Starter Motor Auto vs Manual
#1
Racer
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Starter Motor Auto vs Manual
I have spent the past year shimming my starter motor which works well for a few weeks and then goes off again , I now realise the problem is that I changed from a manual to Auto box ( TH350 ) and I believe the starter motor is different ? Can anyone shed light on the differences and can mine be modified or is it a complete new starter ?
The starter has the offset hole configuration .
Your ideas thoughts and any pics appreciated
Mike .
The starter has the offset hole configuration .
Your ideas thoughts and any pics appreciated
Mike .
#2
Drifting
To my knowledge there is no difference between the starters for manual or auto. The manual has a flywheel and the auto a flexplate, but both should come in 153-tooth or 168-tooth configurations and have the same outside diameter. What problem were you trying to solve with the shims?
#3
Racer
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I was shimming the motor as it did always engage properly so I naturally assumed it was out of alignment .
I agree there are the same amount of teeth on both flywheel and flexplate ( mine is the 168 version ), but the flex plate sits slightly further to the back of the starter motor , perhaps it is just the difference in thickness ? and therefore there is a difference between auto and manual starters probably only about 1/4" or so but enough to stop it engaging properly , I believe it is just the nose section which is what I was asking in the post , can they be changed ?
Mike .
I agree there are the same amount of teeth on both flywheel and flexplate ( mine is the 168 version ), but the flex plate sits slightly further to the back of the starter motor , perhaps it is just the difference in thickness ? and therefore there is a difference between auto and manual starters probably only about 1/4" or so but enough to stop it engaging properly , I believe it is just the nose section which is what I was asking in the post , can they be changed ?
Mike .
#4
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When changing from a manual transmission to an auto, the pilot bushing needs to be removed from the crankshaft. The torque converter will bump into the bushing if it is not removed. And when you bolt the torque converter to the flex plate it will deform the flex plate and make the starter noisy.
#5
Melting Slicks
I was shimming the motor as it did always engage properly so I naturally assumed it was out of alignment .
I agree there are the same amount of teeth on both flywheel and flexplate ( mine is the 168 version ), but the flex plate sits slightly further to the back of the starter motor , perhaps it is just the difference in thickness ? and therefore there is a difference between auto and manual starters probably only about 1/4" or so but enough to stop it engaging properly , I believe it is just the nose section which is what I was asking in the post , can they be changed ?
Mike .
I agree there are the same amount of teeth on both flywheel and flexplate ( mine is the 168 version ), but the flex plate sits slightly further to the back of the starter motor , perhaps it is just the difference in thickness ? and therefore there is a difference between auto and manual starters probably only about 1/4" or so but enough to stop it engaging properly , I believe it is just the nose section which is what I was asking in the post , can they be changed ?
Mike .
Actually I had a problem when building my Street Rod. I had put the wrong Chevy starter in the car and I am running a Turbo 350 trans. My problem was different though. When I went to start the car the Bendix drive didn't even come close to touching the teeth on the flexplate. I had to change out the starter for one that bolted to the Chevy block differently where it positioned the nose of the starter further in for the Bendix to make contact to the flexplate.
Last edited by ffas23; 06-05-2007 at 08:01 AM.
#6
Melting Slicks
In the '62s, and maybe other years, one bolted to the block, and the other bolted to the bell housing. Also believe that the noses were different on the 2 starters. Don't know, though, what difference that makes. Don't know what starter, block, and bell housing you're using.
#7
Team Owner
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I like Lynn's idea. Or, I think you can install the flexplate backwards and get the same effect. I think the ring gear is offset on the flexplate. Any V-8 starter that bolts to the block will work with either auto or standard as long as the corresponding nose for the size flywheel/flexplate is used. I think that goes as well for the later '60's four and six cylinder engines.
#8
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I have checked the flexplate and it is fitting evenly all round , in fact I looked at the back where it meets the converter and there is plenty of room between it and the bolt heads and pilot bushing which barely sticks through the flexplate . The flexplate is off set slightly but I have it so it is in the furthest position forward towards the starter and looking at the distance the bendix travels it only comes into contact with about 2/3 rds of the flexplate ring gear before it hits the stop at the back of the starter nose , so I am hoping a new nose section to allow the starter to move towards the plate a further 1/4" or so will do the trick . The problem is not helped by the starter cog now being a bit worn after so long not engaging properly .
I hope to source a different nose section from my local dealer who has a few used units knocking about , I will let you know the outcome .
For info the block is 3970010 69-79 4 bolt mains and with the starter mounted to the block via the offset hole configuration and the box is a TH 350 .
Mike .
I hope to source a different nose section from my local dealer who has a few used units knocking about , I will let you know the outcome .
For info the block is 3970010 69-79 4 bolt mains and with the starter mounted to the block via the offset hole configuration and the box is a TH 350 .
Mike .
#10
Melting Slicks
I have checked the flexplate and it is fitting evenly all round , in fact I looked at the back where it meets the converter and there is plenty of room between it and the bolt heads and pilot bushing which barely sticks through the flexplate . The flexplate is off set slightly but I have it so it is in the furthest position forward towards the starter and looking at the distance the bendix travels it only comes into contact with about 2/3 rds of the flexplate ring gear before it hits the stop at the back of the starter nose , so I am hoping a new nose section to allow the starter to move towards the plate a further 1/4" or so will do the trick . The problem is not helped by the starter cog now being a bit worn after so long not engaging properly .
I hope to source a different nose section from my local dealer who has a few used units knocking about , I will let you know the outcome .
For info the block is 3970010 69-79 4 bolt mains and with the starter mounted to the block via the offset hole configuration and the box is a TH 350 .
Mike .
I hope to source a different nose section from my local dealer who has a few used units knocking about , I will let you know the outcome .
For info the block is 3970010 69-79 4 bolt mains and with the starter mounted to the block via the offset hole configuration and the box is a TH 350 .
Mike .