Battery Isolation Switch
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From: Niagara
Battery Isolation Switch
The last time I was over at the Pro Team the only thing that intreasted me was, each time they wanted to start one of there car they had to turn this battery isolaton switch. It seem to just attach to the battery and them to the cable. This looks like a good idea since these cars are 50 old. Any one ever seen these around?
Instructor
Joined: Dec 2005
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Are you referring to the type that attaches directly to the battery post? If so, they are quite readily available. They may not be as good as a permanently installed shut off switch, but they are cheap and effective as a battery disconnect.
I see that you are in Canada. Do you have a Princess Auto near you? They sometimes put them on sale for about two dollars. They are brass colored with green removable *****. If you don't have a store near you, Princess Auto also has a mail order service.
I see that you are in Canada. Do you have a Princess Auto near you? They sometimes put them on sale for about two dollars. They are brass colored with green removable *****. If you don't have a store near you, Princess Auto also has a mail order service.
Pro
Joined: Jun 2006
Posts: 722
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From: S.F. ( E. Bay) Calif.
I recently installed a Battery Brain Type 3 that I purchased from an Ebay vendor-(http://stores.ebay.com/Mantelli-Trailer-Sales-RV-Store). It automatically disconnects your battery if it senses a voltage drain when the car is idle, or you can use the remote fob to disconnect and reconnect the battery as a security device. The install wasn't difficult, just deciding where it will fit the best for you. When I read the enclosed literature, before installing, I think it is best not to mount close to the header/heat source. The unit doesn't make a significant sound when you disconnect by remote and you don't have to open the hood, so it is an unobtrusive theft deterrent, unlike having to raise the hood to manually disconnect some devices. And it's not expensive, IMHO, either.
Pro
Joined: Apr 2006
Posts: 628
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From: Charlotte area NC
I use the battery brain as well, easy to install and I use it for security as well. The remote fob is great, much better than popping the hood and using the green **** in a hot engine bay. Good Luck ! 
Safety Car
Joined: Feb 2000
Posts: 4,977
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From: Massachusetts , USA,
I have a battery isolation switch under the dash of my 1966 Corvette , entirely shuts off all power......................a simple device & is tied into a solinoid that i have on my fire wall if you want photos send me your email..................
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From: Niagara
thanks for the ideas. I'll look into the brain drain. I was looking more so for a total battery disconnect. No sure if anyone has had problems but since the car is stored in the garage attache to my house. You never know about any weird electrical short.
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Bud2
Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 1,237
Likes: 4
From: Warrnambool Victoria
How 'bout a key switch?
On my 64, I installed a key switch. The ones that use a big red removeable plastic key. I installed it on the drivers' side radio panel, just beside the e-brake. Can't be seen especially if the key is removed and it's effective. No more lifting the hood to disconnect.
Bud.
Bud.
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From: Crush your enemies, see them driven before you, and hear the lamentations of the women TX
So.... can't find a manual for the battery brain and I have questions.
If you just shut off the car and get out, do you have to arm the module to make it work? Hitting the remote disconnect kills all drain immediately but does the thing run without any intervention monitoring voltage?
Can you arm the module and just drive? Get out of the car in the parking lot and let it do it's thing all on it's own?
I'm not all that confident that it'll fit on the battery in this C3 anyway.....
If you just shut off the car and get out, do you have to arm the module to make it work? Hitting the remote disconnect kills all drain immediately but does the thing run without any intervention monitoring voltage?
Can you arm the module and just drive? Get out of the car in the parking lot and let it do it's thing all on it's own?
I'm not all that confident that it'll fit on the battery in this C3 anyway.....
Le Mans Master
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 9,016
Likes: 331
From: Southeast Missouri
So.... can't find a manual for the battery brain and I have questions.
If you just shut off the car and get out, do you have to arm the module to make it work? Hitting the remote disconnect kills all drain immediately but does the thing run without any intervention monitoring voltage?
Can you arm the module and just drive? Get out of the car in the parking lot and let it do it's thing all on it's own?
I'm not all that confident that it'll fit on the battery in this C3 anyway.....
If you just shut off the car and get out, do you have to arm the module to make it work? Hitting the remote disconnect kills all drain immediately but does the thing run without any intervention monitoring voltage?
Can you arm the module and just drive? Get out of the car in the parking lot and let it do it's thing all on it's own?
I'm not all that confident that it'll fit on the battery in this C3 anyway.....
The only thing it's supposed to do "on it's own" is that if battery voltage falls to a predetermined level, the unit is supposed to disconnect the battery from the circuit, leaving sufficient charge in the battery to re-start the vehicle. Don't know if that works as advertised or not, haven't had the need to check it out yet.
The unit comes with connectors and instructions for both top post and side post terminals, should be no reason it won't work on a C-3.
Hope this helps, mine works fine, I recommend it. Convenient, as has already been said.
Ron
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From: Crush your enemies, see them driven before you, and hear the lamentations of the women TX
With the remote control unit, just hit the remote button to disconnect the battery from the circuit. Works the same way in reverse to reconnect the battery to the circuit, just hit the remote button. (From a distance, could even be used to kill headlamps if you left them on, just hit the remote button).
The only thing it's supposed to do "on it's own" is that if battery voltage falls to a predetermined level, the unit is supposed to disconnect the battery from the circuit, leaving sufficient charge in the battery to re-start the vehicle. Don't know if that works as advertised or not, haven't had the need to check it out yet.
The unit comes with connectors and instructions for both top post and side post terminals, should be no reason it won't work on a C-3.
Hope this helps, mine works fine, I recommend it. Convenient, as has already been said.
Ron
The only thing it's supposed to do "on it's own" is that if battery voltage falls to a predetermined level, the unit is supposed to disconnect the battery from the circuit, leaving sufficient charge in the battery to re-start the vehicle. Don't know if that works as advertised or not, haven't had the need to check it out yet.
