I know this has been covered before and the spec was for a later year but I don't remember what it was..

getting a full alignment on my 65, what spec's should I be looking at?? front / rear
Running P205 75 15's.. on stock wheels

Thanks guys

Tony

 

Had mine done on fri. Here is a copy of its print out. (Front only)
Its had some wild settings through the yrs. But Its now within Factory spec's.
All numbers are in degrees. Go for a 4 wheel alignment, should run $60-$80
and save the print out for future referece. Just got done with some front end work, am planning on having it re-checked in about 1000 miles.

Left front -------------------------------Right front---------------------------
Min **nominal**Max.**Actual________Actual**M in**Nominal**Max********
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
.25____.75 __1.25___ .1___Camber___.3____ .25___.75___1.25________
1.25___1.75__2.25__1.9___ Caster___1.7___1.25__1.75___2.25________
.09"___.13"__.16"__.12"__Toe______.12"__ .09"___.13"__ .16"_______


__________________________front_________ _______________________
______________________Actual____Min__Nom inal____Max_____________
*******Cross Camber____-0.2_____-.50__0.00______.50______________
_______Cross Caster_______.2_____-.50__0.00______.50______________
_______Total Toe__________.24"____.19"_0.25"______.31 "_____________
_______Set back___________.10______________________ ____________

:cheers:


:smash: :smash: :smash: :smash: :smash: :smash:
The car used to run 1/8" toe Front and Rear
-1/4 deg camber Front and Rear
Caster + 1 1/2 deg Left
+ 2 deg Right





[Modified by 396 RAT, 8:29 PM 10/27/2001]

 

0 to 1/2 deg camber
1 1/2 std. to 3 1/4 PS caster
1/16 + toe in

Rear 1/16 to 1/8 toe
0 camber

These are for best tire wear, not performance.

 

Alignment specs, like ignition initial timing and centrifugal advance curve, are "tuning" parameters. The specs in your service manual are for bias tires for the "average" driver.

My recommendation for radial tires is front;

camber 0 to -1/2
caster +1.5 to +2.0
toe-in 1/16"

rear:

camber -1/2 to -1
toe-in 1/32" each side, 1/16" total

If you drive in a sporting manner go toward the "more negative" end of the camber specs. Greater positive caster will provide more "on center" steering feel, but make slow speed steering harder. If you have power steering go with two degrees. Cross camber and caster should be as close to zero as possible.

If you don't push the limit of the handling envelope, go with Wayne's camber specs.

The big issue in Corvette alignment is the rear toe. It's easy to measure the total. The trick is determining if is is properly divided - one half of the total on each side. Discuss this issue with your alignment tech.

Also, if he has to change rear toe shims he should understand what he's up against if the car has the fully captured type shims that require removal of the trailng arm bolts to change.

The above toe-in specs are for radial tires. For bias ply tires the toe should be set at the nomimal factory spec in the service manual.

Duke


[Modified by SWCDuke, 7:16 PM 10/27/2001]

 

Because I am using radial tires, I use the specs for a 76 Corvette instead of the 66 (76s came with radials). That takes the bump steer and hunting down to nothing. The frame and suspension is the same as a 76.

 

I drive a 64 coupe with a 96 LT1 and 6 speed with radial tires in a sporting manner as Duke stated and after experimenting with a lot of different settings over the years there is one set of #s that I have found that works real well.
Front Alignment
Camber Left side 0.5
Caster " " 1.8

Camber right side 0.4
Caster " " 1.8
Toe in .09


Rear alignment
Camber Left side .08
" right " .09
Toe in left side .01
" " right side .02

Good luck
Billy

 

Thanks guys,
This is great, :)
Now I just hope I can find someone in the Pasadena area that will take the time to do the job right..
This car does have the captive shims
I'm sure they will give them fits :smash:
Also has Power Steering..
I take it that P/S needs more caster??
Is caster the parameter that helps with the "Wander" and self centering?
I think the last alignment was done to factory spec's
I have radial tires and this setup has wander and very quick oversteer.
Also the wheel does not self center coming out of turns..
Rear is crudly measured as 1/8 toe out, so I know they will need to look at the rear..
Right now, it is a white knuckle ride in the quick turns,,,, :eek:
Definitely, needs some help

Thanks again for all the info

I'll let you all know the outcome..

Tony


[Modified by pittsaj, 9:13 PM 10/27/2001]

 

These make it easy. I have the old style from the 70's
but its the same thing. My rear shims are all on the outside for max tire clearance. Trailing arms inboard. These rods make adj. a snap. http://www.guldstrand.com/camber.htm
Shop around, l would sugest going to a front end / alignment shop, opposed
to a tire store. Just my 2 cents.
& Be sure to get your print out of your final spec's.
"Also the wheel does not self center coming out of turns"
Sounds like your steering box might be adjusted too tight?
:confused: Could that be posible? Has it been worked on lately?
Does the wheel come around quickly? Or just not center?


