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Cheapest way is to find a "donor" car and just take everything between the ball joints. (Be sure that the parts aren't bent.) It's a direct bolt-on.
You can get a re-built Corvette manual brake, dual M/C at any auto parts store for about $25. You will also need to plumb in a 10# residual valve and proportioning valve into the rear brake line.
I did what you want to do to my '64 and it is a worthwhile investement, especially if you hit a puddle of water .
Cheapest way is to find a "donor" car and just take everything between the ball joints. (Be sure that the parts aren't bent.) It's a direct bolt-on.
You can get a re-built Corvette manual brake, dual M/C at any auto parts store for about $25. You will also need to plumb in a 10# residual valve and proportioning valve into the rear brake line.
I did what you want to do to my '64 and it is a worthwhile investement, especially if you hit a puddle of water .
Was there a problem with the stock rims hitting the calipers and where would one find this "10# residual valve and proportioning valve"?
NAPA numbers?
Easiest way is just to recondition some old units off a 65-80 vette. However, you will need the wheel spacers or 65 up rims regardless of the swap. If you dont plan on reconditioning the unit yourself then you are better off to just drop the 800.00 on one of the conversion kits.
It is a dilemma for many of us who drive our cars and are nervous about the drum brakes. As long as I am just cruising, the my drums are fine. More than just cruising, I'm worried especially if I get my car back to its original 360 hp.
I noticed the number 06 Blue 1963 ZO6 Corvette that is raced and occasionally appears in this forum has disk brakes. If a ZO6 is running around with disks why shouldn't mine.
SLWRNU:
I'll check into Wilwood, can you give me a link to what you installed in your car?
James Hufford:
I'll just pretty much echo what Philip964 posted. It's just peace of mind, especially for those of us who drive our cars regularly. The drums work ok for a hard stop or two, then start to fade. I'll keep the drums on the rear for a solid emergency brake, but when it comes to the well being of the car and the safety of me and my family in the car, I want as much reliable stopping power as I can get. Not to mention, all of us GOOD Jersey drivers know how many BAD Jersey drivers there are out there.
Pop Chevy:
Tell me more Doc...
To All:
The wheels I have are stock rims with hubcaps. Will I need 1/8 inch spacers no matter what conversion kit I use?
Toddalin:
I installed the Hurst line lock with the T-Handle thumb button in my '69 GTO years ago, cool little gadget. But for the amount I actually used it, I doubt it'll ever make it into the Vette. Your car is pretty F'n sweet though, even though I miss the lines in your door panels.
It is a dilemma for many of us who drive our cars and are nervous about the drum brakes. As long as I am just cruising, the my drums are fine. More than just cruising, I'm worried especially if I get my car back to its original 360 hp.
I noticed the number 06 Blue 1963 ZO6 Corvette that is raced and occasionally appears in this forum has disk brakes. If a ZO6 is running around with disks why shouldn't mine.
It is a dilemma.
Note: ALL of us Vintage Racers run stock K-H disc brakes and that upgrade is recognized and allowed by ALL vintage race organizations. I got tired of almost killing myself at every race, so after 20 years of the big Z06 drums, I changed over to the "modern" discs with modern RACE Pads (PFC-01). The best thing I can say about them is that I never notice the brakes, whereas with the drums, every single corner was looked at as an opportunity to die.