65 radiator
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 126
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From: Southern, Ontario
65 radiator
I purchased a New Dewitt direct fit back in the summer at Carlisle. If I painted it would it decrease its efficiency ??
What brand of paint would you recommend ?
I see some fan kits that mount directly to the core with plastic ties.
Could this type of mounting damage the radiator??
All your opinions are appreciated.
Peter
What brand of paint would you recommend ?
I see some fan kits that mount directly to the core with plastic ties.
Could this type of mounting damage the radiator??
All your opinions are appreciated.
Peter
Le Mans Master
Joined: Jul 2003
Posts: 6,808
Likes: 24
From: Westport CT
I purchased a New Dewitt direct fit back in the summer at Carlisle. If I painted it would it decrease its efficiency ??
What brand of paint would you recommend ?
I see some fan kits that mount directly to the core with plastic ties.
Could this type of mounting damage the radiator??
All your opinions are appreciated.
Peter
What brand of paint would you recommend ?
I see some fan kits that mount directly to the core with plastic ties.
Could this type of mounting damage the radiator??
All your opinions are appreciated.
Peter
Tech Contributor
Joined: May 2005
Posts: 15,576
Likes: 118
From: Conroe Texas
with Jackster.If your car is stock, you shouldn't have cooling issues that would warrant additional fans.
Now if you are wanting to go with electric fans to eliminate the mechanical drag from the original fan, that's another story.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 8,913
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The correct color is Gloss Black. A light coating should not effect function. There is also available through the usual corvette mags the correct Harrison foil decal that attaches to the top right side.
The fans are attached with zip ties, but they are a special type. They have a large circle at one end, and the slide lock is also a circle. There is also square foam pads that go between the zip tie circle ends and the radiator core.
Unless you have some exotic set up, I would stick with the stock clutch fan. JMO.
PS, when you install the radiator, make sure the rubber bushing on the bottom and top are in good shape, and the shroud does not touch the radiator. If it touches it may cause a vibration or cause an unwanted electrical ground.
Mark
The fans are attached with zip ties, but they are a special type. They have a large circle at one end, and the slide lock is also a circle. There is also square foam pads that go between the zip tie circle ends and the radiator core.
Unless you have some exotic set up, I would stick with the stock clutch fan. JMO.
PS, when you install the radiator, make sure the rubber bushing on the bottom and top are in good shape, and the shroud does not touch the radiator. If it touches it may cause a vibration or cause an unwanted electrical ground.
Mark
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 126
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From: Southern, Ontario
The car has a 300hp motor with Edelbrock cam, carb and intake.
The rad is copper with aux fan .It does not have a clutch fan but does have a flex fan. Fan shroud is not right either.
During hot summer days 85F plus it would run in the 180-190 range while moving. During stop and go traffic it would run 210-220F and the fan would kick in and keep it from over- heating.
Also had hard start problems from heat soak. I will use a spacer under the carb. Big discussion on fuel quality and ethenol %.
I'm replacing the fan shroud as well with the proper 63-65 . Do you think I need the electric aux fan ?? I would rather not use the aux fan .
The rad is copper with aux fan .It does not have a clutch fan but does have a flex fan. Fan shroud is not right either.
During hot summer days 85F plus it would run in the 180-190 range while moving. During stop and go traffic it would run 210-220F and the fan would kick in and keep it from over- heating.
Also had hard start problems from heat soak. I will use a spacer under the carb. Big discussion on fuel quality and ethenol %.
I'm replacing the fan shroud as well with the proper 63-65 . Do you think I need the electric aux fan ?? I would rather not use the aux fan .
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 126
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From: Southern, Ontario
I purchased one late in the season last year. I went for one hour drive in late october 65F. I let the car heat soak for 10min. in the garage and check for temps with IR gun. I found the carb to be about 145F the top rad hose close to thermostat housing around 190F but found the fuel filter that is mounted at the front of the motor by the head was 195F .
I need to have warmer ambient temps for the heat soak problems to appear. One time it took about 10 cranks before it started and stumbled for 45sec. I had to keep my foot on the accelerator to keep it from stalling, It did clear but it was about 100f that afternoon.
I need to have warmer ambient temps for the heat soak problems to appear. One time it took about 10 cranks before it started and stumbled for 45sec. I had to keep my foot on the accelerator to keep it from stalling, It did clear but it was about 100f that afternoon.
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Le Mans Master
Joined: Jan 2002
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A solution to the carb heat problem is to remove the intake and install an intake gasket with the heat passage block off plates. This of course assuming you do not drive your car in cold weather. I see that you are in Canada, so that may be a problem if you drive your car in late fall and over the winter.
The copper radiator is the problem with the over heating issue. The new radiator will fix that. I would toss that flex fan in the trash and get a stock 5 blade fan and a clutch for it. The correct shrouds are available as well.
This combo with a stock motor will be all that you ever need. Remember that 190-200 is normal. The T-stat (If a 180) only begins to open at 180.
