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I have a 67 BB vert and I'm not real clear on the history of the car. From what I can see, it has never been wrecked. All of the body panels are straight and the gaps within what they should be. The problem I'm having is with the LF wheel rubbing the fender well when I cut the wheel and hit a bump, curb, etc. When I got the car, the same wheel was shimmed such that it was completely wearing out the inside of the tire. After a front suspension rebuild and alignment back to factory specs, this problem arose. I've since noticed that the RR wheel has less space/lateral clearance between the fender than the LR and the RF more than that of the LF. Is it possible that at some point in the car's history, the body was removed and not put back on straight? With the wheel clearances as they are, it appears that the body is cocked several degrees clockwise (from the top - nose being 12 o'clock). If so, what's the best way to fix it? If not, what could cause this? If I don't get something figured out I'm going to not only ruin my new tire but cause some serious body damage. Thanks in advance for any input.
It would be almost impossible to put the body back on crooked. There are 10 points on a 67 'vert where the body is connected to the frame.
That's what I thought but I wasn't sure if there are any tolerances on those mounts or if they were 100% fixed points. I've never had a body off before.
Actually, I know someone who put the body back on a 66 and it is not straight.. Was your car ever driven in snow? I grew up in a cold climate where we had snow about 5 months of the year and any car that went in the ditch and had to be pulled out had a cocked frame.. Usually you used a chain to yank the car back on the road and connected it to one side of the frame.. you get the picture... there was not usually body damage on the car, it was just stuck.. It could slide the rail back if it was pulled hard enough... Before you all tell me how strong the frames are, I had a 69 Caddy convertible with a giant X welded in the middle and it got bent being retrieved from sliding off the road.. I would check the frame for being square..
I just re-read your posting, my corvette guy tells me that a lot of these cars have questionable build quality (no kidding...) so maybe it just was never right?
Actually, I know someone who put the body back on a 66 and it is not straight.. Was your car ever driven in snow? I grew up in a cold climate where we had snow about 5 months of the year and any car that went in the ditch and had to be pulled out had a cocked frame.. Usually you used a chain to yank the car back on the road and connected it to one side of the frame.. you get the picture... there was not usually body damage on the car, it was just stuck.. It could slide the rail back if it was pulled hard enough... Before you all tell me how strong the frames are, I had a 69 Caddy convertible with a giant X welded in the middle and it got bent being retrieved from sliding off the road.. I would check the frame for being square..
I just re-read your posting, my corvette guy tells me that a lot of these cars have questionable build quality (no kidding...) so maybe it just was never right?
I do know the car was purchased new in Dayton, OH in Sept 66 and purchased by my father in 1991 in central Indiana. It's very possible it was driven in the snow at some point. What is the best way to check the squareness of the frame? Are there specific points i can measure or do I need to take it somewhere to have it placed on a rack?
My original '67, bought new in May '67, had the left front (drivers) tire rub lightly on a hard left turn, from the factory....aah the quality of a $5000 car!
My original '67, bought new in May '67, had the left front (drivers) tire rub lightly on a hard left turn, from the factory....aah the quality of a $5000 car!
My experience too. the straightest bodies and frames will have different tire clearances right to left, as much as 1/2". Its hard to apply modern fit and finish standards to a 40 year old car.
What size tires and what type of wheels do you have?
I was just going to ask the same. Because I have 215 on my car and the sometimes rub when I hit a bump or turn the wheel all the way.
I'm going to get 205 whe I change them.
I was just going to ask the same. Because I have 215 on my car and the sometimes rub when I hit a bump or turn the wheel all the way.
I'm going to get 205 whe I change them.
Shemp
No surprise to most on this Forum, but clearly there were variances in build tolerences on these old warriors. I'm running 215/70/15's on 7" Torq-Thrust D's with no rubbing at all, inside or outside, front or rear.
Not a lot of space on the rears, but no rubber-to-fiberglass or frame contact, even when traversing major bumps/pot holes.
If your car has 205 or 215 width tires on it, I'd say it's likely your tires will rub at full lock on the frame behind the suspension. If you have the "right size 6.70 x 15 tires" and you get a rub anywhere, front or rear you have a problem that needs addressing.
If this oversize tire analysis fits your car, quit worrying. Otherwise, you wind up with gray hair.
You really need to provide more information for a good answer like tire size, alignment settings and wheel size and offset. There's lots of Corvette guys in your neighborhood that can help you out.
I think Jim Kuzick (ex VV Cooke mechanic) lives out your way.
If your car has 205 or 215 width tires on it, I'd say it's likely your tires will rub at full lock on the frame behind the suspension. If you have the "right size 6.70 x 15 tires" and you get a rub anywhere, front or rear you have a problem that needs addressing.
If this oversize tire analysis fits your car, quit worrying. Otherwise, you wind up with gray hair.
You really need to provide more information for a good answer like tire size, alignment settings and wheel size and offset. There's lots of Corvette guys in your neighborhood that can help you out.
I think Jim Kuzick (ex VV Cooke mechanic) lives out your way.
I had the alignment set to within the factory specs - I would have to do some digging to find the sheet with the exact settings. The tires are 775/15 bias ply redlines on stock aluminum bolt ons. I'm not exactly sure what you mean by offset but the car is all stock if that tells you anything. I may need to go see Mr. Kuzick if I can't get it figured out - where does he live/work? I'm right outside Louisville.
I had the alignment set to within the factory specs - I would have to do some digging to find the sheet with the exact settings. The tires are 775/15 bias ply redlines on stock aluminum bolt ons. I'm not exactly sure what you mean by offset but the car is all stock if that tells you anything. I may need to go see Mr. Kuzick if I can't get it figured out - where does he live/work? I'm right outside Louisville.
I'll see if I can locate him for you. Didn't see a listing in the phone book. He's been long retired but works at his house.
The current replacement 7.75 x 15 tires are wider than original. They may rub on the frame on the back side of the front tires at full lock. If it's a very light rub, I wouldn't worry. If you're rubbing someplace else, you may have a problem but it's still not clear to me if that's the case.
I had the alignment set to within the factory specs - I would have to do some digging to find the sheet with the exact settings. The tires are 775/15 bias ply redlines on stock aluminum bolt ons. I'm not exactly sure what you mean by offset but the car is all stock if that tells you anything. I may need to go see Mr. Kuzick if I can't get it figured out - where does he live/work? I'm right outside Louisville.
I mispelled the name. It's "Cusick". Look in the Bardstown phonebook for his number.