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Hi,
I have to change a kingpin and bushings on my '62.
Do I have to remove the drum assembly and backing plate?
In the ST 12 the instructions say to do it, but in the photo they appear to be removing the kingpin with the drum assembly still on the knuckle?
I replaced my kingpins / bushings, with backing plates on. I restored my brakes while the front end was off, so only plates were on. I set them on a 'Workmate" bench with the table split so the spindle could hang down and I had a flat surface to work on. It was a lot easier to do than I thought it would be.
No, you do not HAVE to remove them. But it would be less bulk to hassle with if you at least pull off the drum/hub and clean all the grease off of the spindle because the spindle makes an excellent handle to hold onto when manuvering parts.
Thanks for the great advice guys!
I had also saved some of your previous posts on the subject Tom, everything went as smooth as silk until I tried to put the new locking pin in. I thought I had everything lined up OK, but the last 1/4~3/8" of the pin wouldn't go in even after some good whacks. Now its jambed in there and I cant get it out. I'll regroup and try again in the morning.
Paul,
The kingpin has a flat in the center of it. This flat corrosponds with the flat on the lock bolt. You gotta have both lined up before installing the lock bolt (look through the hole in the spindle support to be sure you see the flat on the kingpin, then slip in the lock bolt).
If you have wedged the lock bolt in the spindle, it may take a few whacks with a heavy hammer/punch to drive it back out.
Let me know if you need more info.
Yea, I thought that I had correctly lined up the flat spot with the hole, I had even used a screwdriver through the hole to fine tune the alignment. It looked good, but the new pin just would'nt go the last 1/4"~3/8". The old one had been difficult to remove, so I figured it was normal that it should be tight. I gave it a few good wacks to drive it home, but no go.
The pin is now jambed in, and I've destroyed the threaded end trying to get it back out (I have another). I'll head back to the garage to see if I can make it any worse.
Paul
Last edited by Fawndeuce; Apr 13, 2008 at 12:06 PM.
I got it out!
I shortened and old punch that I had to get more swing room in the tight fenderwell confines, and used my Dremel to machine a little pocket for the punch in the mushed threaded end.
The pin was lined up on the flat area of the kingpin, but as you can see it really got hung-up? Any ideas as to why this happened? I don't want to repeat the same mistake...
Paul,
1. Do you have another lock bolt?
2. Did you mix the old lock bolt with a new kingpin, or vice versa? The flats in a new kingpin/lock bolt may be a different dimension and if you mix them, they may not be compatable.
3. If the flat on the kingpin is not lined up straight with the hole, the flat on the lock bolt may not be able to line up with it as it should.
If this last one should possibly be the case, I have a long, very skinny punch that I put into the hole and tap it to get the flat on the kingpin turned and lined up properly.
Thanks for all the help Tom, I got it all buttoned back up.
Through process of elimination, the problem appears to have been with one of the two kingpins in the kit. It looks like one of them was a couple of thou off in the flat area? Just glad it I was able to get it back together OK.
One last question; what is the torque rating for the nut on the lock pin?
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