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Starter on my 67 427 took a dump. Went to the local speed shop, got a hi-performance starter as I have 12.5-1 comp.
When I go to fire the motor and release the key, the motor dies.
The new starter did not have the two small poles ( s & r ) as the chevy starter did, only one small pole. The guy at the speed shop said to hook both wires ( red & purple ) to the one small pole.
Starter on my 67 427 took a dump. Went to the local speed shop, got a hi-performance starter as I have 12.5-1 comp.
When I go to fire the motor and release the key, the motor dies.
The new starter did not have the two small poles ( s & r ) as the chevy starter did, only one small pole. The guy at the speed shop said to hook both wires ( red & purple ) to the one small pole.
Any suggestions?
Sounds like you didnt hook up the wire from the key switch.
I don't know if this will help or not. On mine (high-torque mini starter) I hooked the red wire with the battery cable on the larger terminal and the purple wire to the smaller terminal marked as "S" and eliminated the black w/pink stripe wire. I'm also using an MSD ignition which calls for the elimination of this wire in the circuit.
Check to see if you have voltage to the + side of the coil with the key in the on/run position. I don't have a wiring diagram handy, but if I remember right the R terminal on the starter supplies 12 volts to the coil during cranking. Once you release the key to the run position there should be 12 volts to the balast resister and somewhat less at the coil.
Starter on my 67 427 took a dump. Went to the local speed shop, got a hi-performance starter as I have 12.5-1 comp.
When I go to fire the motor and release the key, the motor dies.
The new starter did not have the two small poles ( s & r ) as the chevy starter did, only one small pole. The guy at the speed shop said to hook both wires ( red & purple ) to the one small pole.
Any suggestions?
I have always felt that GM made a great starter and never felt a need for anything else out there. I usually rebuild my own starters. Most of the time if the brushes are still good a new solenoid will do the trick and bring it back to life. Taking the whole starter apart is a pretty easy job to do. The bendix is probably the hardest thing to replace but not really that tuff at all and unless you are having problems with it I usually leave it in until it goes bad. A little cleaning and some white lube in places and you are good to go. Brushes are pretty easy to replace also.
If I may ask what kind of problem did you have with your original starter that made you go out and buy something else to replace it? Just curious.
Last edited by ffas23; Oct 28, 2007 at 04:25 PM.
Reason: spelling
Starter on my 67 427 took a dump. Went to the local speed shop, got a hi-performance starter as I have 12.5-1 comp.
When I go to fire the motor and release the key, the motor dies.
The new starter did not have the two small poles ( s & r ) as the chevy starter did, only one small pole. The guy at the speed shop said to hook both wires ( red & purple ) to the one small pole.
Any suggestions?
What's your ignition setup - points? electronic? ballast resistor?
It's been a while since I hooked a mini starter to a stock distributor,
but here's what I remember.
One of the wires coming off the starter is the bypass wire which feeds full voltage to the ignition while the engine is being cranked. This is the one you don't have a connection for. You can connect that wire to the new starter but you have to put a diode in the wire to keep the ignition from feeding power to the starter after the engine starts and you release the key.
I think if you search on "mini starter bypass" or something similar you'll find it's been discussed. Try the C3 tech section - more guys do mods there.
Steve is right on the money. I had to do the diode thing to my 66 BB when I put on a hi-torque mini starter that only had the S terminal on the solenoid. I could not locate one locally that had both the S and R terminals. I got the wiring answer by doing a search here, and the dicussion gives an excellent fix that is very easy to do.
The stock HD OEM starter if in like new or re-newed condition will start anything. If it dont, then the problem is somewhere else because all you really need is a quality re- built.
The stock HD OEM starter if in like new or re-newed condition will start anything. If it dont, then the problem is somewhere else because all you really need is a quality re- built.
I've been using generic reman starters on 'Old Blue' forever. They typically last ten to fifteen years. No trouble cranking over a 427 with 180 psi cranking pressure (not a long duration cam).
Why you need an aftermarket, heavy duty, wizzbang starter is a mystery to me. Excess heat from headers excepted, and then you only need a heat shield.
I got a GM late model Corvette mini starter for my car as it is a lot easier for this feeble old man to muscle around and it takes up a lot less room, making it easier to get in and out around the header.
I wouldn't argue against a mini-starter.
They weigh a lot less and draw less current.
I have one and a smaller battery in my '67
and it's pretty cheap weight loss up front.
You guys are the best, thank you for all the comments.
I went through the process of elimination and found that the purple wire hooked up to the pole with the small red one un-hooked and it fired-up and stayed running.
I do have an MSD box with a GM distributor. I am not sure why I have had issues with standard starters but the small one really spins the motor.
Nothing like a running, good thumping big block to get all of the blood in the right places.
From: Putnam Valley, New York. Amateur Radio Operator K2NS
Originally Posted by vette-a-long
I went through the process of elimination and found that the purple wire hooked up to the pole with the small red one un-hooked and it fired-up and stayed running.
What happened is when the solenoid disengaged, the current flowing through the pink bypass wire changes direction and goes back into the solenoid. The low resistance of the solenoid primary winding pulled the coil voltage down to a point where the ignition system was unable to make a spark. As mentioned in a post above, the cure is to put a diode in series with that wire. The diode allows current to flow only in 1 direction (up the wire from the starter to the coil) while blocking flow in the other direction (from the coil back to the starter when the solenoid disengages).