Anyone have suggestions for removing and installing the upper inner control arm shafts? These are original and very corroded. I was able to remove one by double nutting and using an impact wrench. The new shaft (from CC) would not turn in to full depth as recommended in the service manual. It seems to hang up at 1". The other shaft would not budge. Is OK to use some "heat"? Thanks

Pooch

 

NOPE!
Get an ST-12 and it will provide the instructions for installation.

 

I have the ST-12. However I can't find anyone with the J-2958 tool the manual refers to. Thanks

 

Are you replacing all the other shafts/bushings (upper/lower/inner/outer)? If so, you already have the tool.

 

Thanks again. I attempted to use the old bushings to seat the shaft. I'm either getting too old and weak, or I need a bigger wrench. Thanks again.
Pooch

 

My upper inner cross shafts needed about 400 ft-lb torque to screw in, or more simply put, a 4 foot breaker bar with 100 pounds force on the end.

You are moving metal installing new cross shafts.

Doug

 

I actually got my upper control arm shaft stuck while installing it, also. I couldn't get it to go in or out. I'm pretty sure I had a burr in the thread. I initially made up double nuts from the old bushings but they were soft and split easily when I put the beans to them. I finally "double nuted" both ends of the shaft and turned the shaft in with two wrenches at the same time. I also heated the cross member area around the thread with a propane torch. Not sure if one or both helped but I got the shaft to turn past the rough spot. Since then I found a J-2958 tool on ebay.

 

I can't count how many times I've provided information, as well as pictures, about how to rebuild these frontends here. I was truly hoping that someone else would jump in and provide you with some information. Too bad no one else would help out. Oh well--------------

If the old shaft is not going to be retained, is is quite easy to remove it with a large pipe wrench. Put the pipe wrench on the FORWARD end of the shaft and unscrew it from the FRONT of the spring tower.

The REPLACEMENT upper-inner shaft has OVERSIZE threads where it screws into the spring tower. IT IS SUPPOSED TO FIT SO TIGHT THAT IT IS EXTREMELY DIFFICULT TO SCREW IN!!!!!!!
Its nice to have the correct tool, BUUUUUUUUUUUT, if a person is doing a rebuild of the whole frontend, then the LOWER-OUTER bushing/shaft can be used as installation tool. If the removed lower-outer bushing/shaft is still in fairly decent shape, it makes a perfect installation tool. Otherwise, one of the new lower-outer bushing/shaft can be used as an installation tool. But if the old ones are too worn, then a new lower-outer bushing/shaft can be used to install the new upper-inner shaft. I highly recommend only using each of the 2 new ones on just one upper-inner shaft. That way, excess strain is not put on the threads of just one new lower-outer bushing/shaft 2 times.

The upper-inner shafts threads, which screw into the spring tower, have smaller threads on one end than on the other end (I hope you discovered that). The smaller threads go in FIRST (from the front). After inserting the new shaft into the spring tower, screw a lower-outer bushing onto the end of the shaft. Then screw a lower-outer shaft into the bushing until it makes contact with the end of the upper-inner shaft. USE TWO BIG WRENCHES TO VERY TIGHTLY LOCK THE BUSHING-SHAFT ONTO THE NEW UPPER-INNER SHAFT! It is preferable to use boxed end wrenches, and even better if they are 6-point boxed end wrenches.
As the new shaft is screwed into the spring tower, it may be necessary to also place some pressure against the end of the shaft to get the threads started in the hole. Remember, new shafts have oversize threads. Most lilely you will need to put a length of pipe over the end of the wrench to provide enough torque to get the shaft to start screwing into the hole. Once you get the shaft to begin screwing into the spring tower, it is important to periodically measure each end of the new shaft to assure EQUAL LENGTHS OF THREADS protrude from each end of the tower.
If you need more info, let me know. I've been rebuilding these frontends for over 40yrs (same frontend as 49-54 passenger cars). If you need to email me at home, that's fine tparsons6@***.net

 

Thanks. I've never had this experience. It seemed like something was wrong. I didn't want to worsen the proceedure.

 

This is what the Kent Moore tool looks like!

 

Thanks for all the insights! Installation completed successfully! Special thanks to DZAuto. Next - Anyone know how to???

Pooch