It Runs!
Had a little problem with the air cleaner and MAF that I selected not fitting, and had a problem with the throttle pedal not communicating with the ECM. Street and Performance built me a new air inlet and MAF, and shipped it out very quick. Troubleshooting the throttle pedal turned out to be just a bad connection at the plug-in connector, I must have not had it snapped in tightly. My brand-new Optima red-top battery was DOA and would not take a charge, but the guys at SAM's replaced it with no problem. The car started right up after about the third rotation, but idled like crap for about 10 minutes while the ECM got everything dialed in. The engine now idles at about 500 rpm, and you can't even feel it running.
The mufflers that Stainless works built for me are much quieter than the ones they built for the 59, and I am real satisfied with them. I love the 59 but it draws the attention of everyone within a 2 block radius when you step on it, including the boys in blue!
I drove it around the block while sitting on top of a stack of lawn chair cushions. I do not want to install the seats or door panels until the top is on and I am finished with the car, as the white leather is very unforgiving of greasy hands! I did not really get on it, but it feels really strong. It still has to go to the alignment shp in the next week or so.
The last of the bumpers finally arrived this week from the chrome shop, and I got them on.
I am still waiting for Knoch to get my top made. I am told that getting the Harrtz StayFast material is the problem, but if it does not get here soon, I may have to look for other alternatives. I would rather get a top from Knoch than anyone else, but I am sure getting tired of waiting.
Here are some pics of the engine compartment, sorry about the focus, my POS auto focus camera seems to have a mind of it's own. I can't wait to get a SLR digital camera that I can control the focus of!
http://www.villagephotos.com/pubbrow...der_id=1950117
Regards, John McGraw
Let's see some pic's of the 59. i am guessing you ahve a LSX in it aloso hope mine looks as good as yours. I hope to to have mine finished by July 08.
I have a few more questions if you don't mind?
1) What type wheels are U using
2) Where did U buy the wilwood M/C?
3) How did you come up with the transmission linkage?
4) R U going to Kissimmee? If so, where will U be?
5) What degree is your drive shaft ? My rear end (96) seems to higher than the transmission. A lot more than 3 degrees.
6) Where is the best place to buy the Autometers and have them ready to install with the LSX?
7) Did U use the painless wiring? Any suggestions?
8) Did U get the serpitine system from Street and Performance? If not. any suggestions.
8)Did U have to buy a different transmission tail section to get your speeo to work? If noit, how is the speedo woring and tach?
10) Do U have a internal or external gas pump. I bought a new tank and now I am wondering if I should have bought one with an internal pump.
Thanks George

Last edited by splidecision63; Dec 29, 2007 at 08:44 PM.
Happy New Year
Earl
The Best of Corvette for Corvette Enthusiasts
Getting a little personal with John???

Beautiful Work John!
Last edited by SPLITRAY; Dec 29, 2007 at 11:44 PM.
Noticed you used the Hyd power brake. If you had used stock vac booster and master cylinder do you think there would have been a interference problem with it and engine?
Also do you think there is a way to duct the breather out of the engine compartment where it can breath in cooler air?
Think you know I admire you work too. You might want to tell everyone about the dash panel you made.
Let's see some pic's of the 59. i am guessing you ahve a LSX in it aloso hope mine looks as good as yours. I hope to to have mine finished by July 08.
I have a few more questions if you don't mind?
1) What type wheels are U using
2) Where did U buy the wilwood M/C?
3) How did you come up with the transmission linkage?
4) R U going to Kissimmee? If so, where will U be?
5) What degree is your drive shaft ? My rear end (96) seems to higher than the transmission. A lot more than 3 degrees.
6) Where is the best place to buy the Autometers and have them ready to install with the LSX?
7) Did U use the painless wiring? Any suggestions?
8) Did U get the serpitine system from Street and Performance? If not. any suggestions.
8)Did U have to buy a different transmission tail section to get your speeo to work? If noit, how is the speedo woring and tach?
10) Do U have a internal or external gas pump. I bought a new tank and now I am wondering if I should have bought one with an internal pump.
Thanks George


