When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
I suspected that the windshield had been leaking for some time on my 67 coupe, so I ordered a new seal and had a local glass company remove and replace the windshield. Gave it a water leak test yesterday, and it still leaks at the lower center - dripping down on the wiper transmission arms. It seems that the glass guys today don't know how to set glass in these old cars - are there any tricks that I need to know to make sure this thing is watertight?
From: If I say it's safe to surf this beach ......then it's safe to surf this beach
You might want to try this, Capt Tolley's Creeping Crack Cure. Boater friends told me about it and it absolutely fixed two nagging leaks around the '64s windshield.
It goes on milky white (easy to see) with the consistancy of water, but dries to an invisible clear. I got it at West Marine for around $12.00 for the 2oz. bottle but it goes a long way.
It seems that the glass guys today don't know how to set glass in these old cars
Bob
The rubber gasket is only there to stop the windshield from falling out when you hit the brakes. The factory used two types of sealant on the windshield. It is shown in the Service Manual. If you don't have one, I can post it up for you.
The rubber gasket is only there to stop the windshield from falling out when you hit the brakes. The factory used two types of sealant on the windshield. It is shown in the Service Manual. If you don't have one, I can post it up for you.
@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@
The problem is how do you get the stuff into the areas needed?? I have reset my W/S three times and used sealant the last two times. But when you use the rope to pull the W/S in most or all of the sealant is pulled with it. With the clips in place on the outside you can't get in under the strip with anything that I know of to get the sealant in place. Please explain how to do this if possible.....
The glass shop did it for me by having one fellow slide a thin white plastic glass tool between the glass and the rubber. While he lifted on that tool to create a gap, a second fellow filled the gap with black sealant and they just smoothly slid around the glass together, lifting and filling, then trimed what was visable.
John,
Mine seems to leak around the outside also. That is really where I am getting the most water into the interior of the car. How did they cure that????
Steve
Steve: Go to your local parts house and get a tube of 3M Auto Bedding and Glazing Compound # 08509. It comes in a caulking tube. Remove your windshield trim and fill the gap between the channel rubber seal and the body opening making sure you get it down real good in the bottom. Then lay another two beads next to each other on the rubber seal (where the trim comes in contact). Replace your trim and you should be good to go (this procedure is in the chassis service manual). Hint: It is better to have too much sealer than too little. You can always clean off the excess. I have done this twice on my coupe with no leaks.
Good luck. Roy
Last edited by 67-427ci; Mar 17, 2008 at 07:12 PM.
My cure is that I don't clean it with water. I use a quick detailer.
$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$
Evidently my brain doesn't function as well as some others. Didn't even think of that!!!! But that doesn't stop the rain from pouring in when you are driving or at a show.
Evidently my brain doesn't function as well as some others. Didn't even think of that!!!! But that doesn't stop the rain from pouring in when you are driving or at a show.
Here's the "other" sealant the plant used between the windshield rubber seal and the body opening (16 oz. per car) before installing the stainless moldings; on a hot day in the sun, it would ooze out and required cleanup.
Here's the "other" sealant the plant used between the windshield rubber seal and the body opening (16 oz. per car) before installing the stainless moldings; on a hot day in the sun, it would ooze out and required cleanup.
&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&& &&
Thanks John. It appears that what I would have to do is to find some type of sealant to shoot into the area between the rubber seal and the body line. May try that and see if it still leaks. I have to hope that I don't have a problem with the cowl. Would hate to tear this thing down.
I think I have the windshield sealed - now it's clear that the cowl is leaking also - the sealant that was installed at the factory has hardened and pulled away from the cowl where it joins the firewall. So back to the store to get some body sealer.
I think I have the windshield sealed - now it's clear that the cowl is leaking also - the sealant that was installed at the factory has hardened and pulled away from the cowl where it joins the firewall. So back to the store to get some body sealer.
The story goes on. . .
$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$
How did you find it. A friend of mine had his leaking down the side under the fender. No way to get to it to patch it or is there???