"Better" Bleeder Screws?
06-16-2007, 11:27 AM
#1
Le Mans Master
Thread Starter
"Better" Bleeder Screws?
Does anyone make 'better' caliper bleeder screws? The stainless sleeved calipers on my '66 needed new kits. Took everything apart, cleaned it up and installed the new kits. When disassembling them I noticed that the bleeder screws had been 'weeping' since you could see the wrinkled paint surrounding the screw. In addition to putting in new kits I also put in some new bleeders. Got them from Long Island.
Bled the car yesterday and everything seemed fine till I started noticing a very small bit of fluid at the base of the bleeder screw right where it would enter the caliper. This wasn't excess still in the throat of the bleeder and I ran a rag over the area to soak up any excess after every 'test'. It would stay dry till I got back in the car and pumped the pedal a few times. Tightened them up, checked again, again slightly wet. Not all of them, just a couple. Let's just say I've got these new bleeder screws as tight as they will got short of stripping threads. The bottom of the bleeder passages all looked okay but it's not exactly a machined finish.
These new bleeders are cad plated steel. Stainless, being a bit harder than the run of the mill steel versions, would even have a greater problem with conforming to the bottom of the bore.
Does anyone know of a 'better' bleeder screw made of a softer material like brass for these calipers? All the ones I've come across are plated steel or stainless. If brass can work on the brake blocks in the same system, it seems as if that would be a better material for sealing the bleeder ports than stee.
Bled the car yesterday and everything seemed fine till I started noticing a very small bit of fluid at the base of the bleeder screw right where it would enter the caliper. This wasn't excess still in the throat of the bleeder and I ran a rag over the area to soak up any excess after every 'test'. It would stay dry till I got back in the car and pumped the pedal a few times. Tightened them up, checked again, again slightly wet. Not all of them, just a couple. Let's just say I've got these new bleeder screws as tight as they will got short of stripping threads. The bottom of the bleeder passages all looked okay but it's not exactly a machined finish.
These new bleeders are cad plated steel. Stainless, being a bit harder than the run of the mill steel versions, would even have a greater problem with conforming to the bottom of the bore.
Does anyone know of a 'better' bleeder screw made of a softer material like brass for these calipers? All the ones I've come across are plated steel or stainless. If brass can work on the brake blocks in the same system, it seems as if that would be a better material for sealing the bleeder ports than stee.
Last edited by Vet65te; 06-16-2007 at 11:31 AM.
06-16-2007, 02:58 PM
#3
Le Mans Master
Thread Starter
I just tried the inch-pound torque wrench on them and found them to be at more than 125 inch-pounds. I then took back out the worst offender and found that I had snugged it up so tight that I had partially collapsed the passage hole near the bottom of the bleeder screw, right above the sealing bevel. 
So, I'm trying one of the 'old' bleeder screws.
Looking for a brass version has turned up nothing.
So, I'm trying one of the 'old' bleeder screws.
Looking for a brass version has turned up nothing.
06-16-2007, 04:56 PM
#5
Le Mans Master
Thread Starter
I checked on Wilwood but they only list a disc replacement kit for '63/'64s.
06-17-2007, 07:44 AM
#7
I use speed bleeders they have a sealing material on the threads so when they are opened they do not leak air. So with a problem of sealing the thread it should help, plus they are great for bleeding the brakes, makes the job less of a chore.
06-17-2007, 10:56 AM
#8
Le Mans Master
Thread Starter
Matt - That is my next approach. When I put the new seal kits into these calipers I saw evidence of some of bleeder screw leakage. I used a small diamter wire brush to clean out the threads but didn't think I'd have to try to surface the contact area at the bottom.
A 1/4-inch drill bit would be the right size but would cut up the seat too much. If I can't find some small beveled Dremel stone I will try using one of the old bleeder screws and some lap compound to see if I can clean up the surface. Odd thing is, every one of the bleeder screws I've tried has come back out with a nice imprint of the seat area on the bottom of the screw. Who knows, maybe there's a small crack down there. Slim possibility I know but at this point I'm running out of ideas (and patience).
TenTuna - You're right, those speed bleeder screws would be better for sealing around the threads but the main sealing is done at the bottom where the beveled nose hits the chamfered seat and that seems to be where my problem is located.
A 1/4-inch drill bit would be the right size but would cut up the seat too much. If I can't find some small beveled Dremel stone I will try using one of the old bleeder screws and some lap compound to see if I can clean up the surface. Odd thing is, every one of the bleeder screws I've tried has come back out with a nice imprint of the seat area on the bottom of the screw. Who knows, maybe there's a small crack down there. Slim possibility I know but at this point I'm running out of ideas (and patience).
TenTuna - You're right, those speed bleeder screws would be better for sealing around the threads but the main sealing is done at the bottom where the beveled nose hits the chamfered seat and that seems to be where my problem is located.