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Bubba fix or factory?

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Old Apr 16, 2008 | 08:35 PM
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Default Bubba fix or factory?

First time I have seen this.
Creative alternative to screw in studs or did some of the 202's come this way?

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Old Apr 16, 2008 | 08:40 PM
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aaahhhhhhhh................. now that's a new one.

maybe the result of an alien abduction.
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Old Apr 16, 2008 | 08:42 PM
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Originally Posted by richbopp
aaahhhhhhhh................. now that's a new one.

maybe the result of an alien abduction.
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Old Apr 16, 2008 | 08:47 PM
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Pete,
Either you are really young (under 50), or, I'm really showing my age (your guess).
This is (or was) a really common way to secure pressed-in rocker arm studs.
It is kind of generally accepted that cams with greater than a .450 lift can cause the stock pressed-in studs to pull out. Especially on engines that are frequently pushed hard.
So, we went to the local speed shop and bought a stud pin kit which consisted of 16 pins and a drill bit.
Drill through the stud boss and into the stud, then knock in the pin. You now had "pinned" studs. The option was screw-in studs. There was also a kit for those also (I still have some of both).

Soooooooooooooooooo, what did you do when the stud went bad (broke off or the threads became bad)? That was never considered as a possibility.
Someone probably pinned those studs 30-40yrs ago.

NOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOO, that is NOT a bubba fix. That was a genuinly common mod, sold by ALL the speed shops.

Now, is no one going to admit to remembering or doing this?????????????

Last edited by DZAUTO; Apr 16, 2008 at 08:49 PM.
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Old Apr 16, 2008 | 09:02 PM
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Originally Posted by DZAUTO
Pete,
Either you are really young (under 50), or, I'm really showing my age (your guess).
This is (or was) a really common way to secure pressed-in rocker arm studs.
It is kind of generally accepted that cams with greater than a .450 lift can cause the stock pressed-in studs to pull out. Especially on engines that are frequently pushed hard.
So, we went to the local speed shop and bought a stud pin kit which consisted of 16 pins and a drill bit.
Drill through the stud boss and into the stud, then knock in the pin. You now had "pinned" studs. The option was screw-in studs. There was also a kit for those also (I still have some of both).

Soooooooooooooooooo, what did you do when the stud went bad (broke off or the threads became bad)? That was never considered as a possibility.
Someone probably pinned those studs 30-40yrs ago.

NOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOO, that is NOT a bubba fix. That was a genuinly common mod, sold by ALL the speed shops.

Now, is no one going to admit to remembering or doing this?????????????
Did that back in 1959, except we placed the pin off to one side so that a minimum of material was removed from the stud for strength. Was running a Isky 7000T cam, shifting at 8500 RPM. 283 +.125 overbore for 301 ci.
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Old Apr 16, 2008 | 09:10 PM
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Originally Posted by DZAUTO
Pete,
Either you are really young (under 50), or, I'm really showing my age (your guess).
This is (or was) a really common way to secure pressed-in rocker arm studs.
It is kind of generally accepted that cams with greater than a .450 lift can cause the stock pressed-in studs to pull out. Especially on engines that are frequently pushed hard.
So, we went to the local speed shop and bought a stud pin kit which consisted of 16 pins and a drill bit.
Drill through the stud boss and into the stud, then knock in the pin. You now had "pinned" studs. The option was screw-in studs. There was also a kit for those also (I still have some of both).

Soooooooooooooooooo, what did you do when the stud went bad (broke off or the threads became bad)? That was never considered as a possibility.
Someone probably pinned those studs 30-40yrs ago.

NOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOO, that is NOT a bubba fix. That was a genuinly common mod, sold by ALL the speed shops.

Now, is no one going to admit to remembering or doing this?????????????
I admit to it LOTS of times. When people couldn't afford the screw in stud mod (especially with those expensive push rod guide plates and the cost to machine the stud bosses down) the alternative was to pin the studs.

Probably did 50 sets or more back in the old days. Had to remove the pins on a couple when the studs sheared off. Just remove the valve spring and valve and drive the roll pin out. Drive the new stud in, re-drill the stud and install a new pin. Back in business.

Rich
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Old Apr 16, 2008 | 09:12 PM
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Originally Posted by DZAUTO

Now, is no one going to admit to remembering or doing this?????????????


