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I just purchased a copy of your Powerglide video from your brother-in-law (Glassman) and watched all two hours of it last night in 6.1 digital surround (my wife thinks I'm nuts).
In spite of your opening remarks and apologies I think it was very well done. I would rename it "Powerglide for Dummies Like Me."
I purchased a rebuild kit a year ago and it came with the "banana gasket" with the built-in O-rings like you suggested, but it did not come with any seals, steel clips or anything else beyond just gaskets. Do you have a preference on a complete kit and who do you get it from?
By the way, the video was $49.95 delivered. I've worked on manual transmiisions and B&J Racing planetary transmissions but never an automotive automatic. Because of Roy's video I will be rebuilding my first Powerglide myself and I'm looking forward to it.
With the $1,800.00 I'm going to save I may take my wife out to a nice dinner.
I just purchased a copy of your Powerglide video from your brother-in-law (Glassman) and watched all two hours of it last night in 6.1 digital surround (my wife thinks I'm nuts).
In spite of your opening remarks and apologies I think it was very well done. I would rename it "Powerglide for Dummies Like Me."
I purchased a rebuild kit a year ago and it came with the "banana gasket" with the built-in O-rings like you suggested, but it did not come with any seals, steel clips or anything else beyond just gaskets. Do you have a preference on a complete kit and who do you get it from?
By the way, the video was $49.95 delivered. I've worked on manual transmiisions and B&J Racing planetary transmissions but never an automotive automatic. Because of Roy's video I will be rebuilding my first Powerglide myself and I'm looking forward to it.
With the $1,800.00 I'm going to save I may take my wife out to a nice dinner.
RG
I did that so many years ago that I now cant remember how to rebuild one! It don't cover everything just a simple rebuild which most trans need. It is crazy how much money a shop gets to restore one when it's so simple and the kit cost so little. You see the over haul kits on e-bay or a guy's add in the NCRS drive line mag.
Thanks for the nice comment !!
I checked out the date code numbers on the tranny. E-4-4 for the bellhousing and E-5-4 for the tranny section. One day apart. Now the bad news (which I discovered last night). The ear for the starter on the bellhousing section is cracked at the bellhousing section. Is this a common problem? A friend of mine has access to an excellent cast iron welder in the Redding area. Would you weld it or find another one? I hate to break up the pair since the dates are so close.
Here's me in the '57 driving into the John Force Christmas Car Show last year. I'm going to be selling it. It is an NCRS regional Top Flight car that runs like a champ but I'm scared to death to drive it so it sits with two car covers on it 99.9% of the time. The 1954, however, is going to be driven a LOT:
Last edited by Randy G.; Mar 23, 2008 at 12:40 PM.
I checked out the date code numbers on the tranny. E-4-4 for the bellhousing and E-5-4 for the tranny section. One day apart. Now the bad news (which I discovered last night). The ear for the starter on the bellhousing section is cracked at the bellhousing section. Is this a common problem? A friend of mine has access to an excellent cast iron welder in the Redding area. Would you weld it or find another one? I hate to break up the pair since the dates are so close.
Here's me in the '57 driving into the John Force Christmas Car Show last year. I'm going to be selling it. It is an NCRS regional Top Flight car that runs like a champ but I'm scared to death to drive it so it sits with two car covers on it 99.9% of the time. The 1954, however, is going to be driven a LOT:
I would weld it Or just install the bolt (not tight) . The other two will hold the starter OK . It's not the spacer that broke ? The starter end section -top area bolt some times has a cut FLAT area to clear the block, and some times people use the wrong starter end not cut causing stress on the trans bell housing .
That's the problem of restoring a Corvette ,then people are afraid to drive them , I understand that. But as soon as I restore my Corvettes I cant wait to drive them ,one week after doing our 55 Corvette we took a tripe to NY, and still drive it 30 years later and still got a top flight in 05.
By the way I have 20K to buy your
I would weld it Or just install the bolt (not tight) . The other two will hold the starter OK . It's not the spacer that broke ? The starter end section -top area bolt some times has a cut FLAT area to clear the block, and some times people use the wrong starter end not cut causing stress on the trans bell housing .
That's the problem of restoring a Corvette ,then people are afraid to drive them , I understand that. But as soon as I restore my Corvettes I cant wait to drive them ,one week after doing our 55 Corvette we took a tripe to NY, and still drive it 30 years later and still got a top flight in 05.
By the way I have 20K to buy your
Roy:
I've been all over the tranny with lights and mirrors as the transmission is still in the car. As far as I can see it's just the ear that's cracked. When we got it two years ago it was a working/driving 12V car. I am in the middle of converting it back to 6V because I want it to be as original.
To Roy Braatz.
Regarding my 1955 original Corvette VIN 18 :What do the metal rings on the ends of the spark plug mesh shielding attach to ? How does the rear of the bubble top attach to the body ?
Ray DeCesare
To Roy Braatz.
Regarding my 1955 original Corvette VIN 18 :What do the metal rings on the ends of the spark plug mesh shielding attach to ? How does the rear of the bubble top attach to the body ?
Ray DeCesare
there are four points that they are screwed to the Dist shielding grounding them
The repro wires look great but they have two problems
1 the ground shielding is to close to each end of the rubber boots causing the plug boots to start shorting when the rubber boots get hard from the engine heat
2 the inner wire is made of Carbon which will burn and not carry a true 12V using the older coils
After years of driving my 55 and replacing the wires three times at over $150 a set I realized the problem/// just using their shielding I replaced the wire , used 7 mill. wires having STEEL wire cord not CARBON also keeping the shielding 1inch back from the rubber boots .
OK now you can believe me (or) and what I did, which makes the engine run so great with more HP and no missing after years or keep them as they are if your a trailer queen
You can call me if you have problems installing the shielding at 530-265-2756
Again why dont they repro things RIGHT
Last edited by 1955 copper; Jul 22, 2016 at 11:55 AM.
I thought my oldtimer's disease was kicking in. I had do a double take on when I started this thread. Thankfully it was only 8 years ago, or I would have sworn I lost my mind.
Designer Imagines A Corvette That Looks More Like a Corvette Than the Corvette
Slideshow: A Jaguar designer's personal project imagines what a modern front-engined Corvette might look like if Chevrolet revisited the golden age of the Stingray.
Paging Roy Braatz:
It don't cover everything just a simple rebuild which most trans need. It is crazy how much money a shop gets to restore one when it's so simple and the kit cost so little. You see the over haul kits on e-bay or a guy's add in the NCRS drive line mag. .JPG)
