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1966 Bigblock

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Old Nov 13, 2007 | 09:29 PM
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Default 1966 Bigblock

I have to replace the clutch in my 427 corvette and I'm wondering what advice I can get on this. I figure there has to be a best way to accomplish with the least amount of pain. I have a lift and will be using a new centerforce clutch, pressure plate and throwout bearing. Thanks
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Old Nov 14, 2007 | 11:45 AM
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Section 7 in the Chevrolet Chassis Service Manual has the step-by-step procedure for transmission and clutch R&R. Have the flywheel resurfaced, replace the pilot bushing, and make sure the throwout bearing is assembled correctly to the clutch fork.



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Old Nov 14, 2007 | 04:33 PM
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Check out this thread: "Clutch doesn't disengage fully"

I have the same car and put in a Centerforce clutch. I ended up needing an adjustable ball stud in order to get the proper throw out distance.
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Old Nov 14, 2007 | 06:10 PM
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Why not just use GM parts? That what i did with my 427 and everything worked great
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Old Nov 14, 2007 | 06:59 PM
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Originally Posted by 66thumper
I have to replace the clutch in my 427 corvette and I'm wondering what advice I can get on this. I figure there has to be a best way to accomplish with the least amount of pain. I have a lift and will be using a new centerforce clutch, pressure plate and throwout bearing. Thanks
Replace anything you can while in there that has any sign of the least wear, including the pilot shaft bushing, clutch arm, ball stud and the transmission front bearing retainer if it has any wear on it. Also have your pressure plate ground by a top quality machine shop and check it for runout on the motor when you get it back. Check the core plugs and oil gallery plugs in the back of the block for any sign of leaking. Clean up and lube the shifter mechanism and replace any shift rod bushing. Change the lube in the transmission if you haven't since you have had the car. If your transmission has been seeping any lube around the front countershaft hole but is otherwise in good condition, degrease it good and put some sealer around the area of the countershaft just prior to sliding the transmission into the clutch housing for good. It's no fun having to go back into one of these again to replace something you didn't the first time. Good luck.

Dan

Last edited by DansYellow66; Nov 14, 2007 at 07:01 PM.
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Old Nov 14, 2007 | 07:48 PM
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Originally Posted by 70GHH
Check out this thread: "Clutch doesn't disengage fully"

I have the same car and put in a Centerforce clutch. I ended up needing an adjustable ball stud in order to get the proper throw out distance.


I have two Centerforce clutches - a DF and a II.
I've seen a lot of complaints about Centerforce but I've been fine.
I followed their instructions pretty closely (orange sheet IIRC?).
I needed an adjustable ball stud on the DF (also has a Lakewood
housing) but the stock ball stud was fine on the II with a 403
housing and new GM nodular iron flywheel.
I also broke them in nicely for 500 miles (stop and go) as they
recommend.

I also used pilot bearings which most people seem to hate
After reading here for years I wouldn't use one again...
I did index the bellhousing on both clutches.
The '66 427 block I have in my '67 was about .017 off
with two different 403 bellhousings...
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