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Engine pad on ebay question

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Old Jul 11, 2007 | 09:27 AM
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Default Engine pad on ebay question

Now before I ruffle feathers of some folks, I first want to say that if I was doing a frame off restore on a car that I was going to keep, I would have done the same thing.

Check out the pic of the pad, deep broach marks, looks pristine. Has to be a restamp, right or wrong?

Again, I am here to learn.

Ebay #130133350977

Thanks
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Old Jul 11, 2007 | 10:01 AM
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That pic is too far away to be sure (I can't even see the numbers), but those broach marks look very suspicious to me.
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Old Jul 11, 2007 | 10:21 AM
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Restamp

There is a "S" in the VIN stamp.
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Old Jul 11, 2007 | 10:42 AM
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Yep ! The "S" was the big giveaway. I sent him an email to double check to be sure it wasn't a 3, but he swears it's an S. Too bad.
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Old Jul 11, 2007 | 11:54 AM
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I think that first "letter" is a 3....look at it vs. the 3 in FIO23....the 3's look similar. What does the first 3 stand for in the engine stamp (i.e. 3108238 FOI23RE)? Also, I know the RE stands for the 340hp hi-lift cam, but what does the FOI23 equate. F for Flint.....

Lastly, I understand that broach marks are lines left by the machine as they scrape the block pad. The original factory went front to back but I guess machine shops typically go side to side? How do you look at that picture and say the broach marks are wrong.

Check out these two pictures I found on another forum site (yes I've been unfaithful to corvetteforum.com, I'm sorry ) They both claim they have original engines.

http://ww2.netnitco.net/users/rclark...e/padstamp.jpg

http://img.villagephotos.com/p/2003-...2/IM001941.jpg

Thanks for the education.
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Old Jul 11, 2007 | 02:01 PM
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Originally Posted by TX63CONV
I think that first "letter" is a 3....look at it vs. the 3 in FIO23....the 3's look similar. What does the first 3 stand for in the engine stamp (i.e. 3108238 FOI23RE)? Also, I know the RE stands for the 340hp hi-lift cam, but what does the FOI23 equate. F for Flint.....

Lastly, I understand that broach marks are lines left by the machine as they scrape the block pad. The original factory went front to back but I guess machine shops typically go side to side? How do you look at that picture and say the broach marks are wrong.

Check out these two pictures I found on another forum site (yes I've been unfaithful to corvetteforum.com, I'm sorry ) They both claim they have original engines.

http://ww2.netnitco.net/users/rclark...e/padstamp.jpg

http://img.villagephotos.com/p/2003-...2/IM001941.jpg

Thanks for the education.
The F0123 is the engine build date. In this case Jan 23, 1963.

The broach marks thing is more complicated than it seems. Factory broach marks run front to rear and run perfectly parallel. They are typically pretty uniform in depth, though some variation such as seen in your two links occur.

Compare this to the deep gouges seen in the ebay ad. These deep gouges do not typically appear on factory deck surfaces. If the ebay pic was magnified I think it would show not typical characteristics as well.

Machine shop deck jobs usually use a circular mill to cut the deck surface, which leaves a circular mark on the surface. Some restorers then use a belt sander to then "restore" the parallel broach marks.
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Old Jul 11, 2007 | 03:20 PM
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The 3 in the first position of the VIN stamp is the model year. 3 was for 63. It should not be an S.
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Old Jul 11, 2007 | 04:46 PM
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Thanks! It looks like the font on the VIN stamp is different from the font on the engine code?
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Old Jul 11, 2007 | 05:55 PM
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Originally Posted by TX63CONV
Thanks! It looks like the font on the VIN stamp is different from the font on the engine code?

The fonts are different. They are done at different times by different workers. The date code (larger stamp ) was done at the engine plant. The VIN code ( smaller font ) was done in St. Louis.