Guilty!! Except I drilled the hole all the way through and used a roll pin in case it ever had to be changed. Very common practice , even today, on low budget circle track cars.
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Old Apr 16, 2008 | 09:13 PM
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I pinned a set of heads in '65. I still run them. I didn't use solid pins like the picture. I used expansion pins which are hollow. You can pull them back out, unlike those solid ones. I've never had a problem with them but I've never run anything except a Chevy cam.
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Old Apr 16, 2008 | 09:14 PM
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Oh boy, do I remember when. Al W.
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Old Apr 16, 2008 | 09:39 PM
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Tom
Grey hairs older than you at Creitz Automotive in Tulsa in the 50's were using used needle bearings out of U joints to pin the studs. GM during the year 62 went from non pinned to pinned studs on the 409 engines. They had also gone to a wilder cam with different exhaust pushrods during the time period.
Regards
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Old Apr 16, 2008 | 10:25 PM
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Originally Posted by buns
Guilty!! Except I drilled the hole all the way through and used a roll pin in case it ever had to be changed. Very common practice , even today, on low budget circle track cars.
Guilty as well (with drilling all the way through and using roll pins).

Plasticman
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Old Apr 16, 2008 | 10:51 PM
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I remember the owner of a 63 Chevy F/S at Niagara Dragway telling me he has a stock 327/250 and the dealer was giving him a hard time about the studs coming loose (under warranty). He was beginning to wish he Got the 327/300 for E/S instead, because the 300hp engine came with pinned studs. True or not?
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Old Apr 16, 2008 | 11:43 PM
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Originally Posted by magicv8
I remember the owner of a 63 Chevy F/S at Niagara Dragway telling me he has a stock 327/250 and the dealer was giving him a hard time about the studs coming loose (under warranty). He was beginning to wish he Got the 327/300 for E/S instead, because the 300hp engine came with pinned studs. True or not?
NOPE!
There was never a FACTORY SB with pinned studs. Screw in studs? Yes, but not pinned!
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Old Apr 17, 2008 | 12:31 AM
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yep, I did that in 1966 to many sets of heads. I am pretty sure screw in studs came did not come out until maybe 2 years later. I still have my gasser heads and my buddy wants to buy , but I fear he will go too fast in our group of racers.


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Old Apr 17, 2008 | 03:14 AM
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Originally Posted by DZAUTO
Pete,
Either you are really young (under 50), or, I'm really showing my age (your guess).
This is (or was) a really common way to secure pressed-in rocker arm studs.
It is kind of generally accepted that cams with greater than a .450 lift can cause the stock pressed-in studs to pull out. Especially on engines that are frequently pushed hard.
So, we went to the local speed shop and bought a stud pin kit which consisted of 16 pins and a drill bit.
Drill through the stud boss and into the stud, then knock in the pin. You now had "pinned" studs. The option was screw-in studs. There was also a kit for those also (I still have some of both).

Soooooooooooooooooo, what did you do when the stud went bad (broke off or the threads became bad)? That was never considered as a possibility.
Someone probably pinned those studs 30-40yrs ago.

NOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOO, that is NOT a bubba fix. That was a genuinly common mod, sold by ALL the speed shops.

Now, is no one going to admit to remembering or doing this?????????????
Well, Im not that young, turned 50 last fall.

Guess it was a pretty common mod back in the day?
Good to hear.

Thanks guys.
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Old Apr 17, 2008 | 04:08 AM
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Originally Posted by Chicago Pete
Well, Im not that young, turned 50 last fall.

Guess it was a pretty common mod back in the day?
Yup. Any poor boy with a drill press, drill bit and hammer could pin studs. Drilling and tapping for screw in studs was expensive machine shop stuff. I mean, they might have charged you $16 a head or so to drill and tap all the stud holes, plus another buck or so per stud for the screw in studs.

Doug
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Old Apr 17, 2008 | 06:31 AM
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What's with all the comments about 50 not being young and the grey-hair comments? Geesh.....your not old until you're a blue hair.
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Old Apr 17, 2008 | 08:25 AM
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Roll pins might have been a good idea- we used the solid and never had anything break to require removal. Still a good low cost way to go.
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Old Apr 17, 2008 | 09:02 AM
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Originally Posted by ejboyd5
Roll pins might have been a good idea- we used the solid and never had anything break to require removal. Still a good low cost way to go.
Nothing whatsoever wrong with the solid pins. But as I remember (and that's becoming more of a challenge), the KITS came with roll pins.
Some people drilled all the way through the boss, and some didn't. If the hole was drilled all the way through, then the pin could be knocked out much more easily if need be.
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Old Apr 17, 2008 | 09:42 AM
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Done many of them back in the day, only used replacment screw in studs without the hex, threaded the bosses, installed the studs then pinned them.
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