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From: Park City to SoCal - according to the map it's all down hill. No bad days in Indian Wells, California
The Dreaded Electrical Problems
I have gone back and looked at the threads here dealing with dead batteries and the issues surrounding what causes them.
My battery dies every night on my 64 convertible ...... Done the test across the alternator and it's charging OK. I've taken all the fuses out, disconnected the positive battery terminal and still have a current across the positive battery terminal and the battery cable. I can't seem to figure out what I need to do, but obviously it's a dead short some where. I've pulled the connector off the new voltage regulator as well as pulling the two firewall connectors off. Still have a reading on the meter. (By the way, the connector on the left - looking at them - does not come all the way off, looks like wires running throught the connector into the firewall; is that right?
So anybody got an idea(s) as to what to start checking?
I have gone back and looked at the threads here dealing with dead batteries and the issues surrounding what causes them.
My battery dies every night on my 64 convertible ...... Done the test across the alternator and it's charging OK. I've taken all the fuses out, disconnected the positive battery terminal and still have a current across the positive battery terminal and the battery cable. I can't seem to figure out what I need to do, but obviously it's a dead short some where. I've pulled the connector off the new voltage regulator as well as pulling the two firewall connectors off. Still have a reading on the meter. (By the way, the connector on the left - looking at them - does not come all the way off, looks like wires running throught the connector into the firewall; is that right?
So anybody got an idea(s) as to what to start checking?
Thanks in advance
Rich
Thats a pretty serious drain, not a short though. Shorts let the smoke out. Have you pulled both the main wire and the connector off of the alternator ?
Just a thought, you might want to check the black ground wire on the starter that it was not installed on the positive side of the starter solenoid. It should be attached to the starter bolt. John.
Last edited by Trophy Blue; Oct 21, 2007 at 07:10 PM.
Rich, "the connector on the left - looking at them - does not come all the way off, looks like wires running throught the connector into the firewall; is that right?" No,it's not normal. See if one of the pins has over heated, melted the plug and possibly touching another. Look at a wiring diagram and try to determine which one is hanging up. Another possibility is the pin connector was replaced by a wire running through the plug, because it melted in the past.
From: Park City to SoCal - according to the map it's all down hill. No bad days in Indian Wells, California
OK, here's answers to above
Yep, pulled everything off the alternator and same meter reading
Have to check the wires at the starter/solenoid, but it hasn't always done this. Some days it's OK, other days the battery is dead.
Connector on the left is looking kinda poor. The wires running to it (right at the connector) show some corrosion. I think I need to get in there and see what's wrong. The connector pins may be bad enough have melted together.
Thanks and I'll go out in the shop and see what I can do. But additional ideas are always welcome.
(By the way, the connector on the left - looking at them - does not come all the way off, looks like wires running throught the connector into the firewall; is that right?
Rich
No it isn't right. The wires disconnect with the plastic connector.
The items that normally have power when all the fuses are removed:
headlamps switch (has internal switch breaker)
horn relay
alternator
voltage regulator
power windows
starter solenoid
lighter
power antenna
headlamp switch (through breaker)
ignition switch
both sides of the battery meter
anything added to the car: alarm, choke, etcetera
put a diagnostic ammeter between the battery(+) and the cable and start disconnecting these items. Disconnect/reconnect ammeter line to the battery cable with each test until the ammeter says you have disconnected the problem.
PS If you disconnect the pass/RH bulkhead connector (mentioned above), everything mentioned above that is behind the bulkhead is disconnected at the same time. If the ammeter says the drain is gone when the plug is disconnected, it's one of those items. The red wire in that plug goes to a splice that powers all the items mentioned behind the bulkhead.
Last edited by magicv8; Oct 21, 2007 at 08:51 PM.
Reason: ps
Just tackled my gremlin, mechanic found that two pins on one of the firewall connectors were touching.
I went through the same checklist, disconnecting everything I thought could be the culprit. Luckily my mechanic has 25+ years experience on these cars....
From: Park City to SoCal - according to the map it's all down hill. No bad days in Indian Wells, California
OK, I can't seem to see what the problem is at the firewall connector because the top two wires run through the connector and into the back of the fuse panel inside the car.
What are the 2 top connectors on the left side (inward) firewall connector? My wire diagram is a little misleading as to what these exact pins should be.
Also, how does the fuse panel disconnect from the inside?
As always, THANKS - and just an FYI, it was 83 and clear all day here in Southern CA. No fires in my direct vicinity...... but have friends who are now homeless.
Also, how does the fuse panel disconnect from the inside?
My fuzzy memory after last year's wiring fun, was that the 2 screws that hold the fuse panel to the firewall, keep the 2 halves of the fuse box together.
Glad to hear the fires have avoided you, sorry to hear about your friends.
What are the 2 top connectors on the left side (inward) firewall connector? My wire diagram is a little misleading as to what these exact pins should be.
Also, how does the fuse panel disconnect from the inside?
Rich
Here's a wiring diagram you can download, view, customize, or colorize: http://www.corvetteforum.net/classic.../64_wiring.jpg
or you can link to it anytime off my forum web pages and print an 8.5x11 version for your glove compartment.
Disconnect your clock!!!!
Had the same problem. Did NOT drain current all of the time. To verify it's the clock, put an AMP meter in series with your battery and tap a few times on your dash and watch the amp meter swing indicating it's drawing current. If you like, just disconnect the clock and see if the problem goes away.
Lou loup1962@aol.com
From: Park City to SoCal - according to the map it's all down hill. No bad days in Indian Wells, California
I thought I had it solved. Wenesday put in a new solenoid and Thursday motning it fired right up. But this morning it's the same old thing - dead battery.
So it's back to the drawing board and more tests. Gotta be a wire shorting out somewhere.
I have an idea it may be related to the parking brake. When it's on seems like the battery goes dead over night.
From: Park City to SoCal - according to the map it's all down hill. No bad days in Indian Wells, California
The negative terminal on the battery has a black wire (in additional to the negative No. 4 braided terminal cable) that runs into the wire harness along the top of the firewall. My wire diagram does not show this.
a bad alternator diode can discharge a batt while not running and still charge while running. when you disconnect the alternator, pull the plug and disconnect the red wire.
chuck