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Tips on replacing strut rods

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Old Nov 12, 2007 | 06:50 PM
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From: Calhoun, GA_______ Let It Rock
Default Tips on replacing strut rods

The bushings on the strut rods of my '65 looked shot. So while ordering the new f/e stuff I ordered two new strut rods. Any tips/tricks or instructions on replacing the strut rods ? Any other "small" jobs I should do while there...?

Thanks.
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Old Nov 12, 2007 | 07:04 PM
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The biggest part of the job is getting the old ones off.

Mine have been on there so long it's like the nuts that hold them on are welded.
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Old Nov 12, 2007 | 07:52 PM
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You might need an oxy/acetylene torch to heat up the parts enough to get the shock mounts out.

Get a 3/8" NPT pipe cap at the hardware store to use to drive the shock mounts out (yes, the pipe and bolt threads match, I don't know why).

Do a search in the C3 forums for more information on strut rod removal - just about anything to do with the job has been discussed there several times.
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Old Nov 12, 2007 | 10:27 PM
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Yes, absolutely I have tips......take them back and get heim-jointed adjustable strut rods (unless your car is NCRS). The cams turn in the bushing when you "abuse" the car by driving it like it is supposed to be driven (road or drag racing), so you eventually end up at full negative rear camber. The heim jointed ones won't. Just set it and forget it.
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Old Nov 13, 2007 | 09:24 AM
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You may find it easier to remove the old strut rods from (and attach the new to) the camber bracket if the camber bracket is loose from the differential housing.
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Old Nov 13, 2007 | 12:27 PM
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It's easier to align things if you jack under the trailing arm and get it up to its normal ride height; if it's "hanging", you'll never get the shock mount shafts through the spindle support ears and the bushing on the strut rod.
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Old Nov 25, 2007 | 07:14 PM
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Do the rear spring bolts (ride height) have to be removed ? Or can I remove the shock mount and strut rod with the spring still bolted to the t-arms ?

I am leery of unbolting the rear spring after fighting with the front coil springs If I have to unbolt the spring...just place a c-clamp about 12" in and place a piece of 2x4 on the jack, right ? Also position the 2x4 right up against the c-clamp ?
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Old Nov 25, 2007 | 08:04 PM
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Originally Posted by JohnZ
It's easier to align things if you jack under the trailing arm and get it up to its normal ride height; if it's "hanging", you'll never get the shock mount shafts through the spindle support ears and the bushing on the strut rod.
that would be my one big recommendation, judicious use of the jack (floor jack) to unload the tension on the rod

as for your question - Do the rear spring bolts (ride height) have to be removed? - answer no, if you use the floor jack as John mentioned
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Old Nov 26, 2007 | 11:49 AM
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Did I read somewhere that the C-3 strut rod bracket made for a better alingment thru the full travel arc.
If so I would look at ordering the whole set up from VBP with better bushings that do not flex as much as rubber,
Heim would be the best but that would be a high maintaince item and may be a bit noisey, my $.05 worth.
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Old Dec 10, 2007 | 02:23 PM
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Originally Posted by JohnZ
It's easier to align things if you jack under the trailing arm and get it up to its normal ride height; if it's "hanging", you'll never get the shock mount shafts through the spindle support ears and the bushing on the strut rod.
If just replacing the strut rods, why not leave the car/wheels on the ground and then remove the old strut rod and install the new one?
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Old Dec 10, 2007 | 03:01 PM
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Originally Posted by Kensmith
If just replacing the strut rods, why not leave the car/wheels on the ground and then remove the old strut rod and install the new one?
My guess is that JohnZ assumes you have already disconnected the spring from the TA, and probably that you also have the wheel off. When the car is sitting normally on the ground, the only thing keeping the wheel vertical is the strut rod. Remove it (if you could) and expect a BIG camber change. Not to mention problems with access to the shock mount shafts.
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Old Dec 10, 2007 | 03:18 PM
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Originally Posted by 66since71
My guess is that JohnZ assumes you have already disconnected the spring from the TA, and probably that you also have the wheel off. When the car is sitting normally on the ground, the only thing keeping the wheel vertical is the strut rod. Remove it (if you could) and expect a BIG camber change. Not to mention problems with access to the shock mount shafts.
Ok, I have not looked. Didn't know there was that much involved. Better look under there and see. Could be a bigger project than I thought. I plan on replacing the spring bolts with longer ones to lower the rear a little so will do the struts at the same time. I know how to do that since I have had the spring out before. I have the shop manual so I will check it. Thanks
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Old Dec 10, 2007 | 04:20 PM
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From: DFW
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Originally Posted by Kensmith
Ok, I have not looked. Didn't know there was that much involved. Better look under there and see. Could be a bigger project than I thought. I plan on replacing the spring bolts with longer ones to lower the rear a little so will do the struts at the same time. I know how to do that since I have had the spring out before. I have the shop manual so I will check it. Thanks

Ken, If you are going to do the spring job, its an ideal time to get the strut rods. The hardest part will be driving the lower shock mount out. Get a tool from any one of the Corvette suppliers, and use the tips in this thread, and the swap will go fast!

Harry
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Old Dec 10, 2007 | 09:41 PM
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From: Calhoun, GA_______ Let It Rock
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Ken - Did you decide on original style or heim jointed struts ? Rockauto has the original style on sale at $38.89 each.
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Old Dec 11, 2007 | 10:21 AM
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Originally Posted by Grey Ghost
Ken - Did you decide on original style or heim jointed struts ? Rockauto has the original style on sale at $38.89 each.
I purchased the adjustable heim joint style. $109.00 plus $16.00 shipping.
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