Plasticman

OK, started to drain the old grease/lube out of the C1 steering box (while still in the Vette). Grease/oil is either a very-very thick oil, or diluted grease - take your pick. Also has some small non ferrous semi-gritty "chunks" in it. Have not seen any metallic particles. Note that the steering box feels great, and does not need a rebuild, so I do not want to take it apart (leave well enough alone - if it ain't broke, don't "fix" it). I only want to get the old grease/oil out and refill it. I will refill it with a Moly EP grease.

Now is the problem of getting the "majority" of the old stuff out. I am draining it out via the lowest side cover bolt hole (no drain plugs in these things). It is coming out very slowly (probably have 1/4 cup since I started 6 hours ago, and it is still oozing out).

Was thinking of flushing out the old box with alcohol, but am concerned with leaving some of the alcohol still in the box (which is not a very good lube). I would then blow out the remaining "stuff" with air. I am sure some our members have had these boxes apart, and was wondering their thoughts before doing this. Any concerns with this approach? Will air blowing the alcohol/oil/grease force it into areas that I don't want it to go (such as up the column)?

And no, I don't want to remove the side cover (don't have a gasket, and don't want to reset the adjustment either). But that sure would make it easier!

Thanks,
Plasticman

K2

I think I would forget the alchohol and just drain the grease out as best you can. You could apply low pressure air into the mast where the turn signal wires come out to help keep everything going the right direction and to help eject the old sludge. When I did mine I put in Red Line Assembly Lube. It seems to work great and no leaking what so ever. I rebuilt mine so I had it out and on the bench.

DZAUTO

Remove the filler plug, AND, as you have already done, remove the lowest side cover bolt.
Apply some LOW pressure air to the filler plug hole to shove out the bulk of the old grease.
The filler plug hole is (I believe) 3/8in pipe thread and a grease fitting is 1/8in pipe thread. Locate a bushing or reducer brass fitting which is 3/8 pipe outside thread and 1/8 pipe thread inside. Weatherhead brand (sold by NAPA) makes a 3/8 to 1/8 bushing which is part number: 3220X6X2
Screw a grease fitting into the reducer and screw the reducer into the filler hole.
Pump the box full of new grease and it will shove the old grease out the bolt hole. If you have a hand pump grease gun, this may take 2-3 tubes of grease to shove out the old and replace it with new.
This method makes this chore incredibly simple.

Plasticman

Thanks guys!

I have a "kit" from Corvette Central that includes both a tube of grease and a grease fitting that screws into the bottom side cover bolt hole, and was going to use that. But that would force the old grease up both the column and some out the top filler plug hole. I like your ideas better! At least gravity will work in my favor as well, and hopefully limit the amount of grease going up the column.

I can easily make up both the air pressure adapter and the grease fitting adapter for the top NPT filler plug hole.

Think I will get off the internet, and get my butt in gear making some adapters.

Plasticman

Plasticman

Finished the grease job (using the fill hole with an air fitting to blow the old grease out the bottom side cover bolt hole, and using a grease fitting at the fill hole to pump the new grease in), and all went well. Only needed the one tube of grease, and it brought out the remaining old grease, and then turned nice and "clean".

Thanks again,
Plasticman

bigblock67

Great ideas.. Since my box is now on the bench, could I fill it with cover off on its side, then put it together. Like Ron Popeal says
"Set it and forget it". Shouldn't have to revisit it for..long time. Right?

kenmo

John would you happen to know the CC part number.... Please don't go to any efforts if you don't as I can probably find it on the CC website...

Though the 3/8 to 1/8 bushing/reducer sounds like a better option...

Cheers to all

Ken

Plasticman

Ken,

I would do the same method again (forcing the grease out the bottom side cover bolt hole with air pressure, and then filling from the top to drive the remaining "stuff" out the bottom).

The CC Steering Box Grease & Fitting Kit is p/n 561165 (for 53-62), and is now $24.95.

http://www.parts123.com/parts123/yb....rta~partsort~1

Note that it was $12.55 in my catalog (#1E). Guess I need a new catalog!

Plasticman

Plasticman

As long as you get enough grease in to submerge the gears and bearings, it should work great. Without a top seal on the C1 boxes, you don't want to overfill "too" much, or the grease will come up the shaft tube (into your lab), but that would be A LOT of GREASE!

Plasticman

GCD1962

Instead of alcohol use kerosene - it cuts the grease and crap much better. Ia've cleaned out a lot of trans in old cars by filling with kero, running in slightly then draining never a problem. With steering box, fill it with kero, work the wheel back and forth for a few minuters, then drain as suggested and force through new grease as recommended.

Plasticman

George,

I did not use alcohol (as I first mentioned, it was just an idea). The kerosene would still leave a residue, but it would have more lubricity than residual alcohol.

Since my box was filled with a semi-fluid "lube", the long drain (overnight), air blow from the top fill port (which is limited due to the col. not being sealed, but the force of the air flowing through the open drain does carry old fluid with it) , and then grease pumping through got most of the old stuff out. "If" I have to do it again, the kerosene is a good idea. Think a light wgt. (anywhere from 0 to 20 wgt., with the lighter, the better) detergent motor oil would work well too.

Thanks,
Plasticman

bigblock67

Do you have a grease preference?

Plasticman

Yep, EP (extreme pressure) chassis grease that is moly fortified. The grease that Corvette Central supplied was perfect for the application (in my view). It was Pennzoil #302

Below is from the Pennzoil website:http://www.pennzoil.com/products/greases/index.html

Pennzoil® Multi-Purpose 302 EP With Moly.

A water-resistant, multifunctional grease for a variety of applications. Automotive applications include steering and chassis suspension parts, ball joints and wheel bearings of vehicles equipped with conventional brakes (excluding disc brakes). This product has excellent water resistance and can be used for boat-trailer wheel bearings. Black in color. For disc brake and ABS applications, please use Pennzoil® Premium Wheel Bearing 707L Red Grease.

For more technical data, see product data sheets.

Other guys have used CV joint grease with good results.

Plasticman

GCD1962

A motor oil, even light weight will not Loosen any caked on grease. It will stay separate from the heavier stuff inside. The Kerosene acutally cuts, loosens, and thins out any of the stuff inside the box. You have to careful in pumping new grease in to get the old stuff out. If a more of the new goes in then old comes out, it might start to work up the tube creating a mess. When I change the frame on my '62 I took the box out to rebuild and then packed the new grease in before re-installing it. You said it was working ok, so I would just go easy in getting some new in and some old out and don't try to get all the old out.