Engines were manufactured in Flint ( in this case ) and then sent to the Corvette plant. The suffix on the engine would tell workers the configuration of the powertrain. Once it was assigned to a car, it was stamped with the car's VIN. To make a long story short, that's the basic way it happened.
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Old Jul 11, 2007 | 06:08 PM
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I tend to agree with the re-stamp, shame he didn't advertise it as correct block with a restoration engine the rest of the car looks pretty good.
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Old Jul 11, 2007 | 07:35 PM
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Pad stamper:





Block "broacher":

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Old Jul 12, 2007 | 10:16 AM
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Thanks for the pixs of the stamper thingie. Great post.

I dont know how you can see anything on that photo at the ebay site. Too far away.

Doesnt the post above with this link show broach marks that are not parrallel with the axis of the block?

http://img.villagephotos.com/p/2003-...2/IM001941.jpg

So wouldnt this one be a redecking and a restamp?

Last edited by philip964; Jul 12, 2007 at 10:30 AM.
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Old Jul 12, 2007 | 10:45 AM
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Originally Posted by philip964
Thanks for the pixs of the stamper thingie. Great post.

I dont know how you can see anything on that photo at the ebay site. Too far away.

Doesnt the post above with this link show broach marks that are not parrallel with the axis of the block?

http://img.villagephotos.com/p/2003-...2/IM001941.jpg

So wouldnt this one be a redecking and a restamp?

@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@

Appears to me to be a good stamp. Look at the end of the pad and you will original brooch marks. The diagonal scratches appear to be where someone use emery cloth or sand paper to remove some buildup on the block in that area. Could be wrong but I don't think so.

Steve
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Old Jul 12, 2007 | 10:50 AM
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Originally Posted by philip964
I dont know how you can see anything on that photo at the ebay site. Too far away.
That is what got me to thinking, because those broach marks look new from that distance. Again, I am far from being an expert. Just curious as to other opinions.
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Old Jul 12, 2007 | 12:43 PM
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Originally Posted by sedowney
That is what got me to thinking, because those broach marks look new from that distance. Again, I am far from being an expert. Just curious as to other opinions.
I would agree even from the distance the "texture" seems quite new. It also looks like a 3 to me not an S, but its really too far away, I'm just guessing here. If the owner says its an S, I would assume it is.
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Old Jul 12, 2007 | 10:34 PM
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Looks like a 3 to me.
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Old Jul 14, 2007 | 11:42 AM
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Originally Posted by sedowney
Again, I am here to learn.
You probably don't want to hear this, but if you really want to "learn" you need to physically get involved with your local NCRS Chapter. Get off the internet, make a commitment, roll up your sleeves and meet some great people. We would love to have you. Tough love, but someone had to say it.
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Old Jul 15, 2007 | 04:02 PM
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This is amazing...My car Birthday is 24 Jan and my number is 3107426....His is 3108238 ////

How could his car be born one day before mine????


Couple of things that don't add up///




This car has the standard oil pan..notice the steering dampner...real 340 cars have a 6 quart pan and the steering dampner does not fit.

Master braker cylinder is replacement and the power brake booster is not correct. several other things still out so I really wonder if this is a 340 car also FM radios did not come out until late February mine has a Wonderbar AM..a lot of wrong hardware and the shocks are wrong...under car floorpans were not black but natural fiberglass/// looking at the engine pad very closely does NOT look factory.... Number for the F serial look wrong and the broach marks do not look typical factory from the photo.

Something is fishy here.....

Last edited by 1KULC7; Jul 15, 2007 at 04:20 PM.
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Old Aug 10, 2007 | 12:47 PM
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Default Date spread

so what is a "typical" spread between the engine casting date and the engine build date that is on the stamp pad?
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Old Aug 10, 2007 | 01:45 PM
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Originally Posted by TX63CONV
so what is a "typical" spread between the engine casting date and the engine build date that is on the stamp pad?
Anywhere from a couple of days to 4 weeks or so is "typical", but longer spans are seen; inventory control back then wasn't like it is these days.
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