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Lead Additives: Needed? Pros/Cons?

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Old Jun 23, 2007 | 10:03 AM
  #41  
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I have been adding a bottle of 104 Octane Booster to every fill-up . . . I will try every other fill-up, and see what happens. The first time I did, the performance seemed to improve, i.e., acceleration, no hesitation, and just an overall smoother ride. I have used 104 ever since.

A Corvette mechanic suggested using 104 . . . uses it in his Corvettes. I had also tried Lucas and another one (black bottle with some blue writing), but I noticed no appreciable difference in improving performance when using either one. By the way, a two-dollar-off coupon comes with every bottle of 104.

Also, usUsing Shell Rotella T 15W-40 engine oil and the like should help with the lubrication process. It is used in diesel engines, which as I understand, are hard driving and tend to cause more wear of the moving parts compared to gasoline-powered engines. Just do a search on Shell Rotella to get researched up.

Also,

Last edited by Moz Ray; Jun 23, 2007 at 10:05 AM.
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Old Jun 23, 2007 | 02:51 PM
  #42  
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Ken,

if you are saying it is tach problem, wouldn't tach bounce ALL of the time not just when it warms up? still believe it is a hot percolation problem only and nothing to do with the tach at all - but, will check as it also has the original tach cable - F/I unti was rebuilt by Jerry in 2004
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Old Jun 23, 2007 | 02:53 PM
  #43  
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Originally Posted by mdz06vetter
Ken,

if you are saying it is tach problem, wouldn't tach bounce ALL of the time not just when it warms up? still believe it is a hot percolation problem only and nothing to do with the tach at all - but, will check as it also has the original tach cable - F/I unti was rebuilt by Jerry in 2004
Hook up another tach (electronic) and compare the readings.

Plasticman
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Old Jun 23, 2007 | 03:10 PM
  #44  
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again, not sure what should be showing up on another tach!? tach does NOT bounce when car is initially started, does not bounce when it kicks down after warmup - but, once the car warms up, and I come to stop, the tach will bounce between around 550 and 850 - so, I have concluded and Jerry agress, that it is a fuel percolation problem and the way to resolve is to run CAM 2 - am not normally worried about it, but I am trying to pass PERFORMANCE VERIFICATION with NCRS

so, are sage tach gurus telling me that the tach should be replaced; tach cable should be replaced; - instrument cluster was pulled and all gauges were looked at in 2004 and calibrated by Rick Stotler, who used to do all the restorations for Corvette Specialties of Maryland
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Old Jun 23, 2007 | 03:39 PM
  #45  
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I'm not a guru but I'd say there's nothing wrong with your tach or cable. The idle speed fluctuation you describe is within the rpm range mine fluctuates whenever it does the hoochey-coochey when it hot idling, sometimes. Your ears should be able to detect that much idle speed fluctuation.
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Old Jun 23, 2007 | 04:59 PM
  #46  
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Originally Posted by mdz06vetter
again, not sure what should be showing up on another tach!? tach does NOT bounce when car is initially started, does not bounce when it kicks down after warmup - but, once the car warms up, and I come to stop, the tach will bounce between around 550 and 850 - so, I have concluded and Jerry agress, that it is a fuel percolation problem and the way to resolve is to run CAM 2 - am not normally worried about it, but I am trying to pass PERFORMANCE VERIFICATION with NCRS

so, are sage tach gurus telling me that the tach should be replaced; tach cable should be replaced; - instrument cluster was pulled and all gauges were looked at in 2004 and calibrated by Rick Stotler, who used to do all the restorations for Corvette Specialties of Maryland
I was simply saying "if" there is a problem with the tach, then another tach would confirm (or deny) it. I do agree with you that the tach does not sound like it is the issue, but a simple confirmation might be in order. Don't take things out of context, and do problem solving one step at a time.

Just hook another tach up when you see it bounce. If you feel that is a waste of time, then so be it.

Plasticman

Last edited by Plasticman; Jun 23, 2007 at 05:02 PM.
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Old Jun 23, 2007 | 05:41 PM
  #47  
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Default Quick percolation test

Shoot the spider hub with spray brake cleaner while the engine is idling roughly ("tach bouncing"). The rapid evaporation of the cleaner will cool the spider. If the idle and tach smooth out immediately, then you were experiencing percolation before spraying.
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Old Jun 25, 2007 | 02:27 PM
  #48  
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Ken,

thanks - Jerry did the restoration on the F/I and he and I have been thinking it was "percolation" - never hurts to see what folks have experienced, though
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Old Jul 18, 2007 | 10:07 AM
  #49  
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Originally Posted by 63two
Forget the valves pistons or compression The real question is do you need lead to protect the injector pump
I think this was the gist of the original question. Podell sells octane booster with tetra ethel lead, and suggest using it as a lubricant for mechanical FI pumps. FI pump tolerances are extremely close, and gasoline is NOT a good lubricant. (Just see how long a two stroke will run on straight gas.) We know for a fact that lead is a good lubricant for valve seats. Why would I think Podell is pulling my leg about using a little lead to make my $1000 pump last a little longer? With all the additives on the market that do absolutely nothing, this stuff at least has something in it that we know helped older engines last longer.
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Old Jul 18, 2007 | 11:26 AM
  #50  
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Ken, TEL is not a lubricant like motor oil. It didn't really "lubricate" the valves in old engines in the traditional sense of the word.

The lead content in gasoline during the old days prevented valve seat recession by coating the seat surfaces with a TEL residue. The lead residue was created by the combustion process in the cylinder. This coating kept the hot valve from sticking to and pulling away the metal of the cast iron seat.

Modern cars are equipped with hardened valve seats. No lead residue is needed to prevent erosion with these seats.
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Old Jul 18, 2007 | 05:23 PM
  #51  
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Originally Posted by Plasticman
Only engines that see high sustained loads need a lead additive to prevent valve / seat recession.

Even my twin turbo'd boat did not see any issues (which surprised me!).

Plasticman
Our fuel down here comes in 3 flavours, 91, 96 & 98 all unleaded.
Trying to find out the real octane rating of our variable fuel quality is pretty well impossible. I have a Subaru wagon for day to day running and sometimes it goes ok on 91, other times - not. So I stick to 96.
I know alot of guys here with muscle cars usually put a gallon or 2 of racing fuel or avgas into the tank just for peace of mind. Despite what the fuel companies tell you, the octane rating varies some.
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