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It's all a matter of personal preference and driving style. A properly-maintained or new Muncie shifter is a delight - smooth and precise; a worn-out one is not. If you like banging gears regularly, a Hurst is probably a better choice.
I have rebuilt a bunch of both shifters and in my opinion the Hurst shifter was designed for banging gears.
The Muncie I don't think was designed for the same abuse.
The Muncie and Hurst 4sp basic design is 3 slide plates with a floating lever that can select a plate and move it forward or back.
The selector on the Muncie is about a 1/2 in by 1/4 inch fork
The selector on the Hurst is about a 1 1/2 in diameter pin.
The Hurst selector is probably at least 10 times the surface area of the Muncie selector and the rest of the Hurst parts are also as much times as strong as the Muncie.
The Muncie will work fine if set up right and not abused
The Hurst will take any abuse you can give it IMO
I agree with John Z. My '64 has the stock shifter and although it is not 100% trouble free, I love the "click-click" of a gentle gear change. I bang gears in an '01 on roads when I'm all by myself. Just getting too old I guess.
I currently have a stock shifter. I want to put a hurst in. Do I need to change linkages?
thx
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How did this thread get so carried away from the original question? All he wanted to know was whether or not he had to change linkages when he put a Hurst in his car. It was not a question as to which shifter was better.
How did this thread get so carried away from the original question? All he wanted to know was whether or not he had to change linkages when he put a Hurst in his car. It was not a question as to which shifter was better.
Steve
My answer is no - you do not. I use the heavy forged GM rods and spring locks instead of the wimpy junk that is currently sold with a Hurst.
40 years ago Hurst linkage rods were heavier, but IMO they were never a match for the heavy GM rods.
PS I have been using an old Hurst shifter and GM linkage rods for 16/17 years now.
PPS The GM shifters are (buzz) noisy and prone to locking the trans in two gears.
Last edited by magicv8; Aug 9, 2007 at 12:32 PM.
Reason: ps
The 64 hanger is a completely different design than the 63. But from the other posts the center hanger and hurst shifter must work in the other midyears, just didn't in mine. I put it together the way it showed in the AIM
Craig
i have a 64 with the stock hanger and hurst shifter and have plenty of clearance. maybe bad tranny mount???
i have a 64 with the stock hanger and hurst shifter and have plenty of clearance. maybe bad tranny mount???
I guess I'll have to give it another try this fall, once it cools off in my garage. To damn hot to be laying under the car now. Sure would be nice to have a lift.
Last edited by cramus; Aug 9, 2007 at 09:40 PM.
Reason: spelling
ALL of mine worked VERY well but they all were transmission mounted. Have you ever driven a NEW car with a NEW Muncie with a NEW factory shifter? A New car with a NEW muncie with a NEW facrory shifter works better then a USED car with a USED Muncie with a USED factory shifter. A bunch, maybe most, of the old cars with 4 speed transmissions running around now are made up of parts from many different sources. In the past 43 years, Bubba really got around, and it's not fair to compare a car with parts from different cars, most likely installed by Bubba, to a NEW car with NEW factory parts.
Granted, a transmission mounted shifter is better then a frame mounted one and installing a Hurst is the easest way out, but you could install a factory transmission shifter in place of the factory frame mounted shifter. The Hurst is a great shifter, but that dosen't mean that a factory shifter is a POS. Just compare new to new, not new to used.
i think you hit the nail on the head. granted the hurst shifter is a great shifter but the stock shifters work just fine provided they are trans mounted and are not worn out. remember these cars are 40+- years old. i would bet everybody that says the stock shifter is a POS is talking about a wornout maladjusted shifter. a lot of the complaints above are describing exactly what happens when shifters wear. back in the 70s( when these cars were 10+- years old) when there were a lot more of these cars on the road worn out shifters were not uncommon. i used to repair a lot of the stock shifters. i would take them apart, identify the wear points and places that had sloppy tolerences from the factory and braze up holes and worn/sloppy parts and refinish until they operated smoothly with no slop. true they are no hurst but for street driving they felt just as good, they had to be adjusted carefully to work right, you cant adjust a shifter right no matter what if its worn. all the compaints i hear about rattleing, hanging up between gears, etc. are all wear related. one poster above mentioned the car getting stuck in 2 gears at the same time-that happens when a shifter is GROSSLY worn out!! i think a lot of you would change you mind if you drove a car with a tight factory shifter!!
I have a 66 stock muncie with a frame mounted shifter. Can I convert it to the transmission mounted shifter by just changing the bracket? Will this improve shifter performance? I too have a shifter rattle above 3000 rpm.
Well my 63 has a Hurst Competition Plus shifter mounted and I love it. It has been on my car a "real long" time;-) I drive my car pretty hard, and in more than 40 years I have never had a problem with my Hurst shifter, and only rebuilt my original transmission last summer.....out of boredom, not because it needed it.
i have a 64 with the stock hanger and hurst shifter and have plenty of clearance. maybe bad tranny mount???