The unit comes with connectors and instructions for both top post and side post terminals, should be no reason it won't work on a C-3.
Hope this helps, mine works fine, I recommend it. Convenient, as has already been said.
RonI had one of those crappy **** battery cut offs. Hated it. The device oxidized, wouldn't clamp down very well, etc. Pulled it off yesterday and now I'm waiting to see if there an the same starting problems as before. If not, it stays off. If so, it still stays off and I get a new battery
Le Mans Master
Joined: Apr 2006
Posts: 5,347
Likes: 36
From: San Clemente CA
With the remote control unit, just hit the remote button to disconnect the battery from the circuit. Works the same way in reverse to reconnect the battery to the circuit, just hit the remote button. (From a distance, could even be used to kill headlamps if you left them on, just hit the remote button).
The only thing it's supposed to do "on it's own" is that if battery voltage falls to a predetermined level, the unit is supposed to disconnect the battery from the circuit, leaving sufficient charge in the battery to re-start the vehicle. Don't know if that works as advertised or not, haven't had the need to check it out yet.
The unit comes with connectors and instructions for both top post and side post terminals, should be no reason it won't work on a C-3.
Hope this helps, mine works fine, I recommend it. Convenient, as has already been said.
Ron
The only thing it's supposed to do "on it's own" is that if battery voltage falls to a predetermined level, the unit is supposed to disconnect the battery from the circuit, leaving sufficient charge in the battery to re-start the vehicle. Don't know if that works as advertised or not, haven't had the need to check it out yet.
The unit comes with connectors and instructions for both top post and side post terminals, should be no reason it won't work on a C-3.
Hope this helps, mine works fine, I recommend it. Convenient, as has already been said.
RonIt's hard to tell from the photos in front of its box how big it really is. Where does it sit in your vette?
Don
Le Mans Master
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From: Crush your enemies, see them driven before you, and hear the lamentations of the women TX
Le Mans Master
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 9,016
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From: Southeast Missouri
Hope this helps!!
Ron
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From: Crush your enemies, see them driven before you, and hear the lamentations of the women TX
Found the manual. Here's what I glean;
If it's turned on at all (physical switch on unit) it monitors the voltage and if <11.9V will completely kill all power. If the model has a vibration sensor, it will sleep whilst driving and not do that. (certainly my car has the vibration aspect covered)
Remote;
ARM Car can't be started but all 'puter/clock/etc settings remain. Presumably it trickles a tiny amount of current but prevents more current from passing. I assume that as the manual states it but mentions no provision for bypassing it to keep them alive.
DISCONNECT Kills all power immediately.
DISARM/RECONNECT
That is the PLATINUM manual only. The other versions have differing functions like no remotes and/or no anti-theft (trickling current without allowing starting).
If it's turned on at all (physical switch on unit) it monitors the voltage and if <11.9V will completely kill all power. If the model has a vibration sensor, it will sleep whilst driving and not do that. (certainly my car has the vibration aspect covered
)Remote;
ARM Car can't be started but all 'puter/clock/etc settings remain. Presumably it trickles a tiny amount of current but prevents more current from passing. I assume that as the manual states it but mentions no provision for bypassing it to keep them alive.
DISCONNECT Kills all power immediately.
DISARM/RECONNECT
That is the PLATINUM manual only. The other versions have differing functions like no remotes and/or no anti-theft (trickling current without allowing starting).
Le Mans Master
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 9,016
Likes: 331
From: Southeast Missouri
Found the manual. Here's what I glean;
If it's turned on at all (physical switch on unit) it monitors the voltage and if <11.9V will completely kill all power. If the model has a vibration sensor, it will sleep whilst driving and not do that. (certainly my car has the vibration aspect covered)
Remote;
ARM Car can't be started but all 'puter/clock/etc settings remain. Presumably it trickles a tiny amount of current but prevents more current from passing. I assume that as the manual states it but mentions no provision for bypassing it to keep them alive.
DISCONNECT Kills all power immediately.
DISARM/RECONNECT
That is the PLATINUM manual only. The other versions have differing functions like no remotes and/or no anti-theft (trickling current without allowing starting).
If it's turned on at all (physical switch on unit) it monitors the voltage and if <11.9V will completely kill all power. If the model has a vibration sensor, it will sleep whilst driving and not do that. (certainly my car has the vibration aspect covered
)Remote;
ARM Car can't be started but all 'puter/clock/etc settings remain. Presumably it trickles a tiny amount of current but prevents more current from passing. I assume that as the manual states it but mentions no provision for bypassing it to keep them alive.
DISCONNECT Kills all power immediately.
DISARM/RECONNECT
That is the PLATINUM manual only. The other versions have differing functions like no remotes and/or no anti-theft (trickling current without allowing starting).
Le Mans Master
Joined: Apr 2006
Posts: 5,347
Likes: 36
From: San Clemente CA
These dimensions should be about right, it comes with a 90 degree bracket that allows it to mount beside the battery, makes a 90 degree turn from the top post to the side. That's how I mounted mine on the '66. It'll mount in several positions, and I suppose you could use two cables to mount it in a location remote from the battery if necessary. But, I didn't need to do so, and haven't looked into that.
Hope this helps!!
Ron
Hope this helps!!
Ron
Drifting
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 1,469
Likes: 329
From: Southold New York
Hella makes a good switch with a removable red plastic key. It is available at any decent marine supply store for about $20. My location was through the transmission tunnel cover into the passenger's footwell. Easy to run cables to the battery and engine ground and easy to reach the key from the driver's seat. It is great peace of mind to know that the 47 year old electrical system is completely disconnected when the car is unattended.