Altenator conversion help?
Thread Starter
Navigator
Joined: Mar 2005
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Altenator conversion help?
Ive got a 66 small block car and I want to upgrade the charging system to an internal voltage regulator or possibly a 1 wire set-up.
I'm sure one of you guys have done this before and some step-by-step guidance would be a huge help, but just pointing me in the right direction for the info would be greatly appreciated as well.
Thanks,
Jeff Hart
jmhart9@bellsout.net
I'm sure one of you guys have done this before and some step-by-step guidance would be a huge help, but just pointing me in the right direction for the info would be greatly appreciated as well.
Thanks,
Jeff Hart
jmhart9@bellsout.net
Melting Slicks
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 2,450
Likes: 315
From: Scottsdale AZ
Meet my Friends WWW.Madelectrical.com
Here is the source of good data, Its really pretty easy. Begin you studies here. Dont use a one wire alternator. Do add relays for your headlights.
Safety Car
Joined: Jun 2000
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From: St. Louis MO
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Race Director
Joined: Jun 2006
Posts: 17,901
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From: Inverness FL
St. Jude Donor '07
my .02; DO NOT use a 1 wire... 
Bill
i guess i should explain why you shouldn't use a 1-wire.
the 1-wire alternator generally does not provide any charge until the rpms get high enough for it to generate enough internal power to begin output; this usually occurs above 1500 rpms.
short version: it doesn't charge at idle... it is best suited to applications where the rpms are consistently above 1500.
Bill
i guess i should explain why you shouldn't use a 1-wire.
the 1-wire alternator generally does not provide any charge until the rpms get high enough for it to generate enough internal power to begin output; this usually occurs above 1500 rpms.
short version: it doesn't charge at idle... it is best suited to applications where the rpms are consistently above 1500.
Last edited by wmf62; Sep 17, 2007 at 04:07 PM. Reason: explanation
Burning Brakes
Joined: Sep 2004
Posts: 1,224
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From: Ventura Calif
Has anyone used the waterpump that has an alternator integrated into it (it's pretty slick)? Know how much current it produces and how much it costs? I think it takes an external regulator?
Le Mans Master
Joined: May 2000
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From: Halifax, Nova Scotia, Canada NS
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Le Mans Master
Joined: May 2000
Posts: 6,158
Likes: 395
From: Halifax, Nova Scotia, Canada NS
I think the GM 10Si alternator (3 wire) would be a better fit then the one wire...
Here's a link to a comparison of the two...
http://www.madelectrical.com/electri...hreewire.shtml
Here's a link to a comparison of the two...
http://www.madelectrical.com/electri...hreewire.shtml
Drifting
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 1,421
Likes: 6
From: Cortes Island, BC
I read this over before having my original '64 alternator rebuilt by a local shop. Replaced the regulator at the same time and now have ~14 V and 70 A max output.
Burning Brakes
Joined: Sep 2004
Posts: 1,224
Likes: 49
From: Ventura Calif
Racer
Joined: Jun 2003
Posts: 290
Likes: 1
From: Torrington Ct
I don't understand this one wire thing.
What is the reason that people even want 1 wire alternators? It cannot be just the the fact that there is only 1 wire......... can it???? Are people realy thinking that 1 wire is more neat and clean LOOKING than two or three wires and not even considering the operational limitations of 1 wire alternators???? A buddy ofmine is building a street rod and he has one. I expect that he is going to see that it is not as "cool" as he thinks but since he already has the thing I am not saying anything.
What is the reason that people even want 1 wire alternators? It cannot be just the the fact that there is only 1 wire......... can it???? Are people realy thinking that 1 wire is more neat and clean LOOKING than two or three wires and not even considering the operational limitations of 1 wire alternators???? A buddy ofmine is building a street rod and he has one. I expect that he is going to see that it is not as "cool" as he thinks but since he already has the thing I am not saying anything.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Oct 2000
Posts: 8,897
Likes: 1,353
From: Santa Ana CA
my .02; DO NOT use a 1 wire...
Bill
i guess i should explain why you shouldn't use a 1-wire.
the 1-wire alternator generally does not provide any charge until the rpms get high enough for it to generate enough internal power to begin output; this usually occurs above 1500 rpms.
short version: it doesn't charge at idle... it is best suited to applications where the rpms are consistently above 1500.
Bill
i guess i should explain why you shouldn't use a 1-wire.
the 1-wire alternator generally does not provide any charge until the rpms get high enough for it to generate enough internal power to begin output; this usually occurs above 1500 rpms.
short version: it doesn't charge at idle... it is best suited to applications where the rpms are consistently above 1500.
Yes, you have to goose the engine up to about 1,200-1,300 RPMs, but just once when you start the car..., and who doesn't do that anyway?
After that, it stays energized and will charge at idle like the stock alternator until the ignition is shut off.
Mine is rated at 100 amps and certainly outperforms the stock 42 amp (or whatever it was) unit.
Just mount the thing, attach the red wire that goes to the battery, and you're done. I also attached the old ground wire to the case, because it was there and couldn't hurt. I just cut the two wires on the plug and tucked them back into the loom. Can't get much easier than that.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Oct 2000
Posts: 8,897
Likes: 1,353
From: Santa Ana CA
I don't understand this one wire thing.
