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i have a 67 327 that i cant seem to time right, ive tried timing everywhere from from 12 degrees before top dead center up to 2 and it still doesnt drive quite right. I've read in a couple places that it should be anywhere from 6 to 16. It will always run fine in neutral but as soon as i start to drive it its really rough.
Embarassingly enough I made a newbie move by accidentally putting the button on top of the rubber disc in the distributor...which may have messed something up. That obviously caused it to run terribly, but now since i fixed it, it runs normal sitting but still rough while driven. Before this little incident it did run and drive excellent, and I dont know what the problem could be. Help?
Embarassingly enough I made a newbie move by accidentally putting the button on top of the rubber disc in the distributor...which may have messed something up. That obviously caused it to run terribly, but now since i fixed it, it runs normal sitting but still rough while driven. Before this little incident it did run and drive excellent, and I dont know what the problem could be. Help?
Thanks
You didn't say which 327 it is (300hp or 350hp), but a good baseline initial timing setting is 8* for the 300hp and 10*-12* for the 350hp (this is done with the vacuum advance disconnected and plugged).
Don't understand "putting the button on top of the rubber disc in the distributor"...can you elaborate?
I would check your wires. It sounds like you might have crossed 2. I had the same problem once and it turned out that I accidently crossed the 5 and 7. Just a thought.
The button that connects the coil to the rotar. Since it was on top of the rubber disc on the cap, it arced a spark which could have jumped everywhere instead of having the electricity pass directly from the coil to the rotar.
From: Putnam Valley, New York. Amateur Radio Operator K2NS
??????
Originally Posted by notdanevans
The button that connects the coil to the rotar. Since it was on top of the rubber disc on the cap, it arced a spark which could have jumped everywhere instead of having the electricity pass directly from the coil to the rotar.
From: Putnam Valley, New York. Amateur Radio Operator K2NS
????
Originally Posted by notdanevans
The button that connects the coil to the rotar. Since it was on top of the rubber disc on the cap, it arced a spark which could have jumped everywhere instead of having the electricity pass directly from the coil to the rotar.
Thanks for the help though.
I just figured it out---The engine has an HEI distributor in it. He's talking about the carbon button and rubber washer under the ignition coil.