mid year overheating
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 157
Likes: 2
From: davis ca
ok got the new thermostat housing and installed it and the new thermostat. no leaks.
the car still overheats; that is it goes to at least three quarters or more. not sitting in traffic but local driving; some stop and go, and it is 93 outside and humid. but I don't ever remember seeing those kind of temperatures. the water doesn't seem to be cooling the engine. maybe a blockage somewhere.
funny thing though, I couldn't squeeze water into the engine block with the hose from the radiator, after I shut it down. shouldn't the thermostat be open after it's been running and temperature was way past 210?
for grins. which way does the thermostat go on the intake? I have the birdcage up, what I think to be the probe part down into the intake. is that right?
the good news is that looks like I had a bad res cap. with the new one even as hot as it got it didnt' blow hot water from the cap.
the car still overheats; that is it goes to at least three quarters or more. not sitting in traffic but local driving; some stop and go, and it is 93 outside and humid. but I don't ever remember seeing those kind of temperatures. the water doesn't seem to be cooling the engine. maybe a blockage somewhere.
funny thing though, I couldn't squeeze water into the engine block with the hose from the radiator, after I shut it down. shouldn't the thermostat be open after it's been running and temperature was way past 210?
for grins. which way does the thermostat go on the intake? I have the birdcage up, what I think to be the probe part down into the intake. is that right?
the good news is that looks like I had a bad res cap. with the new one even as hot as it got it didnt' blow hot water from the cap.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 2,568
Likes: 0
From: Enterprise Oregon
Yes as you said bird cage up then probe ususally copper looking toward the engine-down-With a closed system hard to pump water around--speaking of that hows the water pump?? Antifreeze at 50/50?? --if those ok then you need a new radiator--If your an NCRS type use your upper tank if not go with Dewitt's radiator --they come black for a few bucks more if you want also--Best radiator out there for my money--Glenn
you do have a shroud around the fan right??210 isn't bad for 90 degrees and stop and go --
you do have a shroud around the fan right??210 isn't bad for 90 degrees and stop and go --
Last edited by Glenn's 67 BB Vert; Jul 31, 2007 at 05:40 PM. Reason: splin
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 157
Likes: 2
From: davis ca
Yes as you said bird cage up then probe ususally copper looking toward the engine-down-With a closed system hard to pump water around--speaking of that hows the water pump?? Antifreeze at 50/50?? --if those ok then you need a new radiator--If your an NCRS type use your upper tank if not go with Dewitt's radiator --they come black for a few bucks more if you want also--Best radiator out there for my money--Glenn you do have a shroud around the fan right??210 isn't bad for 90 degrees and stop and go --
you do have a shroud around the fan right??210 isn't bad for 90 degrees and stop and go --right: cooper part towards the engine.
can't tell how the water pump is, no leaking and the fan is pretty tight. don't know how else I could test it;
actually 210 is mid point (straight up) I'm pretty close to the begining of the redline area, so I'm hot.
although the liquid is still green, I'm sure it's more water than antifreeze since I'm been adding water each time it bubbles out of the res cap and when I disconnect the hoses. still I'm very hot for even just water, I would think
I've had the car a long time and I know it's not cooling properly. so aside from a definitive test for the water pump. looks like the next step is the radiator.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 2,568
Likes: 0
From: Enterprise Oregon
Why take a chance replace both --when the water pump is off look at the vanes and see if broken or corroded --do you have a clutch fan if so resistance should be felt when turning by hand--i doubt you have one tho cause you can hear it kick in too--Good luck water pumps are pretty standard tho i'd go for the high flow one when i replace it -and aluminum radiator too-Glenn 
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 157
Likes: 2
From: davis ca
thanks for the question. I usually try to keep it filled alittle below the drain pipe level. could be I've got too much fluid in there, but on my last drive nothing came out, oculd be because I lost quite a bit in removing and reinstalling the thermostat:
also. upon reflection, I"m not inclined to replace the radiator, it looks original to me (we've had the car since 1974). As long as the outside integrity is ok which I think it is, I think I can get it recored for about half the price (did it on my 66 lincoln for $350).
since I don't have a lift and I have very limited mechanical skills, it will probably be off to a shop for the water pump. I think I could probably get the radiator out since it's probably only a couple of bolts. but the pump I guess you have to go in through underneath and I'm not comfortable working on the car with these little drive up lifts, even assuming I knew what I was doing.
Team Owner
Joined: Oct 2000
Posts: 38,897
Likes: 1,920
From: Washington Michigan
thanks for the question. I usually try to keep it filled alittle below the drain pipe level. could be I've got too much fluid in there, but on my last drive nothing came out, oculd be because I lost quite a bit in removing and reinstalling the thermostat:
also. upon reflection, I"m not inclined to replace the radiator, it looks original to me (we've had the car since 1974). As long as the outside integrity is ok which I think it is, I think I can get it recored for about half the price (did it on my 66 lincoln for $350).
also. upon reflection, I"m not inclined to replace the radiator, it looks original to me (we've had the car since 1974). As long as the outside integrity is ok which I think it is, I think I can get it recored for about half the price (did it on my 66 lincoln for $350).
If the radiator is original, it's probably lost at least 30%-40% of its original heat rejection capability due to buildup of internal scale and corrosion, and you can't re-core (or repair) an original aluminum radiator; you have to replace them. Don't replace it with a cheapo look-alike copper/brass radiator - get a DeWitts to restore its full original cooling capacity.
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