The Hurst shifter made specifically for the C2 Corvette application has a special reverse shifter lever shaped to move the rod attaching point forward, to clear the exhaust hanger bracket. Note the shape of the reverse lever in the photo below.
The Hurst shifter made specifically for the C2 Corvette application has a special reverse shifter lever shaped to move the rod attaching point forward, to clear the exhaust hanger bracket. Note the shape of the reverse lever in the photo below.
hi john, i have the body off mine and the driveline is disassembled, my hurst looks nothing like the one in your picture. my reverse lever extends straight down like the other two except its about 3/4 " longer. i cant post a pic but its a hurst CP, number stamped on the housing is 663810 and the reverse lever is stamped 3405. i see the ins. sheet in your picture says for 63-66. i have no clearance issues with the reverse lever extending straight down, trans mount, mount bracket on frame, exhaust bracket are all stock not modified. im confused.
just thinking, maybe theres a difference in the aluminum mount plate between the shifter and trans???
i just looked at your pic again, my shifter actually looks just like that with the exception of the reverse shift lever, which is in line with the other 2 and 3/4 inch longer.
The Hurst shifter made specifically for the C2 Corvette application has a special reverse shifter lever shaped to move the rod attaching point forward, to clear the exhaust hanger bracket. Note the shape of the reverse lever in the photo below.
Now you got me wondering what my hanger interference problem is. I'm going to end up on my back in a hundred degree garage trying to see if my shifter looks like John's picture. Jeeze sometime I wish you guys weren't so darn smart
The Hurst shifter made specifically for the C2 Corvette application has a special reverse shifter lever shaped to move the rod attaching point forward, to clear the exhaust hanger bracket. Note the shape of the reverse lever in the photo below.
Hi
I bought one like John Z has...I was told they were sold in the 60s and they were a "direct replacement" (Designed for C2 Corvette) I bought one used for 40 bucks...I had the stick rechromed.. had the shifting unit rebuilt by HURST and bought the hurst linkage kit (Still available)
I have to say...I love the "old style" shifter looks and I like the response of clean crisp shifts compared to the rebuilt stock shifter that came with my Corvette.
Down side
Every "****" NCRS "wanna be" points out that the shifter "isnt" stock in my Corvette... I just look and smile...I say if I could go back to 1963 and bought this car new (Impossible born in 1968)..The "FIRST" thing I would do is take the "crappy" GM shifter out and put a solid HURST shifter in it!!!!! Besides there is a "cool" factor in my opinion when looking at that gleaming rechromed stick with the big white shifter ball.. Also fun speed shifting and going through the gears is also cool factor too..
Blk63Vette NCRS "wanna be" points out that the shifter "isnt" stock in my Corvette... I just look and smile...I say if I could go back to 1963 and bought this car new (Impossible born in 1968)..The "FIRST" thing I would do is take the "crappy" GM shifter out and put a solid HURST shifter in it!!!!! Besides there is a "cool" factor in my opinion when looking at that gleaming rechromed stick with the big white shifter ball.. Also fun speed shifting and going through the gears is also cool factor too..
just my .02 [/QUOTE]
Blk63Vette , Simlar experience, got my 66 in 94 very nice / driver condition.... ( 1967 vinyl seats in perfect condition ) ........NCRS guys >> "eeek you have 67 seats in your 66"...........now many years later they ( 67 seats not NCRS guys)are tired / stiching pulling ect..so have new foam & 66 leather covers will put on this winter ............... regarding hurst competion plus i have had the look a like shifter so there has been no comments from NCRS dudes ........ sorry to drift away from the original topic ...but I like to Babble >>
I havebelonged to NCRS since 1988
2 cents from the Old Dog .............
Last edited by StrayDog; Aug 11, 2007 at 08:45 AM.
Reason: spellin
I have a 66 stock muncie with a frame mounted shifter. Can I convert it to the transmission mounted shifter by just changing the bracket? Will this improve shifter performance? I too have a shifter rattle above 3000 rpm.
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I believe that you can. You need the bracket and the 3 flat/Allen wrench screws that attach it to the tranny. Bolt up should be the same as the frame mounted one. Don't know if it will improve "performance" other than it should not bind as much when you power shift, if you dare to with the Muncie shifter. I don't think it will take care of your rattle though. That is simply a function of the shifter itself.
Steve thanks for the info. I planned to pull the shifter, rebuild it and mount it to the transmission, use the short throw holes on the bottom of the transmission arms and hope for the best.
Since this subject is so popular , I'm writing a photo-illustrated tech article right now on a step-by-step rebuild of a Muncie shifter to return it to its original smooth, precise operation. Took all the photos this morning while rebuilding a cruddy old one. Will be in the January '08 issue of "Corvette Enthusiast" magazine, out in early November.
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