[Modified by 396 RAT, 11:31 PM 10/27/2001]

 

I have power steering, and I presume that wheel return is somewhat different between manual and power steering, but
I must now steer out of a turn..
It almost wants to tighten into the turn.. left or right
This is most bothersome in high speed freeway transition roads especially where the turning radius changes in the middle of the turn..
Feels like its wanting to get loose.. It doesn't I've pushed it, it just feels like it..
Someone told me that alot of the problem is in the rear because of the toe out condition..
He said that with the rear tires pointing outward when the weight shifts to the outside wheel in a turn, it's tendency would be to cause oversteer..
But I get wander as well so I'm sure there are problems up front as well..
I had the control arms and front end checked and everything is tight..
Car has very low mileage

Steering gear seem OK
little play, and on the street the wheel returns by it's self to about 10 and 2 position after a turn..

I'm sure a good alignment will help

Maybe I'm used to the newer type steering where the wheel snaps back to center after a turn.
Am I expecting too much??

Tony

 

"Am I expecting too much??"

No, based on what you described, you are in for a very pleasant surprise!
It will be the best thing you have done to your Vette for under $100.00!
Let us know how it turns out! :cheers:

 

I went through this same issue last year. I replace every moving part of the front suspension and steering on my car and had it aligned. Wheel doesn't return after completing a turn. I literally have to "steer" it out of the corner.

I replaced the steering box, and when I called the company and told them about it, they said it was probably just tight and needed to be broken in for around 200 miles. Well, my speedo/odometer aren't correct, but I know I've put way more than 200 miles on it, and the problem persists. I plan on trying to talk to the supplier again soon.

Another possible cause of the wheel not returning (I learned from this Forum) could be not enough positive caster on the fronts. I just pulled out my notes, and Wombvette told me to have the alignment shop try to get 2.75 deg. caster up front. My car currently has 1.1 and 1.6 on each wheel. From what I've been told, that alone may be enough to have the car not steer itself out of corners. Hope this helps. Keep us updated. Brian

 

The more positive caster you have the more self aligning torque the steering will have. If you have p/s you can go with more than two degrees caster if the steering wheel returnability and on center self aligning torque is inadequate.

The transient oversteer condition is probably caused by the rear toe-out.

Check around thoroughly and find an alignment shop/tech who has experience with adjusting the rear toe on these cars. Sometimes the trailing arm bolts have to be cut off, so you might want to have spares on hand along with a supply of appropriate shims. If you are not into NCRS originality the consensus recommendation is to replace the captured shims with the slotted type, and I understand that they are available from various Corvette parts vendors in stainless steel, which is probably the way to go.

Duke

 

Duke,
You are absolutely correct about that..
I would hate to get it somewhere only to find out that they couldn't get it apart or worse, broke something and then couldn't get the parts to put her back together..
Maybe I should check with a few Corvette Specialty shops around town and see if they are equipped to do the job..
This looks like one of those jobs thats better handled by someone that's done this before...
I'm sure my local alignment shop hasn't seen a C2 in years, maybe never...
You know your in trouble when they ask what it is :lol:

Tony

 

You should be able to find a good shop close to home.
I know your area, but can't recommend a specific shop.
Remember, the same basic susp. was used from 63 to 82!
That's 20 yrs! But you are being cautious, and that's good!
Better to ask questions 1st! Duke brought up some good points!
Good luck! & Let us know how it turns out. :cheers:
I gave the 24 yr old tech last Fri. a 15 min. ride when he was finished.
Made his day! He had never been in one before (65 BB) . Ear to ear grin!:D
Little things like that can go a long way.
I now have an "in" at a good alignment shop. It's a father and son team.
You don't need a big shop, just one with good equip. They had the new set up from Hunter. & Had both been trained & certified through Hunters
Tech program. The little plaques on the wall made me feel a little better
the 1st time I used them. The 1st 4 wheel alignment was $60.00, a week later after I worked more on the front end, the 2nd front (alignment only) was only $20.00.
Its all in the numbers, get your print out, it will show a min / max & actual.
I actually like smaller shops, if you hit it off, they let you get in there with them. Bigger shops have insurance issues that will keep you stuck in the waiting room. (and I hate that! :mad )
I have rambled enough. :seeya

 

...the duke is right, those trailing arm bolts can be a bear to remove...it took me 12 reciprocating saw blades to go through one bolt....i dunno, i'd be real careful about who did the rear end alignment

 

All good advice above. Especially the advice about getting an "in" at a shop if possible ;) I took my '63 vert back to the alignment shop today. They added more caster and it didn't help my wheel return.

I'm starting another post about it to bitch about my problem!!! Brian

 

One last question on this before I go...
Can a good tech do a good job on alignment without using computer equipment??
The computer equipped shops seem to have less experienced people that don't even know what the car is..
I found a shop that does just alignment and frame straightening, the people there know what they are talking about and have been there for as long as I can remember.. the owner even has a 64,
They don't however have computer equipment...

What do you guys think??
Electronics, gray matter..
or keep looking...

Thanks
Tony

 

Most modern shops have the ability to give you a print out.
I for 1, think I would pass.
But its up to you.............

 

When these cars were built, computer alignment was a dream. That having been said, 4 wheel alignment was also unknown. If you are just getting the front done, don't worry. If you need all four wheels done, IMO a Chevy dealer may be the best and most expensive option. :eek:

 

No doubt. My local dealer quoted me a price of $300.00 + for a four wheel align. I am going to my tire/wheel guy and use the DUKE numbers to see what I have. At the very least I will be able to be a part of the process. Will let you know the results. :cheers: