I have not had time to get pictures just yet, but I will try to within the next day or so. I just got back from running the car and I'm very happy with this setup. the car now runs cooler setting in traffic than it does running down the highway at 65 mph.

 

I also ran into the high speed problem. My Derale 16inch fan solved the city problem, but getting the air through the fan assembly and out of the engine compartment gets harder as the speed increases. I made aluminum shields to replace the steel splash shields, and I have removed the finger guard from the fan cage to get rid of the problem.

Is there a web site where the cfm of the fan is rated without the shroud so I can compare it to others?

 

POW-MIA From the feedback you received, I don't think anyone else has ever seen the problem. Therefore I wonder if they have ever driven their BB in traffic. I have a 66 427 which will stay cool (170) for as long as I keep moving, but have exactly the same problem once it sets in traffic. Once it gets hot, then I can drive it for miles and miles and it will never cool back down. When I shut the hot engine off, the water comes out of the overflow hose until the water level gets to a certain level, which I consider to be a low water level condition. I have found an overflow bottle setup at JC Whitney which I plan to install to catch the overflow water and change the cooling system to be a recovery sytem like was done on later BB.

When you have the opportunity to do the pictures, please send me a copy. I have just moved to Phoenix Az and will definitely need to do something about the issue.

 

Here are some pictures of the fan install. I didn't install the thermostat that came with the unit so that I could controll the cooling myself. What I did was wire it up using a relay and a toggle switch.

Specifications-
Part #: 180 Puller
Mounting Surface Required: 21 1/2" x 17 1/2" x 4 3/16"
Fan Assembly Diameter: 16”
Fan RPM @13.5VDC: 2450
Number of Blades/Fan Blade Angle: 8/variable
Airflow-Cu. Ft./Min. at 0º Static Pressure: 3300
Amp Draw: 18
Mounting System: Universal Brackets
Adj. Thermostat 160º-240º: Yes
Air Conditioning Relay: Yes

X-treme Replacement Parts (available for purchase separately)
Part # Description
30318-Motor
30331-Control Module
30159-Fan Blade
30078-Thermostat

 

Thanks for the info. Looks great. Does the temp control plug into the engine or the radiator?

My Derale control has a small probe that sits between two radiator fins, so that the fan keeps the rad temp ready for the next time the engine tstat opens for cooler fluid.

Manual control is fine, but especially if you have an A-C exchanger in front of the rad, the engine temp gauge tells you nothing about the rad temp.

 

The controll unit that came with the fan does have the probe your talking about. It also has a setup to be wired in to your A/C relay. I just wanted to make sure it would do the job before I hooked all of that up.

 

POW-MIA, That's a nice looking install. One of the better jobs I have seen. I guess I didn't do a good job promoting what we have for this application so I guess better late than never?

You are right about the Dual Spals' not fitting. The duals are 23.5" wide and the BB core is 22.5" wide. What we do, is build an aluminum radiator to match the fans and then move the mounts back in an inch. This package fits without any mods and it's a beast. Obviously you must buy the radiator and fan combo for this to work and the shroud will not fit back on. The package is 2760 cfm and wiring/relays are included.



Here is the link to that product
http://www.dewitts.com/pages/product...asp?ProdID=266


If you simply want some cooling help when stop & go, then this is our kit for adding a puller fan. It provides 2360 cfm, mounts under the stock fan shroud, and uses the factory type radiator channels for a rugged mounting system. Wiring and temp switch is included.


Here is the link to that product
http://www.dewitts.com/pages/product...asp?ProdID=321

 

Tom, I was well aware of your products and had spent a lot of time looking at your website. That is one awesome setup you have there. I would have gone with that setup but, I just had a new core put in the radiator last year. And was not looking to replace it just yet.

 

Thanks again.

If I replace my aging Derale, I would just want the fan to mount in my BB shroud. What are the two vertical blackets that support the fan motor made from - plastic or metal? I made supports from aluminum to mate the Derale outer frame to my plastic BB shroud. If I have to throw away the blackmagic shroud, I will need to adapt the brackets.

 

The brackets are metal but, I think the real advantage of this setup is the shroud. If I was going to run something with the factory shroud it would be the unit that Tom is selling for that purpose.

 

I believe Tom only sells 2 types. One is the dual fan that requires me to reroute the factory A-C lines. The other mounts on the rad core or else on brackets that block the rad core. My 16 inch fan fills the factory shroud hole that the factory fan occupied, which pulls air from the entire rad core not just a round section. I hold 180F all the time in the city - even 100F days. It's the high speed highway running that is marginal. I don't like the 185 to 195F engine temps at 70-80mph with A-C running on a 100F day. The flex-a-lite fan is a 50% higher cfm than the Derale, so I believe it will do the trick - if it doesn't suck the core out of the rad tanks.

Thanks for the info on the vertical fan motor brackets being metal. The tech line guy at flex-a-lite said the brackets were nylon. I didn't think that would hold a heavy fan motor over potholes in the heat of the engine bay.

If the flex-a-lite shroud were wider and straddled the tanks the way the BB shroud does, I would go for it. My choice is to mod their shroud or just buy the fan and mod my current fan brackets. The brackets sound easier to me.