'61 Generator Driven Tach
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Army
'61 Generator Driven Tach
I replaced my tach cable and the steel (small) gear inside the generator drive unit. Tach worked perfect for a while but now doesn't go below about 1200 RPM (even with motor off) but works above that when I rev it. The only two things left that haven't been replaced are the tach itself and the nylon (large) drive gear.
I have a new one but didn't replace it because I couldn't get the old one off its spindle even after removing the left-hand threaded nut. Is this a press fit or is there something I don't know ?
I have a new one but didn't replace it because I couldn't get the old one off its spindle even after removing the left-hand threaded nut. Is this a press fit or is there something I don't know ?
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From: Camp Verde AZ
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I will guarantee you that the gear is NOT the problem.
Pulling the instrument cluster isn't that big of a deal, just tag all the gauge wire with tags prior to undoing them. Geta pillow for your head, don't attempt with a hangover.
Doug
Pulling the instrument cluster isn't that big of a deal, just tag all the gauge wire with tags prior to undoing them. Geta pillow for your head, don't attempt with a hangover.
Doug
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From: Camp Verde AZ
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2017 C1 of Year Finalist
BTW, get your speedo rebuilt at the same time. Sure as the sun rises in the east, your speedo will go out within a few months of having the tach rebuilt if you don't.
You don't have to ask me how I know this.
Doug
You don't have to ask me how I know this.
Doug
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From: Camp Verde AZ
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Might be a good time to look at your under dash wiring harness and replace it also if needed, since you have all the cluster conenctions unhooked. New instruments bulbs, too.
Doug
Doug
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From: Conroe Texas
Thank you to AZDoug for demonstrating how easily simple projects can turn into full-blown restorations 
No harm intended AZDoug, just noting 3 posts in a row that grew in scope.
You are right though - if I'm pulling my instrument cluster out, I'm restoring my dash area.
No harm intended AZDoug, just noting 3 posts in a row that grew in scope.
You are right though - if I'm pulling my instrument cluster out, I'm restoring my dash area.
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From: Conroe Texas
Chassis - hey this would be an ideal reason to go with an SRIII chassis with a modern drive train...
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Army
You know, if you are going to paint the car, now's a great time to send all the chrome and stainless out. In fact, you might as well pull the body so the painters can clean the underside and you can do the chassis.
Chassis - hey this would be an ideal reason to go with an SRIII chassis with a modern drive train...
Chassis - hey this would be an ideal reason to go with an SRIII chassis with a modern drive train...
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From: Conroe Texas
Only if you have time.
But seriously, don't let the tach problem get you down. I know how it feels to have a new car with a ton of projects, many of them you didn't expect. But a year down the road you'll have forgotten about all of the hassle, and instead will have even more pride of ownership because of the time you've invested into improving it.
But seriously, don't let the tach problem get you down. I know how it feels to have a new car with a ton of projects, many of them you didn't expect. But a year down the road you'll have forgotten about all of the hassle, and instead will have even more pride of ownership because of the time you've invested into improving it.
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Army
Well - thanks for all of the encouragement folks; but believe me -- after 5 months of wrestling with this car: mystery cam, fouled plugs, distributor problems, burst radiator hose, bad voltage regulator, running out of oil and carb fires, its all coming together.
I drove it for 2 hours today around town and it is running superbly....at this point a 'sticky' tach is just a nuisance.....but a nuisance nonetheless.
I drove it for 2 hours today around town and it is running superbly....at this point a 'sticky' tach is just a nuisance.....but a nuisance nonetheless.
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LOL hang in there....I have only owned mine since december. I have already had to rebuild the generator, replace the battery, put in a new tstat and now my heater core and heater control valve. Im thinking god I love this car when its in my garage and not in someone elses getting fixed But they sure are fun to drive!
But they sure are fun to drive!
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LOL hang in there....I have only owned mine since december. I have already had to rebuild the generator, replace the battery, put in a new tstat and now my heater core and heater control valve. Im thinking god I love this car when its in my garage and not in someone elses getting fixed But they sure are fun to drive!
But they sure are fun to drive!Doug
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but I didn't want to pile too much stuff on at once.
Doug
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And, since you have to pull the steering wheel to remove the cluster, don't forget to replace the turn signal switch and lube up the cancelling mechanism.
Deburr the square hole the signal switch wires escape the steering colume from, use a dremel or fine file, the wires will pull easier.
Doug
Deburr the square hole the signal switch wires escape the steering colume from, use a dremel or fine file, the wires will pull easier.
Doug
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Army
Well I looked at the ST-12 and its just removing some wires and a few screws to get the cluster out. I bet I can take it out and R&R the tachometer at night and all those other components waiting to fail will still be asleep and won't even know what happened.
P.S. Not interested in the Prez job - I retired as a Federal senior exec out of Wash DC (known as the breakfast club - fruits, flakes and nuts) and couldn't put it behind me fast enuf.
P.S. Not interested in the Prez job - I retired as a Federal senior exec out of Wash DC (known as the breakfast club - fruits, flakes and nuts) and couldn't put it behind me fast enuf.
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From: Conroe Texas
I remember the instructions were something like:
1) Disconnect battery
2) Disconnect all wires
3) Remove cluster screws
4) Remove cluster
Sure, that's all, just disconnect all the wires, it's only 1 of 4 steps, how hard can it be?
Well those wires are not plugged into the instruments like on later model cars. Oh no, each wire terminal slips over a stud, and then a little tiny nut that you can't turn very much, threads onto the stud to hold the wire in place.
The second time I removed my cluster it was a breeze because I had the right tools.
Just make sure you've got a set of small wrenches or sockets for accessing those nuts.