1. The wheels are chrome ZO6 clone wheels in 8" width. There are lots of places on the web selling them.
2. I bought the wilwood MC at a place called RaceMart. I found them on the web, and they had about the best price on them I could find. The Hydraboost setup behind it came from Hydratech. The stopping power of this setup is incredible, and will take some getting use to !
3. I used one of Shiftworks conversion kits to convert the original PG shifter into a shifter that controls the 4L65E trans. Every part you need is included including the new panel for the console with the proper shift pattern. If you look at the pic of the dash, you will see the Dakota Digital display that indicates gear position, has high beam indicator, has both R and L turnsignal indicators, and has a extra light that I used for the check engine light from the computer. It also supplies the neutral safety switch that keeps the car from starting in any gear but neut or park.
4. I was going to Fla, but I finally back to work as of last week, so I can't go. The job is only as a consultant right now, but hope it turns into a permanent gig.
5. The driveshaft angle on mine is pretty flat, probably pushing the minimum 3 degree angle. I had to move my trans mount down a little to get some additional tunnell clearance. I would not worry about the angle as long as it is equal at both ends, and is at least 2 degrees. If you get too flat, the neddles will not rotate enough and the u-joints will fail.
6. I bought my gauges from Summitt. It is pretty hard to beat their prices on Autometer.
7. I used Ron Francis for my wiring harness. I really like their stuff, but Painless is good too. The engine harness and ECM programing is from John Spears at Speartech fuel injection. The toughest part is finding a place for the fuse block! I ended up mounting it horizontal at the Z bar right behind the headlight switch. There is not enough room at the original location for a fuse block with this many circuits. Unfotrunately, the A/C duct covers almost all the fuses, and has to be dropped to change a fuse, but how often do you need to do that? I also mounted all my engine harness fuses in a block right behind the clock, also attached to the Z bar.
8. Yes, that is a S&P setup, but it is one they do not push. They really like to sell the High/wide setup. I like the close-in alternator and the A/C compressor almost hidden from view under the engine. This setup will require you to flip the throttle body so the motor is on the driver's side, to clear the alternator. This will aslo require you to use an elbow like mine for the air inlet rather than the compact unit like you see in the pics of my 59. You will see their wide/high setup on my 59, and I like this drive setup a lot more.
9. Nope, I used the original tailshaft with the VSS in it. I fed the VSS to the computer just like stock, and used the output from the computer to give a signal to both the tach and speedo. This is the way to go if you are using a late model trans.
10. I learned my lesson years ago, and only buy tanks with internal pumps in them now. The Rock Valley tank is all stainless, has internal pump and a spiral baffle sump to keep the pump in gas all the time. The internal pump is a Walbro 255 pump. External pumps are generally noiser and do not life as long.
Here is a link to my pic albums with lots of pics of both my 59 and 65 project. http://www.villagephotos.com/pubgallery.asp?id_=339303
Regards, John McGraw
Last edited by John McGraw; Dec 30, 2007 at 12:25 AM.
Noticed you used the Hyd power brake. If you had used stock vac booster and master cylinder do you think there would have been a interference problem with it and engine?
Also do you think there is a way to duct the breather out of the engine compartment where it can breath in cooler air?
Think you know I admire you work too. You might want to tell everyone about the dash panel you made.
I don't think that there is any way that a stock booster can would have cleared. I would have had to go to one of the small diameter, dual diaphram boosters. I used one of these dual boosters on my 59 and while it works OK, it takes a pretty good pedal pressure. The hrdroboost setup will throw you through the windshield if you ain't strapped in! It is going to take a little getting used to. You stop the 65 with your toe, you stop the 59 with your whole foot!
If I had not used such a god-awful big radiator, I probably could have run the intake tube through the rad support and had the air filter in front of the rad support. With the power steering, bumper brackets, and sway bar, there was no way to route it out the bottom. This engine makes way more power than you will ever be able to put to the ground, so the point is probably moot!
The car having enough cooling won out over the air intake. This is probably way more radiator than the car will ever need, but it is going to be long distance driver, and I don't want it to overheat in the Arizona desert with the A/C on.Regards, John McGraw




Looks super as usual and I bet it sounds great.
Nice to see that I'm not the only crazy one using temporary seating. I used an old milk crate once but I fell off the back....... not the best ride......
Rich












Sweet!!!!!

Your workmanship is the best, keep us posted on your finishing things up.




