I am considering converting my manual window to power. Anyone has done this conversion? What brand did you use? How did it perform? I have seen a complete kit on a catalog but I have learned the hard way that everything can be made to look good on a catalog.

Appreciate any input.

Thanks

 

Hi, I added PW to my '65 Coupe but that was at least 15(+) years ago and I don't think there were many (if any) aftermarket systems available at the time. A lot of work? I'd say yes but worth it. I wound up getting used PW regulators from a guy in New York called Chucks Corvettes along with the necessary new harnesses, conduits, etc. It was a fairly big job but since I was putting things back together after doing a body-off, the doors were still bare and that made cutting holes a lot easier. I have seen the scissors style PW regulators that are available in the aftermarket for other cars and like what I've seen and I'd guess that the ones made for midyears would be just as good. I'll be adding a PW setup to my '56 Nomad and they were scissors style (versus the plastic ribbon versions) made by Auto City. It looks like your car is all together and the only real hassle I can see is the cutting of holes at the front of the door for the conduit that will then pass through an oval hole you'll need to open up on the front jamb. Take a look at that front jamb and you should find a small inward dimple around midway in the jamb. If I remember correctly all midyears have that oval hole existing on the steel backing plate inside the fiberglas jamb surface. When a car came down the assembly line the workers just routed out the fiberglas and used the steel opening behind it as a template. There's also some tunnel cutting since the switch will need to protrude down through the fiberglas tunnel into a recessed cup. Not sure about '63 center consoles but my '65 had the 'outline' of the cutout on the bottom side of the console and I just had to drill and file to open it up for the switch. I know I've gone on a lot more than you were looking for but bottom line, I'd do it all over again. I really like Power Windows.

 

I haven't finished the entire job yet but you can convert your hand crank regulators by installing new gears and original motor mounting plates (I got mine from Paragon). You can find new or used GM power window motors very easily. The repro conduits took a little finessing to get the correct bend in them. The wiring and relays are readily availble, the switch is available from GM and I just used a dremel to cut the holes in my console. My doors were already gutted for the restoration so it made things easier.

 

One source to check is called Nu-Relics. I haven't installed it yet but it looks like a well made unit.

Rich

 

Thanks for input.

Mike, thank you for the tips. Mine is also a 65, but a vert instead of a coupe and it does have the outline on the center console also. I will take a look at the door jambs to see about the cutout.

Rich, I did not see a corvette kit on the Nu-Relics web page. Assume the one you have is going on the 63 project? I will send them an email.

The kit I have seen is the Corvette Central kit. Looks nice on the picture but not sure if it is a easy fit. Here is the link:

http://www.parts123.com/parts123/yb....Z5Z5Z50000050B

The Nu-Relics pricing is definitely more appealing.

 

Hi Luiz, my mistake on assuming it was the Saddle '63 SWC getting the PW. Afterwards I saw your very nice collection of Vettesand realized you had a midyear roadster too. In addition to the vendors you've already uncovered, you might also want to check out Zip Products in Virginia, www.zip-corvette.com. Their pic shows just about the same setup as Corvette Central but the price is a tad lower at $590. One thing I don't see in either vendors pics is the little plastic recessed cup that the switch sits down in. It's basically a flanged plastic cup that keeps the connection dry at the bottom of the switch. More than likely it's included in both kits but I thought I'd mention it anyway.
Regarding the replacement PW gear applied to your existing manual regulators, that should work fine too if your existing regulators are in good shape (rivets/rollers/etc). On my '65 Coupe the old regulators were seriously trashed and so worn out that it was amazing that the windows still stayed up without falling to the bottom of the door.
The only other thing to add is that you will be buying new door panels and transferring the trim from the old to the new panels will add to the overall amount of work involved, but again...I still think it's worth it.

 

Luiz,

On their site just click on the catalog section and then on Corvette. They have a picture of the mid-year unit. I can't speak to the installation or operation yet as we haven't installed them yet but they look like well designed units.

Rich

 

I don't know if this will help but I did 2 conversions of manual windows to power windows on my 2 Ford E-Series Vans that I use for my business. It was just to much of a pain to roll the windows down since there is so much room in a Ford Van and to reach to the other side to roll the passenger window down I would have to stop and pull over to do it. Anyway there is a way to do this conversion not using the factory setup and I have to tell you the system works well and the price is right. In both Vans I installed a kit made by an aftermarket company call SPAL. It uses the existing manual window set up. I have brought my Vans to the different automotive garages I sell to and even they say you can't tell the difference and the power windows work so well. On top of that the cost is very affordable.