What is the reason that people even want 1 wire alternators? It cannot be just the the fact that there is only 1 wire......... can it???? Are people realy thinking that 1 wire is more neat and clean LOOKING than two or three wires and not even considering the operational limitations of 1 wire alternators???? A buddy ofmine is building a street rod and he has one. I expect that he is going to see that it is not as "cool" as he thinks but since he already has the thing I am not saying anything.
What is the reason that people even want 1 wire alternators? It cannot be just the the fact that there is only 1 wire......... can it???? Are people realy thinking that 1 wire is more neat and clean LOOKING than two or three wires and not even considering the operational limitations of 1 wire alternators???? A buddy ofmine is building a street rod and he has one. I expect that he is going to see that it is not as "cool" as he thinks but since he already has the thing I am not saying anything.
And what operational limitations??? I have to goose the engine once to about 1,200 -1,300 RPM when I start the car (and who doesn't do that???) and after that it stays energized and functions like the old unit (except it puts out a lot more current).
Race Director
Joined: Jun 2006
Posts: 17,901
Likes: 751
From: Inverness FL
St. Jude Donor '07
Sorry, but you're wrong. I use a 1-wire alternator on my '64 with absolutly no problems.
Yes, you have to goose the engine up to about 1,200-1,300 RPMs, but just once when you start the car..., and who doesn't do that anyway?
After that, it stays energized and will charge at idle like the stock alternator until the ignition is shut off.
Mine is rated at 100 amps and certainly outperforms the stock 42 amp (or whatever it was) unit.
Just mount the thing, attach the red wire that goes to the battery, and you're done. I also attached the old ground wire to the case, because it was there and couldn't hurt. I just cut the two wires on the plug and tucked them back into the loom. Can't get much easier than that.
Yes, you have to goose the engine up to about 1,200-1,300 RPMs, but just once when you start the car..., and who doesn't do that anyway?
After that, it stays energized and will charge at idle like the stock alternator until the ignition is shut off.
Mine is rated at 100 amps and certainly outperforms the stock 42 amp (or whatever it was) unit.
Just mount the thing, attach the red wire that goes to the battery, and you're done. I also attached the old ground wire to the case, because it was there and couldn't hurt. I just cut the two wires on the plug and tucked them back into the loom. Can't get much easier than that.
Bill
Team Owner
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 23,831
Likes: 10
From: Springfield MO
St. Jude Donor '07
Goes beyond just the aesthetics of the one wire. You also get to throw away the harness and the external regulator that clutters up the radiator support.
And what operational limitations??? I have to goose the engine once to about 1,200 -1,300 RPM when I start the car (and who doesn't do that???) and after that it stays energized and functions like the old unit (except it puts out a lot more current).
And what operational limitations??? I have to goose the engine once to about 1,200 -1,300 RPM when I start the car (and who doesn't do that???) and after that it stays energized and functions like the old unit (except it puts out a lot more current).
Le Mans Master
Joined: Oct 2000
Posts: 8,897
Likes: 1,353
From: Santa Ana CA
Anyway, don't you think that they would have found a way around the "sense" wire?
Always seemed to me on an alternator that you have a battery connection, a ground, a field, and a secondary "boost" wire for the lights (your noted "sense" wire). Seems to me that the only connection that could be lost is the "boost" for the lights, and if it is putting out near its 100 amp rating, this would need to be enabled internally with a jumper.
Team Owner
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 23,831
Likes: 10
From: Springfield MO
St. Jude Donor '07
OK..., so I'm only getting 99 of my 100 amp rating??? It's still far more than the original 38 or 42 amps.
Anyway, don't you think that they would have found a way around the "sense" wire?
Always seemed to me on an alternator that you have a battery connection, a ground, a field, and a secondary "boost" wire for the lights (your noted "sense" wire). Seems to me that the only connection that could be lost is the "boost" for the lights, and if it is putting out near its 100 amp rating, this would need to be enabled internally with a jumper.
Anyway, don't you think that they would have found a way around the "sense" wire?
Always seemed to me on an alternator that you have a battery connection, a ground, a field, and a secondary "boost" wire for the lights (your noted "sense" wire). Seems to me that the only connection that could be lost is the "boost" for the lights, and if it is putting out near its 100 amp rating, this would need to be enabled internally with a jumper.
Here's the facts on the way the different systems work. Everyone is welcome to educate themselves: http://www.madelectrical.com/electri...hreewire.shtml
Burning Brakes
Joined: Dec 2004
Posts: 800
Likes: 3
From: Idaho
I have a 140 amp 1 wire alternator that I've run for 5 years without problems, however if I ever break down in the middle of the boonies I'm screwed. Not many auto parts stores carry 1 wire replacements.
Russ
Russ
Burning Brakes
Joined: Jul 2003
Posts: 786
Likes: 15
From: Emporia, pay no attention to that man behind the curtain, KS
I put a 1-wire in my '60 somewhere around 12 years ago. I never had any problems, until the bearings started making noise a couple of months ago. So I took it to O'Reilly's and traded it in for another 1-wire alternator. They carry them in stock, or at least the O'Reilly's in Emporia KS does. It was rebuilt by Dixie Electric, who is a major rebuilder. Detroit Diesel Remanfacturing buys starters and alternators from Dixie Electric.
And in my opinion, the MAD Electric article that is linked to above is not much more than a glorified sales pitch.
Have a nice day.
And in my opinion, the MAD Electric article that is linked to above is not much more than a glorified sales pitch.
Have a nice day.