Mark
The copper radiator is the problem with the over heating issue. The new radiator will fix that. I would toss that flex fan in the trash and get a stock 5 blade fan and a clutch for it. The correct shrouds are available as well.
This combo with a stock motor will be all that you ever need. Remember that 190-200 is normal. The T-stat (If a 180) only begins to open at 180.
Mark
Former Vendor
Joined: Jan 2000
Posts: 5,593
Likes: 631
From: Brighton
I purchased a New Dewitt direct fit back in the summer at Carlisle. If I painted it would it decrease its efficiency ?? What brand of paint would you recommend ?
I see some fan kits that mount directly to the core with plastic ties.
Could this type of mounting damage the radiator??
All your opinions are appreciated.
Peter
I see some fan kits that mount directly to the core with plastic ties.
Could this type of mounting damage the radiator??
All your opinions are appreciated.
Peter
Painting the Direct Fit is NOT going to affect the cooling however, not many paints will stick to the aluminum, in fact, I only know of one. The special two part epoxy that we use bonds real well. We have never sold this paint before but if there is a demand we would consider it. Keep in mind, we do offer a painting service (#333) for $30.
I do not recommend the zip ties for mounting fans! Aluminum is a pretty soft material and the cooling tubes are only .017" thick. Hanging a fan on the cooling tubes will eventually wear a hole in the tube. That's why all the fan mountings we offer use solid metal brackets of somekind.
You can get the Direct Fit model with a fan already mounting by ordering SP016 (63-72) or you can order that add-on kit SP004.
http://www.dewitts.com/pages/product...asp?ProdID=322
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From: Cape Cod, Mass.
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Not what you may want to hear, but if it were my car I would consider dumping/trading the copper radiator for one of Tom's aluminum radiators. I bought one for my 65 and it runs 180 all day long in summer heat on the open road or in traffic with a stock clutch fan. Why be bothered with all the hocus pocus auxilliary fans? Copper radiators simply don't transfer heat as well as aluminum. On days when the temps are over 70 degrees you will run too warm.
I see Tom posted as I was. I guess it's not copper/brass. Still don't like all the electric fans unless you NEED them for a radical motor.
I see Tom posted as I was. I guess it's not copper/brass. Still don't like all the electric fans unless you NEED them for a radical motor.
Last edited by capevettes; Mar 22, 2008 at 09:05 AM. Reason: Tom's pos
Former Vendor
Joined: Jan 2000
Posts: 5,593
Likes: 631
From: Brighton
A grounded radiator is not a problem, as long as you do not have an electrical short somewhere that would cause electrolysis. If you look at the way the 55-60 radiators are mounted, they are steel flange mounted, fully grounded to the frame. The original radiator was copper but thousands of aluminum radiators have taken their place without any problems. Another, maybe stronger case, to suport this theory is the 61-62 cars had aluminum expansion tanks mounted directly to the motor with metal brackets and zero insulation.
Former Vendor
Joined: Jan 2000
Posts: 5,593
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From: Brighton
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 126
Likes: 0
From: Southern, Ontario
62jeff ,Correct
To recap:
Install Dewitt direct fit unpainted (Tom would por15 work?)
locate and install clutch fan
Install correct 63-65 fan shroud with lower seal
Block cross over under intake manifold (This may have been done already)
install carb insulator 5/16 ", and use drop down base air filter and bango style fuel line as Paul 67 has done. Also change fuel filter position to on top of intake manifold ?
I have read in other posts about a sacrificial electrode. What is this and should I use it ??
To recap:
Install Dewitt direct fit unpainted (Tom would por15 work?)
locate and install clutch fan
Install correct 63-65 fan shroud with lower seal
Block cross over under intake manifold (This may have been done already)
install carb insulator 5/16 ", and use drop down base air filter and bango style fuel line as Paul 67 has done. Also change fuel filter position to on top of intake manifold ?
I have read in other posts about a sacrificial electrode. What is this and should I use it ??
Last edited by 6t5silver; Mar 22, 2008 at 11:23 AM.
Team Owner
Joined: Oct 2000
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From: Washington Michigan
Former Vendor
Joined: Jan 2000
Posts: 5,593
Likes: 631
From: Brighton
It might, I just haven't used it before. The biggest problem with all the paints is the new aluminum is very smooth and nothing sticks real well. If you really want the radiator black, I'd rough it up a little with a scotch bright pad on the top surface and the end tanks.
Tech Contributor
Joined: May 2005
Posts: 15,576
Likes: 118
From: Conroe Texas
People throw lots of money at cooling problems after deviating from stock. If the engine is basically stock (as in your case) then the stock cooling system should be ok if everything is working properly.
That having been said, my cooling system is completely stock, including a new DeWitt's restoration radiator. I have factory A/C, and have seen temps close to 200 in the middle of summer, stuck in traffic, with the A/C on. That that's not what I'd call a cooling problem.