C1 Spring Install
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: May 2007
Posts: 357
Likes: 28
From: Northern AL
C1 Spring Install
Good Morning,
I've searched the forum and haven't found too much referencing C1 spring install.
I was going to follow the service manual method of:
1) placing jack stands on frame rail
2) Place jack on lower, inner control arm pivot shaft
3) Remove bolts connecting pivot shaft to subframe (probably the hardest part of the job)
4) Slowly lower the control arm decompressing the spring
I don't see where it is possible to insert any spring compressors due to the design of the crossmember assembly
A couple of quick questions:
1) Any safety or process recommendations that are not outlined in the service manual?
2) My shocks are fine but service manual says to replace shocks. Is this necessary?
3) The service manual identifies the pivot bolts should be torqued between 100 and 200 lbs. That is a pretty large variance; anyone have something more specific?
Thanks,
Jim
I've searched the forum and haven't found too much referencing C1 spring install.
I was going to follow the service manual method of:
1) placing jack stands on frame rail
2) Place jack on lower, inner control arm pivot shaft
3) Remove bolts connecting pivot shaft to subframe (probably the hardest part of the job)
4) Slowly lower the control arm decompressing the spring
I don't see where it is possible to insert any spring compressors due to the design of the crossmember assembly
A couple of quick questions:
1) Any safety or process recommendations that are not outlined in the service manual?
2) My shocks are fine but service manual says to replace shocks. Is this necessary?
3) The service manual identifies the pivot bolts should be torqued between 100 and 200 lbs. That is a pretty large variance; anyone have something more specific?
Thanks,
Jim
Last edited by 62RDSTR; Mar 16, 2008 at 09:25 AM. Reason: Forgot to add a specific question
Race Director
Joined: Jun 2006
Posts: 17,901
Likes: 751
From: Inverness FL
St. Jude Donor '07
that actually works very well...
as to safety, you might want to tie a loop of something between a spring coil and the spindle support (just in case); but i doubt you will have any problems...
Bill
as to safety, you might want to tie a loop of something between a spring coil and the spindle support (just in case); but i doubt you will have any problems...
Bill
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From: Mustang OK
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I've posted this many times, I guess you have missed it.
ALL you need is to buy a 3ft length of 1/2in all thread, two washers and 2 nuts (I also add 2 nuts on one end of the all thread, locked together, to hold with a wrench).
Remove the shock (leave in the lower shock mount bracket), put the all thread through the shock mount locations, tighten it down, remove the lower-outer pin, then slowly loosen a nut on one end until the spring is loose. TOO EASY!
I've been rebuilding 49-54 pass car and 53-62 Vette frontends for about 45yrs and this is the method I was shown back in the 60s.
For a COMPLETE frontend rebuild, I have one engine stand that is dedicated for bolting a cross member to for teardown and rebuilding frontends.
ALL you need is to buy a 3ft length of 1/2in all thread, two washers and 2 nuts (I also add 2 nuts on one end of the all thread, locked together, to hold with a wrench).
Remove the shock (leave in the lower shock mount bracket), put the all thread through the shock mount locations, tighten it down, remove the lower-outer pin, then slowly loosen a nut on one end until the spring is loose. TOO EASY!
I've been rebuilding 49-54 pass car and 53-62 Vette frontends for about 45yrs and this is the method I was shown back in the 60s.
For a COMPLETE frontend rebuild, I have one engine stand that is dedicated for bolting a cross member to for teardown and rebuilding frontends.
Last edited by DZAUTO; Mar 16, 2008 at 12:22 PM.
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: May 2007
Posts: 357
Likes: 28
From: Northern AL
Thanks for the Info.
DZAuto, my assembly is still attached to the frame so I'm not sure how feasible it is to use a 3 foot rod; maybe easy if the assembly was off the frame. I have seen your postings before but figured this method was not applicable to my situation.
However, since you've been doing this for several years, have you come across better torque measurements for the lower inner pivot shaft? Service manual says 100-200 ft lbs. Seems pretty vague!
Bill,
The Service Manual definitely says ft/lbs. There is nothing I could find in the AIM identifying this specification.
Thanks
Jim
DZAuto, my assembly is still attached to the frame so I'm not sure how feasible it is to use a 3 foot rod; maybe easy if the assembly was off the frame. I have seen your postings before but figured this method was not applicable to my situation.
However, since you've been doing this for several years, have you come across better torque measurements for the lower inner pivot shaft? Service manual says 100-200 ft lbs. Seems pretty vague!
Bill,
The Service Manual definitely says ft/lbs. There is nothing I could find in the AIM identifying this specification.
Thanks
Jim
Melting Slicks
Joined: May 2000
Posts: 2,743
Likes: 146
From: Chuckanut WA
The torque values you are getting out of the ST-12 is not for the lower cross-shaft attaching bolts but rather for the lower control arm outer pivot bolt. I doesn't list a torque value for the attaching hardware. You can go on line and get the torque value for the appropriate size fastener, thread pitch, and grade. If memory serves me they are 3/8-24 grade 8 bolts. 
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From: Mustang OK
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Bill,
The length of all thread works just fine for on or off the car. Also, once you determine the maximum required lentgh for the all thread, you can cut off the excess if you wish. At the hardware stores, all thread is found in racks of 3ft lengths.
For the bolts you mention, I never use a specific torque. I simply tighten those by feel. For some bolts, it may require more or less torque between different bolts.
The only place I really use specific torque values is for engine assembly fasteners.
The length of all thread works just fine for on or off the car. Also, once you determine the maximum required lentgh for the all thread, you can cut off the excess if you wish. At the hardware stores, all thread is found in racks of 3ft lengths.
For the bolts you mention, I never use a specific torque. I simply tighten those by feel. For some bolts, it may require more or less torque between different bolts.
The only place I really use specific torque values is for engine assembly fasteners.
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Jim
Melting Slicks
Joined: Jul 2000
Posts: 2,097
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From: Boston MA
The ST12 method you reference will work just fine. But there's a better and safer way.
If you want a safety redundant method, use the threaded rod. There's an enormous amount of energy stored in that compressed spring. If that lets go, it'll do serious damage - to you, the garage, or, God forbid, the car. I found turning the nut on the threaded rod easier and it gave me more control than the floor jack.
If you want a safety redundant method, use the threaded rod. There's an enormous amount of energy stored in that compressed spring. If that lets go, it'll do serious damage - to you, the garage, or, God forbid, the car. I found turning the nut on the threaded rod easier and it gave me more control than the floor jack.