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I'm sure you'll have answered this a million times, but one more please. What kind of primer or sealer is best to use for spider webbing (or stress cracks) before painting.
A bodyshop friend was saying he thought there was some kind of spray that works great.
He hasn't worked on a 1960 so he wasn't sure what you pros would use
I've reported many times that I would use Cyanate glue, (Crazy Glue). It comes in different consistency and can be bought at any Hobby shop. So far no one has either challenged me or said they have tried it. I would open the stressed area by flexing it if possible and flood the cracks while they were open. (Thick glue). If I couldn't open the stressed area I would use a watery glue to flood deep down into the crack. Works quite well. The least alteration of a fibreglass panel is always desirable. Feather Fill is the product I used years back to close out binding's, seams and any rough surface areas on Corvette bodies. Feather Fill is still available as well as other good products. Check out the body work forums for more on this topic. Al W.
I've reported many times that I would use Cyanate glue, (Crazy Glue). It comes in different consistency and can be bought at any Hobby shop. So far no one has either challenged me or said they have tried it. I would open the stressed area by flexing it if possible and flood the cracks while they were open. (Thick glue). If I couldn't open the stressed area I would use a watery glue to flood deep down into the crack. Works quite well. The least alteration of a fibreglass panel is always desirable. Feather Fill is the product I used years back to close out binding's, seams and any rough surface areas on Corvette bodies. Feather Fill is still available as well as other good products. Check out the body work forums for more on this topic. Al W.
The crazy glue thing I have never tried, but Feather Fill will be disASter over old paint, especially highly metalic colors. I dont think there is anything other than proper repair that is a cure for stress cracks and crazed paint.
you are wasting your time and your money if you dont grind and glass the stress cracks they WILL come back in a day or a month, if your going to do the work do it right. Have you ever heard the saying no time to do it right the first time but time to do it a second! if you want to cheat weather you flood it with primer or use glue (does not work) when you start the buffing process the heat from your buff pad will bring them right back.
There is no way to repair lacquer checking but to remove the problem which is cracked paint. Some guys will try a Polyester Primer for a quick fix but the cracks will come back at some point in time. Better safe then sorry.
with the high cost of primers and paint, do it right and do a proper repair i.e. v out the crack and do a proper fiberglass repair. I don't see crazy glue doing the job!!! isocyanate glue only works on properly prepared surfaces that are then held together untill the glue cures. they will not fill gaps. I just don't see how they will work under this application.
I've reported many times that I would use Cyanate glue, (Crazy Glue). It comes in different consistency and can be bought at any Hobby shop. So far no one has either challenged me or said they have tried it. I would open the stressed area by flexing it if possible and flood the cracks while they were open. (Thick glue). If I couldn't open the stressed area I would use a watery glue to flood deep down into the crack. Works quite well. The least alteration of a fibreglass panel is always desirable. Feather Fill is the product I used years back to close out binding's, seams and any rough surface areas on Corvette bodies. Feather Fill is still available as well as other good products. Check out the body work forums for more on this topic. Al W.
I think it's called Slick Sand instead of Feather Fill. At least 5 or 6 years ago I could not find Feather Fill and my local Paint and body supply store told me Slick Sand replaced it.
I think it's called Slick Sand instead of Feather Fill. At least 5 or 6 years ago I could not find Feather Fill and my local Paint and body supply store told me Slick Sand replaced it.
Most likely the same product with more or different filler to make it sand easier. Either way I wouldnt use it over old paint. And, I have seen so much trouble with the Featherfill, I am reluctant to use a similar product.
Most likely the same product with more or different filler to make it sand easier. Either way I wouldnt use it over old paint. And, I have seen so much trouble with the Featherfill, I am reluctant to use a similar product.
Used Slick Sand on my glass 32 coupe after removing all paint. It filled small pinholes in the glass and gave me a good base for blocking the car. Have a closet full of trophies for the car. I liked it and never had any problems with it.
The crazy glue thing I have never tried, but Feather Fill will be disASter over old paint, especially highly metalic colors. I dont think there is anything other than proper repair that is a cure for stress cracks and crazed paint.
Absolutely correct. Slick Sand/Feather Fill are meant for applying to clean Fibre Glass and over Bondo only. Al W.
Gel coating- like Ecklers sells - use to many years ago be advertised as a fix for stress cracks. I would almost bet this is what your old-school buddy is remembering. Unfortunately this was mostly hype and most stress cracks will come back through it pretty quickly.
Absolutely correct. Slick Sand/Feather Fill are meant for applying to clean Fibre Glass and over Bondo only. Al W.
I agree totally, but, the label on the Featherfill, dont know about Slick Sand, stated that it was " to be used over old paint to fill sand scratches" etc. When this product first came out, based on this label recomendation, I used it on a couple of cars because my customers didnt want to spend the money for stripping. Guess who had to repaint the cars, including stripping? And, guess who said go F$%# yourself when asked for help with the cost?
only way to repair stress cracks is to grind out and repair with fresh glass .some cracks you can see a lighter area where it is cracked grind down till these areas are almost gone and reglass.the only cure for old nasty cracked /checked paint is to strip it .slicksand is what we use to prep the fiberglass and all bodywork before paint but any polyester based sprayabe primer would be good.like anything else seek a professional corvette body repair facility and not a regular bodyshop.
I agree totally, but, the label on the Featherfill, dont know about Slick Sand, stated that it was " to be used over old paint to fill sand scratches" etc. When this product first came out, based on this label recomendation, I used it on a couple of cars because my customers didnt want to spend the money for stripping. Guess who had to repaint the cars, including stripping? And, guess who said go F$%# yourself when asked for help with the cost?
It's been at least 25 years or more but I do remember I would only use Feather Fill with prior Lacquer surfaced cars and then I could go with either Lacquer or enamel. I've recently started to do a little body and paint work and am amazed how much has changed. No wonder we see the gorgeous deep shine paint jobs out there today. I'm redoing a 72 Cheyenne and can't wait to paint and polish out the two stage using Viper Red and Arctic White. Good Luck. Al W.
I used Slick Sand first because my local auto body supply store was out of Featherfill. Do not use Slick Sand, IMO. Use Featherfill only. I thinned Slick Sand according to manufacturers instructions with acetone, and she still flowed out terrible. Mine left a textured surface. It was a lot of work to break through the texture in order to level it out. Featherfill worked Fantastic everytime. Flowed beautiful everytime and sanded great. To me, Slick Sand does not live up it's name. Stay away from Slick Sand. And yes, you can wet sand polyester primer surfacers. Remember. RTFL Again RTFL DG