Interesting problem with the headlights....
Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 1,133
Likes: 2
From: Corona CA
Interesting problem with the headlights....
Here is the situation:
65 Convertible
New LL wire harness (entire car)
New Headlight switch
New Dimmer switch
New Headlamps (halogens)
Relay for the Low Beams, High Beams still operate through the harness.
Low beams work fine, High beams also work, but if the Highs are on for about a minute they start to flicker, light a loose connection, after a while the Lows start to flicker too. Tail lights and interior lights will flicker too but I think it is just a voltage drop thing. This is with the engine off, and I put a charger on the battery to keep it topped off but it happens with or without the charger. Since it was both highs and lows I suspected a ground but that doesn't seem to be it. Next I suspected a bad breaker, since I could hear some clicking in that area, but nope the breaker is ok, and I shorted it out just to be sure. The sound is coming form the headlamp switch. It is a crackle clicking sound....is there some sort of thermal protection in the switch? It is not overly hot, and should have alot less current moving through it since the low beams are relay driven.....
Any ideas, besides replacing the new light switch?
Darren
65 Convertible
New LL wire harness (entire car)
New Headlight switch
New Dimmer switch
New Headlamps (halogens)
Relay for the Low Beams, High Beams still operate through the harness.
Low beams work fine, High beams also work, but if the Highs are on for about a minute they start to flicker, light a loose connection, after a while the Lows start to flicker too. Tail lights and interior lights will flicker too but I think it is just a voltage drop thing. This is with the engine off, and I put a charger on the battery to keep it topped off but it happens with or without the charger. Since it was both highs and lows I suspected a ground but that doesn't seem to be it. Next I suspected a bad breaker, since I could hear some clicking in that area, but nope the breaker is ok, and I shorted it out just to be sure. The sound is coming form the headlamp switch. It is a crackle clicking sound....is there some sort of thermal protection in the switch? It is not overly hot, and should have alot less current moving through it since the low beams are relay driven.....
Any ideas, besides replacing the new light switch?
Darren
Drifting
Joined: Dec 2002
Posts: 1,946
Likes: 28
From: Long Beach CA
There is no thermal protection in the light switch, just sliding contacts. It could still be a voltage problem, even with the charger. The halogen headlights, along with the taillights, instrument panel lights, etc. will draw a lot of current off the battery. A small charger won't keep up. Does it still do it with the engine running, or isn't the car in shape to run the engine yet?
Melting Slicks
Joined: Nov 2002
Posts: 2,460
Likes: 5
From: Wheaton IL
have no idea if this is connected to your problem but check out this thread on incorrectly wired (or at least labled) headlight harnesses from LL.
http://www.ncrs.org/forum/tech.cgi/read/302350
Regards,
brian
http://www.ncrs.org/forum/tech.cgi/read/302350
Regards,
brian
Team Owner
Joined: Oct 2000
Posts: 38,897
Likes: 1,926
From: Washington Michigan
Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 1,133
Likes: 2
From: Corona CA
So this is sounding like a short or a defective switch/circuit breaker.
I don't think it is a short as it takes a minute to occur and during that time current draw is normal. I imagine changing the high beams over to a relay would probably be a band-aid fix since then there would be only the relay current and the current for the other related bulbs through the headlight switch.....I may do that at some point to get the high beams up to full brightness but I think I will try a different switch first, as if it is the switch and a defective breaker it doesn't seem good to leave it.
John any idea what the rating is supposed to be on that breaker? I would have guessed it at about 30-40A. If I replace it I want to test both and see if there is a difference before installing a new one.
LB6633, It does this even without the charger, I don't know about with the engine on but I could try it....The charger is of the jump start variety able to deliver 75A which should be adequate and main voltage doesn't really drop much except with the first load hit as the lights come back up. And the battery is fully charged I just keep the charger on it when doing the tests so it doesn't get discharged too much.
Checking on the thread mentioned above...
Thanks
Darren
I don't think it is a short as it takes a minute to occur and during that time current draw is normal. I imagine changing the high beams over to a relay would probably be a band-aid fix since then there would be only the relay current and the current for the other related bulbs through the headlight switch.....I may do that at some point to get the high beams up to full brightness but I think I will try a different switch first, as if it is the switch and a defective breaker it doesn't seem good to leave it.
John any idea what the rating is supposed to be on that breaker? I would have guessed it at about 30-40A. If I replace it I want to test both and see if there is a difference before installing a new one.
LB6633, It does this even without the charger, I don't know about with the engine on but I could try it....The charger is of the jump start variety able to deliver 75A which should be adequate and main voltage doesn't really drop much except with the first load hit as the lights come back up. And the battery is fully charged I just keep the charger on it when doing the tests so it doesn't get discharged too much.
Checking on the thread mentioned above...
Thanks
Darren
Cruising
Joined: Oct 2006
Posts: 12
Likes: 0
From: Cantley Québec
I had a similar problem with my 64. Like you, i had a new LL wiring installed. The problem was only with the high beam and low beam. They where flickering like yours. Change the headlight switch and the problem was solve.
Guy
Guy
Burning Brakes
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 941
Likes: 160
From: Edmonton Alberta
I tend to agree with 64 Roadster. Headlight switch. The contacts get corroded and worn to the point of becoming non-functional. It looks to be the weak link in the system right now due to it's age.
65-StingRay
65-StingRay
Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 1,133
Likes: 2
From: Corona CA
I just hate replacing new parts....oh well....
Is there anything special about the headlight switch? Could I get one at a parts store, or GM....maybe cheaper than the paying for a corvette specialty place to ship me one...that might not work yet again.
Thanks
Darren
Is there anything special about the headlight switch? Could I get one at a parts store, or GM....maybe cheaper than the paying for a corvette specialty place to ship me one...that might not work yet again.
Thanks
Darren
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