I never thought to put the set up in either of my Vettes but I am sure there would be no problem. The kit comes with everything you need to do the installation. The only thing I would do differently is I would purchase the original Corvette power window switches instead of the ones that come with the kit so that my C-2 or C-3 would look original. The kit even comes with a cap to cover the hole in your door panel that could be vinyl color painted to match the door panel or you can just change the door panels out at a added cost so no ones knows anything. Here is a link for one of those SPAL Power Window Kits on Ebay for you to look at. http://cgi.ebay.com/SPAL-POWER-WINDO...QQcmdZViewItem . I purchased one of my kits from this seller and another from someone else. I also purchased a 3rd one for one of my garage customers who wanted it for his own pickup truck. For under $150 you can't go wrong. The power window motors are made in Italy by the way. The only thing I am not sure of here is if the power window door panels will work with this setup. I am pretty darn sure the manual window door panels will work for sure with the added adition of the cap that comes in the kit. SPAL might be able to tell you something here. They have a 800 number to call them with any questions.

 

Thanks Rick, I will order one of these kits just to try it out. If it does not fit, I have an old Bronco that will be glad to take it.

 

Luiz,
You won't be sorry. It really is a quality made kit. Everyone who has looked at my 2 Ford Vans are amazed. The setup looks like it came right from the factory. I even bought the kit with the door switches that light up at night time. Just take your time installing it and make sure you follow directions that are very easy. You will need to do this so that you select the correct cams to fit the manual window assembly. I am pretty sure this kit can also be purchased without switches so that you can use the factory Corvette Switches so no one will know. In both of my Vans I did the change over in 2 days taking my time. Set up the motor assemblies in the doors first to make sure the door panels fit right when you are done. With test wires you will be able to check operation for up and down. Do the factory supplied wiring harness and switches last. Just a little advice.

Good Luck with it. Let us know how you make out.

 

Does anyone have a template for the console window switch, and the Door Jamb Conduit opening?

With regard to the wiring harness. I see it is sold as a separate harness. How does it interface to the existing wiring?

 

 

I was going to post asking how would one cover up the holes used by the old manual window cranks and then I read your post. I'm not exactly sure what you are saying.... Why would you put new gears in the manual window cranks if you are going to power windows?

Thanks kindly....

 

This kit by Autoloc allows you to use your old window cranks...

http://www.lowridermagazine.com/tech...ows/index.html

http://rodpartsdealer.com/itemDetail.asp?item=433

I have no experience with these products but I do see them advertised in Rod & Custom magazine...

 

Its cetainly a low cost approach and one worth considering. I have seen it installed on a rod, and at the time I thought it was fairly cool how the existing window crank was made into the power window up/down control.

 

As far as the switch is concerned, on my '66 there is a relief on the backside to show you where to cut, but I guess your '63 doesn't have that. The power wire for the windows plugs into the accesory (spare) terminal on the fuse box and the ground wire attaches to the base of the courtesy light bracket. As for cutting the holes for the conduit....well, someday I have to do the same thing, but maybe you could go first and tell me how it goes.

Here are the instructions from the assembly manual. I hope the guys on the assembly line had a better copy of these. Otherwise, I could not blame them for any mistakes.

 

As usual, I found those same pictures in my assembly manual, just after I posted. But as I examined them, I found that the measurments where in reference to Lines which make little sense to me. The Lines are marked with numbers like "35" or "0". So, I'm not sure what to do there.

On the Conduit area of the Hinge piller I see a dimple which I assume is at the center of the radius shown in the assembly manual. I did not find a simliar dimple in the glass at the Power window switch location or on the front of the door. But I did not look on both side of the panel. If I can find such a dimple, then I can use the dimensions in the Assembly manual

 

Well, if anyone can make sense of these numbers, please fill us in.

My favorite........2 holes are needed to mount the conduit, using 2 bolts with the same part number. One hole is listed as 15/64" diameter, the other is listed as .152" diameter. My head hurts, I'm going to bed.

 

See my 2 earlier posts here in this thread. I did power window conversions on 2 of my work Vans using the SPAL Power Window Kit. They work great and look factory installed. SPAl looks to be an easier kit to use then what your link shows above.

 

Do they use the existing window cranks?