Frame Bolts
Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
Joined: Jun 2007
Posts: 1,062
Likes: 10
From: Dallas TX
Frame Bolts
I spent yesterday removing my frame bolts (most of them anyway) and I think everything else needed before I pull the body off. I of course ran into a snag: the head on the #3 frame to body bolt on the drivers side is stripped; both #4 body to frame bolts are spinning the square nut in the rear compartment behind the deck lid spring (convertible). I didn’t have an extra set of hands yesterday so will try again with the #4 bolts. I would like to get some insight on tips for cutting the heads off especially #3 in that little compartment. What tool did you use? Will my little dremel be able to get in there and cut it? Should I drill it out from under the frame instead?
Drifting
Joined: Jul 2007
Posts: 1,671
Likes: 10
From: california
hi, i just pulled my body about 3 weeks ago, what you are going through sounds just about right. after a liberal soaking of everything with break free ( best stuff ever) 5 bolts out, 2 bolts ( actually the caged nuts broke loose) and 3 that never broke loose. what can you expect after 40+ years. if you have air your only solution is to cut the bolts you cant get out with a die grinder 4" cutoff wheels, once the caged nuts spin its all over. you will have to cut into the rubber bushings until you hit the bolt shank then just keep going. you can deal with removing the nuts and cut bolts after the body is off. i didnt cut the bolt heads off because i didnt want to damage the frame brackets. when you are ready to pull the body i started a thread 3-4 weeks ago titled "body pull questions" i asked all the same questions you will probably ask and when i finished i posted the details of the body pull that i didnt get answers to. i found 2 mount bolts under the carpet at the rear corner of the floor by the consul that were not on the frame diagram i had, if you have these you can see them from under the car comming out. i hope my experience helps you. took me 3 days just on the bolts. your at the worst part of the job but you will feel a lot better when the bolts are taken care of.
Drifting
Joined: Jul 2007
Posts: 1,671
Likes: 10
From: california
i missed the part about the #3 bolt, mine both came out. i just went out and looked at both frame and body, did you try a 6 point impact socket?? if it is rounded the bolt heads got to come off. that bolt goes through the fiberglass body then through the channel in the birdcage then into the caged nut in the frame bracket, you cant get to the caged nut with the body on so either dremel the head off through the access hole ( augh ) just went and looked again, you will have to remove the bolt head through the access hole. i was going to suggest opening the access hole to get some working room as i thought it was just fiberglass but the birdcage structure is in there, maybe a die grinder with a stone or carbide burr mounted. good luck, just keep at it.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 2,202
Likes: 15
From: Keswick Ontario
if the nuts are spinning in the cage just stick a big screwdriver or something in there to stop it. preferably with the pressure being directed to the frame if you can.
and of course lots of penetrating oil.
and of course lots of penetrating oil.
Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
Joined: Jun 2007
Posts: 1,062
Likes: 10
From: Dallas TX
Thanks Mechron for the insight....i'll go back and re-read your earlier posts. That is how I found the two bolts that are in the floorpans and are not in the assembly manual.
The #3 bolt, the stripped head is on the body with the caged nut on the frame....I think I am going to try and dremel that off or some other method....not sure about clearance because it is in that little access compartment.
The #4 bolts are just the opposite with the caged nut on the body inside the rear compartment and the head on the frame. I may be able to twist those off with an extra set of hands.
The #3 bolt, the stripped head is on the body with the caged nut on the frame....I think I am going to try and dremel that off or some other method....not sure about clearance because it is in that little access compartment.
The #4 bolts are just the opposite with the caged nut on the body inside the rear compartment and the head on the frame. I may be able to twist those off with an extra set of hands.
Drifting
Joined: Jul 2007
Posts: 1,671
Likes: 10
From: california
Thanks Mechron for the insight....i'll go back and re-read your earlier posts. That is how I found the two bolts that are in the floorpans and are not in the assembly manual.
The #3 bolt, the stripped head is on the body with the caged nut on the frame....I think I am going to try and dremel that off or some other method....not sure about clearance because it is in that little access compartment.
The #4 bolts are just the opposite with the caged nut on the body inside the rear compartment and the head on the frame. I may be able to twist those off with an extra set of hands.
The #3 bolt, the stripped head is on the body with the caged nut on the frame....I think I am going to try and dremel that off or some other method....not sure about clearance because it is in that little access compartment.
The #4 bolts are just the opposite with the caged nut on the body inside the rear compartment and the head on the frame. I may be able to twist those off with an extra set of hands.
yes. the #4 bolt goes in from the bottom but if the caged nut is spinning it probably wont break loose.(40 years of rust) the good thing is compared to the #3 bolt theres lots of room to cut the bolts
