Disc Brake Conversion
Instructor
Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 227
Likes: 0
From: Dallas Texas
We have made the conversion many times. We normally switch to the 67 MC and 65-67 Front Hubs. We can do it for you if you wish. We are located in Farmers Branch - 635 and 35E. Duntov Motor Company 972-243-3838
Le Mans Master
Joined: Oct 2000
Posts: 8,897
Likes: 1,357
From: Santa Ana CA
Take a donor car from '65 or later and take everything between the front ball joints. It's a direct bolt on and the easiest way to do this.
Go to the autoparts store and ask for a master cylinder for a manual brake '70 Corvette. They're cheap, but be sure that the surface area that the cap sits on is nice and smooth before you take/use it. If its not (and that is often the case with recores), seal up the ports with tape or such and rub it on sand paper until it is. Then clean it well. If not, you may end up with a leak under the cap (like I did) and have to take it off to smooth it out.
Plumb the front port to the front brake line "T"near the steering box. Close up the rear port of the "T" with a plug. I replaced the "T" with a line-lock. They're not that expensive and they are cool!
They're also nice for the hills.
Plumb the rear port of the M/C to a 10# residual valve, then to an adjustable proportioning valve, then to the rear break line, that you have either relocated, or added an extention to.
Install the spindle assemblies with new ball joints. Connect the brake lines, bleed the brakes if the donor was in good shape (or do a "brake job" then bleed the brakes), get the car aligned, and you got it.
Go to the autoparts store and ask for a master cylinder for a manual brake '70 Corvette. They're cheap, but be sure that the surface area that the cap sits on is nice and smooth before you take/use it. If its not (and that is often the case with recores), seal up the ports with tape or such and rub it on sand paper until it is. Then clean it well. If not, you may end up with a leak under the cap (like I did) and have to take it off to smooth it out.
Plumb the front port to the front brake line "T"near the steering box. Close up the rear port of the "T" with a plug. I replaced the "T" with a line-lock. They're not that expensive and they are cool!
They're also nice for the hills.Plumb the rear port of the M/C to a 10# residual valve, then to an adjustable proportioning valve, then to the rear break line, that you have either relocated, or added an extention to.
Install the spindle assemblies with new ball joints. Connect the brake lines, bleed the brakes if the donor was in good shape (or do a "brake job" then bleed the brakes), get the car aligned, and you got it.
Last edited by toddalin; Aug 28, 2007 at 08:53 PM.
