Hello forum,

I have been chasing a spark problem on a 65 Fuelie starting with a no spark issue with a fairly new breakerless se system. Removed the breakerless, put in a set of points and had instant spark. Drove to a local show ( only 8 miles ) and the car would not run under aload after 5 minutes. nursed the car home, points looked like they went through hell....burnt, lookes like arcing on the point shaft etc.


What do I look for now that would cause this... coil is stock !
Distributor seems fine ( no wobble) dwell meter stayed stable at various rpm's.
by the way they were a uni-point system from a discount parts store

Help..summer is here finally in New England

 

When you went back to points after removing the breakerless ignition, did you ensure the ballast resistor was wired back in the circuit? Some breakerless ignition setups need the ballast to be bypassed. But bypassing the ballast in a points system I believe will burn the points up.

Here's a little diagram I made last year to clarify the wiring of the Pertronix versus Points systems

Jeff

 

Hi Jeff,

Yes, thanks. I used the brekerless Se system which uses the stock coil and the stock ballast, wired just as original.

 

Ok, then I'm at a loss. Sorry I couldn't help.

 

I'm going to assume the breakerless Ign unit was the one M&H Fabricators sells.
WHat ballast resistor are You running(Part number) what is its resistance? Measure it & report back please
Try doing this, reinstall breakerless Ign. Then pick up a new ballst resistor from Napa, Std Ign number RU-4 resistance should read about 1.2 ohms.
Remove wires from cars harness to + coil
Make a temporary harness from Batt + to new ballast resistor,Ballast resistor to the + coil. Your Ignition is now hot.
****To shut car off now after starting you'll need to disconnect the Temporay harness you just installed****
Start you car and se if it runs any better.
If your car runs better then you have either poor voltage going to the coil or a bad connection in your Ign/power circuit.
I went through this same scenario on a 65 awhile back.
Get back to us when you can

 

My son thinks the keys may have been left in the "on" position for about ten minutes while he was in the car.....Could that short a time wipe out the points

 

Phil,

it is a Breakerless SE ignition system
The ballast reistor is stock....

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Part # 38131

The BREAKERLESS-SE single wire ignition kit is designed to convert
all 1957-74 GM V8 engines equipped with window-style distributor cap,
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we have developed what we feel is the best. Lectric Limited offers
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Doubtful that leaving Ign on would cause points to burn.
Breakerless Ign unit will "turn off" after about 1 min if no motion past the pick-up windows occurs. It'll turn back "On" when it detect 3 vanes passing thru the window

 

Points pitting or leaving depoits on one side or the other of caontacs is caused by too high or too low voltage.
I have a feeling your ballast resitor is incorrect

 

Phil,

The car was running fine with the ballast resistor that had been in the car.

I just completed a major restoration and did not replace the resistor becauase it was fairly new, so the car ran fine before with this resistor.

The coil, ignition harness, and Breakerless Se ignition are new.

When I was refering to the keys being left on it was when I had replaced the Breakerless and the points were back in the car.

Thanks for the help

 

I understand what you're saying.
I was just informing you of one of the features of the Breakerless ign unit.
What is the value of the Ballast resistor?(Ohms)

 

Yes, the points can be burned by leaving the ignition "on", if the points are closed at that time, and a weak condenser can do the same thing with the engine running. Avoid the "Uniset" - try quality separate points and condenser like NAPA/Echlin CS786 or Standard DR-2371XP (points) and NAPA/Echlin RR175SB or Standard DR-70 (condenser). The points are the higher-tension (28-32 oz.) for high-rpm usage. Accel points and condenser are also high-quality replacements.

Your ballast resistor should measure about 1.8 ohms (with nothing connected to it); the earlier (pre-'64) ballast was 0.3 ohms and caused lots of point-burning problems. The new repro ballast resistor sold by Paragon (and some others) measures 1.8-2.3 ohms and works fine.

 

Info:
If the breakerless Ign unit doesn't see the minimum voltage required it will turn off. when it detects 3 vanes passing thru its windows it will turn back on.
This feature can cause a missfire or intermittent spark.

Running poorly after it gets up to temp or after its been running awhile indicates that resistance is building as something gets hot

 

Thanks everyone...I will get to work on this and get back to you.
I should have my replacement Breakerless parts tomorrow.

hopefully it was a bad module initially and then we burned the points by leaving the key on...at least I can blame my sixteen year old for that one.. !!

Thanks,
Steve

 

Did put a condenser in with the points ?

 

If after installing the new breakerless unit you still have trouble.
Give Tom at M&H Fabricatorsa call.
they designed the Breakerless SE units

 

Thanks for the heads up, I hope I don't need to call..

Just baffled why the points were shot so quick...

 

I did this on my 67 GTX by accident while bumping the motor around to check point gap. I think besides the points, it also shelled out the condensor too if I remember right - been a few years.

Dan

 

Yes Bob sorry... I replaced the breakerless with a uni-set of points and condeser

 

Thanks Dan...That's why I'm going to stick with the Breakerless SE system.
I've had the system in my big block chevelle for years and it has worked great. Nice easy installation too. I hope this was just a fluke !