. This puts the load on the differential bearings, u-joints, and trailing arm wheel bearings. Even the front a-arms are not the best, as this loads the lower inner bushings excessively.

The best is to connect to the frame, using the hooks for the frame holes.

You might also read this:
http://www.geocities.com/MotorCity/D....html#Securing

 

Followed this thread from C3...

Didn't the factory put wooden blocks between the frame and suspension do the car wouldn't bounce an loosen the straps?
I thought it was in the AIM

I've always heard to tie down the suspension not the frame so the bouncing doesn't snap the straps...

 

 

my own journey into this land of debate, see my post #4 in this thread:

http://forums.corvetteforum.com/show...ps+hooks+frame

actually, there are a couple areas of hot debate embedded in this topic:

- Tie down at the frame or tie the wheels down?

- If the frame, where?

- Criss-cross the straps?

- Car in gear - e-brake on? Or rolling free?

warning, seems to get passionate . . . .

 

I always thought trailers were for boats!! Learn something everyday!!

Cheers
Steve

 

yeah, me too - but I needed a way to bring my C2, as well as my wife and two kids, and their assorted gear, to a week long vacation upstate NY where I wanted to have my C2 there as well for a big show (that I DROVE to in the C2) - solution was to trailer it behind my Avalanche to where we were staying for the week (my dad's house).

the other alternative - me drive the 65 up and back while my wife drove the Av or her Envoy - met with resistance from "she who shall be obeyed"

 

Nope, factory shipping never used any blocks; just used the hooks shown above, in the correct reinforced holes in the frame, and cinched down the ratchet-mounted tie-down chains.

 

On 18 wheel transports, for factory shipping, the chains are attached
to the FRAME using hooks similar to the hooks above.. or better yet
"R" hooks... the hooks shown above are "T" hooks.

The chains are ratcheted tight and the suspension is compressed...
(shocks and springs)... this way if the chains loosen some during
transport the suspension (which is trying to return to it's normal ride
height) will take up some of the slack.

The chains themselves should be pulled
1. 1 or 2 pulling forward
2. and 1 or 2 pulling backward

The main forces acting on the car will be forward (braking) and backward(acceleration).. not side to side... the car should be in gear (manual)with parking brake on.... automatic..parking brake on as well.

I have never seen a solid mounted axle on a trailer... all trailers
have spring, coil, or air ride suspensions.... the idea that the
chains should ever be left loose is crazy..and a good way to have
your chains or straps come off although I've seen that idea mentioned
with much passion here on this Forum..

The reason you DON'T leave 'em loose...is what is refered to
as "Double Bounce".... just like when you were on a trampoline as
a kid and you could send your friends higher by landing on the tramp
right before he landed..
The cars suspension and the trailers suspension end up working
against each other and it will eventually send your car to the
moon..

Many trucks these days are switching to tire straps... which is fine
when they are applied tightly..

 

We'll be driving a Rally Red 1966 Convertible with a red interior and AC! Look for us at the Peppermill and the cruise nights in Sparks and downtown Reno!

 

This may be a dumb question, but where do the hooks go in the frame. I thought they went into the slots in the rear of the side rails, but the side pipes mount there. Do you use them in the front and rear and, if so, where to they grab the frame?

Thanks,

Doc

 

Check this thread for a complete description & photos where the slots are. This is a picture of the rear slot.
Roy

 

you'll know they're the correct ones to use if they appear reinforced from behind . . .

 

Thanks, I don't know how I missed that post the first time around. Must have been one of those senior moments. I am going to order some hooks today.

Doc